jonsmyth
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Posts posted by jonsmyth
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I bought an expensive Metzler tire for my rear end. It has about 1500 miles on it. I noticed it has some weird wear on the ends of the tread patterns that are unique to this tire... Maybe it is a design flaw.
I have run it with the reccommended 32 lbs the whole time....
Thanks!
[ATTACH]38355[/ATTACH]
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Guys! I removed my rear wheel. I cleaned all the old grease off. I applied the Honda 60 Moly. I pulled the pumpkin, and the driveshaft. The driveshaft was bone DRY on the engine end, but not damaged. Some wear, but looked ok. A little wet on the pumpkin end- guess my seal is rotten. I liberally applied the moly on both ends. I pulled the cir-clip off the rear wheel and the dampner pins were BONE DRY, some surface rust, but not pitting. I lubed all of them.
I reassembled the whole kabudle and tested it at 85mph. NO Roar! All I could hear when I pulled in the clutch was WIND! There is a tiny bit of whine (barely audible at 55 and about 35 mph). All I hear is the slight muffle of exhaust coming through my worn out sleeves on the mufflers where they meet the pipes. I even love hearing the chirping!
I can't believe how this worked out, You People are AMAZING....
Great Balls of Fire- THANKS!!!!!
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I got the posts and write-ups here on the site about greasing the splines and dampers under the circlip on the rear wheel. I have it all torn down here while the hurricane is overhead. I got Honda moly 60 lube. While in here lubing it, should I go ahead and pull the driveshaft so I can moly the driveshaft and u-joint? My '87 has 87,000 miles on it and I bet the shaft has never been serviced...
Thanks to all!
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Is there a replacement (aftermarket) available?
Thanks!
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Is there an after market cdi available. Seems I saw one on here- for first gens...
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I pulled the clutch as was described in Fred's excellent post, and scrubbed the hell out of the fiber plates with a wire brush untill the glaze was gone, all disks were within tolerance as inspection with a micrometer (thanks to autozone).
I wonder how long it will take to glaze again...
The coca cola in the hydraulic lines was bled out until it ran clear with new fluid. Now my Blondie can't wait to pass cars going 60, and the clutch action feels to the hand as crisp as I'd imagine a new bike (don't know, never had one).
You old farts rock!
Oh, wait, I'm and old fart, too. I ferget.
Next: change coca cola out of the brake lines!
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How bad is it? When at highway speeds (50 or above) and I gun it to pass, the clutch slips for a few seconds. Please tell me this can be adjusted "out"!
1987 Y. Venture Royale, 87,000 mi. 215 lb. payload. Recent oil change using oil designed for motorcycle wet clutches at $3 a quart from autozone (Valvoline I think)
Is a clutch job a huge deal? Can I do it without a bunch of specialty tools? Some previous posts talk about Heavy Duty springs or an oil fix.
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Wow. It could be a speedo cable. I just lubed it not long ago and it didn't completely go silent...I lubed it with jiggabo (oil) not graphite spray.
As for the pins...I defineately did not clean and lube them....So I will when i tear it down.
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My 1987 VR has 87,000 miles on it. The rear end definately roars at anything above 45mph. When you pull in the clutch at 60mph, you realize the roar is almost as loud as the engine, especially when turning. My tires are new, and the bike is running good, with no lurching, or anomalies when cornering. I greased the rear splines myself when I changed the rear tire only 3000 miles ago, but i can tell you it was not moly 60 grease by honda or moly paste. I intend on pulling the rear wheel and applying moly as my first step, then weigh out changing out the pumpkin. I'm not going to rebuild it- it is just too complex for me or my tool and skill set. i'll probably get a used one with 30k on it or something.
How quiet are rear ends in perfect order? I have no way of evaluating this!
As always, thanks!
Old Man going down Mexico way....
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I have not let it go into the red yet. I'll see if the fan does it...Thanks
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My 87 starts to get real warm if i let it idle more than a few minutes. Of course, it's been hot here in Florida, but still. I just cleaned out a bunch of gunk, flushed and filled the radiator a month ago.
ideas?
Thanks, guys (and er, gals!)
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No matter what you take it'll probably not be what you need if you have a problem.
