Getting there on the Money Pit.

[6pak]

:mo money:I realize now that I paid nearly twice what I should have for this bike, but there's no turning back now. The clutch is finally right, and the brakes are finally right. Even got venturecruise working. If I had looked at E-bay b4 purchase, I could have added about another grand and had a real nice ride. Oh, well-It's only money:crying:. Anyhow, on to the next project. I noticed that the fork seals are leaking pretty good. Almost to the point of why bother to wash it b4 riding. When I pull it apart, is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? Also, anybody got any idea how bad I'll get burnt by the stealer on parts?

By the way, had to go to advance auto parts and rent a vacuum pump to pull all the air out of hydro line for clutch.

[muffinman]

Fork seals are around $10 at the dealer I have replaced 3 sets in the last 24 months and it is a fairly easy process. Give me a call and we can talk you through it my dealer gave me a short cut that makes it a 30 min to 1 hour job

Jeff

2524269691

[FROG MAN]

Jeff I would like to know that short cut. I replaced mine last year and there still leaking bad. I may have got a bad set. I'm getting ready to pull the front wheel, clean up the brakes which are saturated with fork fluid and install my new front tire. This is on my 84. What weight fork fluid should I use?

[Stanman]

The service manager at the dealer told me changing fork oil seals without also changing the dust seals is a waste of time and money. He said they used to change oil seals only for customers to try to save them some money but found the oil leak reappeared every year. They decided to do the dust seals at the same time and found the repair lasted much longer. This was evident on all bikes and not model specific.

Hope this info is useful.

 

[Gearhead]

Jeff - I need that tip! Please???

 

Stanman - Interesting. I've never replaced a dust boot but had varying success with the longevity of the new seals. Maybe that's why.

 

Frogman - I like to stick with stock 10 weight unless I have a compelling reason to do otherwise. Once upon a time on another bike I put in heavier oil just because, and the ride was harsh. Replaced with factory weight and the ride smoothed out. Progressive Suspension generally recommends factory weight oil. I guess the factory knows what they're doing!

 

Trucker - what did you do to stop the clutch slippage? Aftermarket seals are available for a little less dough but I think factory ones may last longer. I have just a little evidence for this, but not conclusive. Some recommend replacing the bushings in there too, probably not necessary but not a bad thing. I think they run around $10 each and there 4 total - an upper and lower in each fork. There is an ongoing thread by Slipstreamer on this job, and a post from a while back from, oh, maybe GeorgeS with pictures of the job.

 

Oh, one very key thing for lasting for seals is to check the tube over the distance that the seal travels on for nicks and burrs. Rocks sometimes cause a pit with an adjacent burr. The pit itself isn't a problem, but you gotta take the burr off with emory cloth. Dried bugs are also a big killer for fork seals. Either install boots or clean the bugs off every fillup to extend life.

 

Jeremy

[muffinman]

Ok here is how I was told to do fork seals from my dealer.First remove the small screw on the outside of the forks to drain the oil ( it is under pressure so release the pressure slowly) then pull the tire,fender,fork brace. Then remove the 10mm bolt from the bottom of the forks lift the dust seal and remove the snap ring then use the lower fork tube like a slide hammer to remove it from the upper tube.pay attention to the small cup and spring washer that holds it in place to reinstallation. after the lower tube is off go ahead and pull the top caps then reverse to install all the parts take about 15 to 20 min per fork depending on how you work.

All of this is done with bike on center stand.

I use 8W fork oil in my bikes.

Jeff

[Gearhead]

Jeff, do you then remove the lower bushing and carefully slide the seal over the lower end of the fork tube? How do you drive the new seal into its bore?

 

Jeremy

[Cutty]

On your fork seals repair, pull the forks off the bike make a work area so you can look at every part to see what needs to be replaced. Roll your forks to see if they're not bent and not pitted in the seal area. I really don't like the Leak Proof seals, check with an indy shop or dealer for others. When installing the seals i cover the top of the fork with wax paper or thin plastic bag to protect the sealing lips on the seals, along with lubing the inside of the seals and sliding the protector down the tube to the sealing area on the fork. Progressive springs have served well and saving that grand will make your chest stick out farther and the ride even better.