rrod1393
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Posts posted by rrod1393
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What brake pads do you have. The HH do have a lot more grip. I have to hit the rear really hard to get lock up, but you really do not want to lock brakes on a bike. I played with the peddle height to get the rear braking to be just shy of lock up. I have to make an effort to get lock, so that I am unlikely to lock the rear in a panic stop.
Really not sure of the manufacturer of the pads as they were the one that were on the bike when I got them. They have lots of life left on them. I will try to bleed the brake again (I feel like I've already done an extensive bleed on these damn things). Maybe I'll take off the caliper and hang it higher than the mount so air runs to the bleeder or I'll try reverse bleeding. Then I will adjust the pedal to where the brakes come on sooner in the pedal travel. Im a big user of rear brakes especially in slow speed maneuvers.
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This is the proportioning valve correct? I removed it and put the brake line into its socket. Capped where the front line goes. As it rides now, I dont think I could lock up the rear wheel. I've pulled the caliper and did a good cleaning but did not get new seals. I guess I still have some air in the lines.
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Well, if it's the original brake line, you'll definitely need a longer line to move the connection. But you should probably replace the rubber hoses anyway due to age and deterioration. That is if you have an '83 with the same rear MC as I do anyway. My rear MC is significantly different in configuration than the diagram in the service manual depicts.
My question to any who have de-linked is why not remove the proportioning valve and tie directly into the MC without the valve?
I think thats what people have recommended on this forum.
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The next project is the rear brakes. When I purchased the bike, the brakes were delinked which is how I prefer. Previous owner just left all the lines, including the soft line to the left caliper just capped and wire tied to the front fork. After removing all the front brake lines that connect to the rear MC, adding fresh fluid and bleeding the brakes, I still have a soft weak rear brake. I read that guys have recommended connecting the rear banjo line to where the front line was connected on the MC for better breaking pressure. This I have not tried but will. My question is can I use the OEM rear brake line or do I have to get a longer one to make the connection?
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Took it for a ride and the cruise control worked!! Thank you. Still so many more little things to work on...
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So for future: If you had said it got warm or buzzed I would have suggested pickling it!
I use Deepcreep for this in a jar let it pickle for a day or more.
When there's nothing to loose, step away from the box and get creative.
Looks like somehow you have it back together, nice!
who knows for how long........ as long as I can get the CC working, I will know where to look if it stops working. one step.
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Nope it did not buzz and didn't notice it heat up but I didn't leave it on for more than a couple seconds.
I opened up the solenoid which was a pain. I found that everything looked okay and it was just a corroded around the moving parts (spring and plunger). I stuck a rolled up 220 sand paper inside and cleaned up the rust. Drop of oil and its working as it should. I was able to blow through it when energized. I put in back on the bike. Haven't tested it yet cause I have some other things to work on the bike but I'm hoping that was the issue.
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Ok I played around a little this morning and I think this might be the problem. I ohmed the solenoid and it's not open (good) but when I applied 12v and Gnd to it, it does not click. Nothing happens.
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Do you know how to deal with the lenses on the reservoirs?
No. Is there a way to fix them? I just assumed they were shot.
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Here is what I'm working with......
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Ok, just got back from a camping trip. I will start by making sure the vacuum pump makes vacuum and that the actuator works when vacuum is applied. Then I'll take it for a ride and do the "hold the throttle for 10 seconds" trick. Is there a resume button on the 1st Gen?? all of my label are missing and my right handlebar switch only has three positions which I'm assuming is SET/ON/OFF. where is resume?
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On my "1.5" gen I had to clean the slide switch - right handle bar.
Cleaning actually meant taking it apart Then make sure that when you slide and press (3 way) it is working by using your ohms meter!
Loose clutch loose brake handles also mess it up!
Patch
Yes, thats what I read and went through the bike and checked all the switches. Everything is working. I addressed the clutch lever (not really knowing if it was a problem at the time) by upgrading the clutch lever return spring. still no workie.
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ok so your's dims when you turn the switch to on just like I described, then when you get up to speed and hit SET, the light gets brighter indicating cruise is on? Just want to make sure that mine is operating as it should. I did not want to blame the control unit without knowing for sure how it operates.
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I decided to tackle the cruise control issue I am having with my 84 VR. The bike is new to me and has never worked for me. Last night I pulled the front fairings off and checked the clutch switch, brake switch and OFF/ON/SET switch. Everything cable wise seems to be good. I was able to use my power probe and activate the vacuum pump so I know that works. No sure about how the solenoid works yet but still looking it over.