If it were me, I'd make sure all my maintenance was caught up before the trip. Then I'd take a few basics:
- Some 16 gauge wire
- Wire nuts
- Electrical tape
- A tube for each tire
- Replacement headlamp bulb
- Fuses (although they should always be in there!)
- Basic tool kit (should always be there too!)
- MasterCard
I gotta believe that 1156 and 1157 bulbs are plentiful in Mexico, but you could throw some in for convenience.
Have a nice trip!
So there are wally worlds in every big mexican city i'm told....
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Stator & gasket goop .......ask me how I know..........LOL:canada:
This is the biggest fear- a stator means a complete rebuild. I think I'd just dixie cup it and take a bus to Nuevo Loredo!
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I'm goin to tacoland for several months on my antique. What old bike parrts fail the most? I know it's the one you are not carrying!
My guess- a TCI, starter and relay, fuel pump. There is a limit!
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I may need to replace a sometimes flakey turn signal cancel unit- not the relay itself. Mine is a 1987 modelbut others may work.
Thanks!
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I just had complete turn signal failure after pulling both fairings off my bike. Trying to make sense of the poor quality black and white schematics in the manual, with the numberized components made me crazy flipping back and forth between pages. So I brought it into photoshop and colored the wires. It helped. I found the trouble was a brown wire on the harness that goes to the hazard switch had been pulled out of its plastic connector and did not not make contact when i plugged the quick disconnect back together. Thus it was if I left the switch between "hazard" and "off" positions. The terminal had some beginning oxidation so I applied dielectric grease to help. The signals work now, but the self canceling works 90% of the time, as sometimes i have to hold the left right selector to keep the signal going. I think the self-canceling unit has issues. So do most 20 year olds i know!
Admin- move to another category if you wish!
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and I like it...The thing is affixed with a large pad of hook and loop. I did not have to strech or move cables. It is only a slight inconvenience to remove for air filter access.
My 2 cents...
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I had my 87 apart for over two weeks. There is a green two pin quick connector that has two wires- brown (or chocolate?) and white and black and white. The connector emerges from the wiring harness along the left side just above a point halfway between the radiator and the front left (as you sit on the bike) cylinder (no. 2).
The manual indicates this may be part of the turn signal circuit, which is not functioning since I put it back together.
I am trying to diagnose my turn signals not working and wonder if I'm missing something.
The turn signals are DOA.
Thanks You guys!
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When I replaced the diaphragms, I did not seat them well and two came off. I built a little plastic tool to spread the seal, then worked each one around until they were all very tight. I get the concept now- no leakage!
Bike is running smooth at 1000 rpm and hitting smooth on all cylinders.
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I changed all my diaphragms yesterday. I also moved the circlip on the throttle jet up one notch away from the needle to lean it out. I did this on all carbs. At several points, I stopped and started the bike. It sounded OK. It idled OK.
Today, I decide to change the spark plugs so I can evaluate the new mixture- and discover #2 cylinder spark plug cap was dangleing on the other side so it was idleing on 3 cylinders.
I go ahead and finish changing and gapping all the plugs.
The dang thing races at 2200 rpm or higher, no matter where I put the screw.
The trottle cable is disconnected, as it broke and I got the new cable this afternoon so have not put it on yet.
No, the choke is not on. The linkages seem to all be functioning.
I do not see any loose vacuum hoses- but i know a leak may be part of it.
What to do? I can't sync carbs like this!
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But there is lots of black carbon in the recesses. One article said you really need to look in the nooks and crannies. I think the mixture is way too rich. I leaned out the needles and replaced 3 of the 4 diaphragms.
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Bike has been getting poor gas mileage. Black tailpipe. I just added new diaphragms. Should I put in new plugs, or keep these and re-evaluate in a hundred miles?
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I just had my windshield off, so I mounted my old gps mount (which had a defective sucker) by drilling 4 tiny holes in the base and affixing it to the dashboard. I initially was going to mount it over where the old cb was, but i think i would encounter a lot of glare there. Seeing it on top of the dash means i will not have to avert my glance far which is a huge bonus. I'll post a pic if you wish!
Amazing! Loud Howl in rear end totally GONE
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
I love it when I can be anything or any age on line. I'm not even a man. I'm actually a very intelligent dog.