maddog2498

Thank you. Do I have to remove the air box to just change the rear gasket.

I have talked to Mr. T. He had 325k on his RSV last time I talked to him. He told me several times, adjust the valves around 40k and never worry with them again. I had mine adjusted at 70 and new gaskets, carb boots. I now have 137k and have another oil leak. I seems to be on the back covers. I have not tried, because, not sure how much is involved changing gaskets.

I got 136kon my 2002 rsv, changed plugs at 70k, only because I was in there putting valve cover gaskets on, stills runs great

Nebraska_Man1949 Dave rebuilt one I had. I bought a used one at a salvage yard last year. Do you still have the Schock

Can I tighten the valve cover to stop the leak???? Thank you.

I give up.

I hooked my vacuum to the bleeder and took line loose at master cylinder, and it pulled a vacuum on my finger. It is open. I took MC off and went back in to make sure seals were correct, had a friend look also, they were correct. We fill the MC with fluid the best we could and filled the reservoir down to MC the best we could and connected lines. Still can not get a pedal. Tried reverse fill with a large tube like a syringe all while working the brake pedal. Tried reverse fill again. Still cannot get a pedal. I have now tied the brake pedal all the way down and will leave overnight. (old trick). I also beat and vibrated the brake lines from MC back to caliber especially where the line has high spots. If This does not help, I plan to take it to someone that is supposed to know. Has anybody else had this problem bleeding the venture?????

OK, I rebuilt the master cylinder and reinstalled. Can not get to pump back up. I tried to use a vacuum bleeder and got some fluid to go down some in the reservoir, but can not get any more to go down, all while holding vacuum on the bleeder. Tried pumping the pedal slowly with vacuum, still not fluid going down. I tried a 1 man bleeder that I just purchased and can not get fluid at bleeder valve at rear brake. I'm at my wits end. Any advice and help will be appreciated. . Tomorrow I will try reverse bleeding by using a big syringe that I bought a Orileys. Hope thar helps. Thank you in advance

I use dot 4

I have 135000 on my rsv and last been about 70000 since I changed. Bike still runs good, what is best plug and what best gap.

I get from 33 to 52 mpg. According to how hard I ride.

Yes, open and close like always when doing a car. I did not know if there was a problem with an air bubble like I had on my gold wing clutch. It seems like it should be easy, but my brake got worse every time I changed my rear tire.

OK. I drained and ran new DOT synthetic fluid today. Still can not get full pedal. Rode the bike and it will not slide tire on dirt road. Looks like there is still air coming out while using the vacuum pump. Why is that? Is there a trick to bleeding to get air out. As I said every time I change a tire off, my brake pedal got softer. I have fluid coming using my vacuum bleeder, but it still looks like air bubbles coming into line from the bleeder valve. I took bleeder valve out and put thread tape on, replaced and still looks that way. I have never done brakes other than pump and bleed on cars. Is there sometime I am over looking or a trick to bleed. I read somewhere about someone using what they called reverse bleeding, where you force fluid back into the reservoir thur the bleeder valve. I'm at my wits end. Any suggestions will be appreciated. If you know of anyone on here that could help. Thank you in advance.

Blue sky, thank you for your post. I'm having same problem. 2002 RSV 135k miles. Every time I change a rear tire, my brakes got worse. Now will not slide tire on dirt. I just used my vacuum pump to change all fluid and still looks like bubbles coming into the clear line. I have run about 4 or 5 oz thur it. Any other advice. I have never rebuilt a master cylinder. Thank you.

Did he rebuild it??? Did it correct the problem??? thank you