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megablok

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Posts posted by megablok

  1. The turn signals of my 2006 RSTD have stopped working.  I have checked the fusebox on the left side and the 15A fuse is intact. When I turn on the signals, I hear a faint "click" sound in the battery area the first time, but it does not make any sounds if I cancel the turn signal and turn it on again.  

    I would appreciate any suggestions or similar experiences you may have had and how you fixed it.

    Thank you.

    -Morgan

  2. On 10/25/2021 at 8:12 PM, Marcarl said:

    So going by what you just said, noise is there with the engine running but when you turn off the ignition and then the ignition back on again the noise continues with the engine off. It almost has to be electrical, and I say almost because strange things happen in this world.

    Yes. 😂 at "almost". I don't know where to start the diagnosis.

    These are the questions that come to my mind:

    Why that noise only when the engine is idling and not when running? Is it a TPS problem?

    Why does it continue to doing that when the ignition is turned back on without the engine running - is it something mechanical in the carb that is not installed correctly?

    I changed the float needle/ filter on the front-right carb. It appears to be coming from there. Is it the float?

    Never seen this problem before.....

  3. On 10/21/2021 at 11:06 AM, Marcarl said:

    So does this sound happen when the engine is running, or when it's off, or both.

    If it happens when the engine is off it has to be electrical, so then it's time to chase down the circuits.

    The noise does not start in cold start or when its running.  It only starts while idling.  I turn the mc off immediately when that happens.  If I turn on the ignition immediately after (without starting the engine), the noise starts up again.  If it let it rest for 10 mins or so, there is no noise - only the standard whirring.

    Dont know what this is....

  4. Also, the noise does not occur while riding. It starts only when the mc is idling and goes away if I turn it off and let it rest for about 15 mins. 

    It started when I tried to further balance the carbs (flat head screw) and really fine tune it.  This noise starts when the idling goes down while tuning the carbs. I'm just not sure what is causing it.

    IMG_20211020_191205.jpg

  5. 39 minutes ago, saddlebum said:

    Hard to tell on the video but it almost sounds like the starter is running on or hanging up. Instead of using the key to crank the engine try shorting across the two big studs on the solenoid to crank the starter and see if you still get that noise. If not you may have a sticking solenoid. This can happen when the contacts inside the solenoid get pitted and as a result they sort of temporarily weld themselves together after a few seconds that weld point gets red hot and the points break apart again.

    If it still make a noise when shorting across the solenoid the other possibility is a faulty starter sprag clutch or starter gears the sound would be coming from the area of the stator

    Thank you. I will have to locate these items on the mc to find out where they are. Will take some work.

  6. 3 hours ago, Marcarl said:

    It might be helpful to determine where the sound is coming from exactly, front of engine, back of engine, upper, lower, etc.

    Another approach would be to remove fuses one at a time to discover the circuit that is causing it, and then hopefully trace it closer to the point.

    Also removing the gas tank and/or seat might help you to locate it.

    Thank you. I will try that. On a side note, the turn signals are no longer working. I wonder if these two are connected in some way....

     

  7. Based on the suggestions here, I took the carbs off and closely inspected them again.  Found the following issues:

    1. The Joint Air Cleaner 2 (4XY-14463-00-00) was damaged. (have ordered a new part.  Its coming in next week.  
    2. Two of the four Joint Air Cleaner 1 (4XY-14453-00-00) were damaged.  I have received the new part. Thank you @RDawson for the suggestion.
    3. The Stop Screw set springs (4KM-1490K-00-00) were damaged when I reassembled the carbs (ugh).  I have received the new part.  Thank you @Freebird for the suggestion.  

    @RDawson, the choke enrichers feel mushy when I pull on the choke know.  They are engaged fully.  Is that what it feels like when cleaned?  It used to be really tight before cleaning.

    @RDawson.  I am replacing two of them (item 2)  - I have included a picture.  I am not sure if this is a problem.  But since it appears worn, I am replacing them.

    @Marcarl, when I adjusted the sync screws before installing it on the mcycle, the butterfly on carb 1 seems more open than the others.  I thought it will get handled during sync when the engine is running.  I am going to separate the carbs one more time and reassemble them carefully and see if it works.  Maybe I missed something.  

    I plan to  sync the carbs again next weekend after I have all the parts and post the updates again.  

     

    4KM1490K00.jpg

    Jt_Cleaner_1.jpg

    s-l1600 (4)_edited.jpg

  8. I have an '06 RSTD. Recently, I separated the carbs, cleaned them and rebuilt it. However, I'm unable to sync the carbs because it's not been possible to reduce the idling RPM. 

    With the carbs reassembled, and off the mcycle, I first adjusted Philips stop screw #1 between carbs 1&2 and Philips screw #2 between carbs 3&4. After that, I adjusted the flathead screw and visually synced the butterfly opening between carb banks 1&2 and 3&4. I do this generally to get to a good starting point to do final adjustments using Carbtune. Also, adjusting the #3 shows how close the TPS can get to idling screw. 

    However, I'm unable to get the RPMs down to the 1000 range. 

    I would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you. 

     

    Thanks to the members for these excellent articles:

     

     

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