Now I searched the forums to hopefully avoid adding another post about cruise control but I have one main question. The green cruise light on the dashboard illuminates when I turn the CC switch to the ON position and is remains illuminated. It does not blink. I did notice that it's bright for a second and then dims a tad. My question is is this normal? Does the green light stay on even though I haven't set the cruise speed? I thought I read in another post that the green light will come on for a second and then go off when the CC switch is turned on, then the light will be on once the cruise is SET.
I was also hoping that someone could tell me how the CC system works with all the different pieces. Does the vacuum pump stay running while the cruise is set or does the solenoid hold the vacuum etc.
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If I may make a couple of suggestions to you
The coolant leak to me- I would if you haven't do a long soak flush. May as well deal with all those now. Likely when you inspect the leak you'll find some corrosion, well there will be more hidden. After rinsing I would add 2/3 a can of Bar's Leak with pump lubricant, which must be added to through the rad not the overflow!
Then I would based again on experience go through every plug connect you can find and there are many; clean and grease each connections. You'll find some that won't pull apart, don't risk breaking those soak them with a penetrant oil! Every so often when you can measure resistance either to the frame or end to end. It will give you an idea of harness condition!
The slave will likely require a good cleaning in a bowl and check for pitting, if I recall there are o-rings you can replace just mention to the "o-ring" shop that they sit in hydraulic fluid so they offer up the right compound off their shelves. If I haven't mixed up my bikes slaves?
Patch
Just so I understand what you're recommending... I should do a flush of the coolant system with water? to find addition leaks that might pop up. I did just change the coolant and I had to turn the bypass valve which is probably why its leaking (broke the seal of corrosion). With the new coolant in, all I found was a very slow leak coming from the bypass. Since the coolant has to come out anyway to replace the o-ring in the valve I will flush out with water. You are recommending to pull apart every coolant connection in the system and clean? When I pulled the old fluid, I ran the engine for a couple of minutes and then dumped it. Coolant was fairly clean like it was recently changed. Also the bike has no issues overheating but I understand preventative maintenance. I am just worried of fixing something that is not broken... and then really have to fix it because I broke it! ha
Now the "Bar's Leak" goes in with the new coolant?
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All great! Thanks for the tips. I have a bunch of projects to do on the bike still and finding more as I found a coolant leak at the bypass valve and a clutch fluid leak at the slave cylinder. Thanks again.
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Remember working on a pressurized system you need to bleed the air 2nd.
I think if I understand your post it's just the rear leaking???
I would pressure up the rear after giving the area a quick pressure wash around the swing arm..
With the pressure up look for leaks with very soapy water. If you find anything at all BLEED THE PRESSURE before adjusting!
If not move up checking and spraying along to the relay control under the seat.
There a couple of O-rings at the tube ends, if memory serves?
Likely a good time to grease the swing and check the side stand bolt as well.
And bring a dish rag you're still a trial member;)
I'm asking this without having looked for myself, can I see where the air line connects to the rear mono shock without taking the bike apart (other than body panels)?
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I will take apart the solenoids in the back and give them a good cleaning.
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Sorry I am having trouble replying to your PM with a photo of the cable that I have. I am new here and not sure how to attach a photo to messages.
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I do understand that. I guess I feel its the easy way out. Also I have caught myself just starting the bike and then realizing that I forget to adjust the suspension. Which means I have to turn off the engine, make the adjustments and start the engine again. Sounds dump to complain about just pushing buttons, I know. I'll probably suck it up and take a look at the system again to find a leak and take it from there. Thanks
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I might have what you are looking for. PM me.
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I am new to this forum and have already got some great information from here. Recently purchased a 84 Venture Royale and spent about 2-3 weeks going over everything making it worthy for the road. Two things I want to address: 1. cruise control is not turning on (I leave this topic for another time). 2. I have noticed that I have a small leak in my CLASS system. Example: I set the rear to the medium setting (43 PSI) after about a hour of riding the psi is down in the low 30s. I know the right answer is to take everything apart, find the leak and repair it. I believe the front has an even slower leak. My idea (I haven't seen anyone post this) is to hook up the CLASS system to a switch that, once turned on, will turn on the CLASS system while the bike on. This way, I can ride for a long trip and periodically to on the switch and monitor the system. I have already installed a separate fuse panel which is controlled by a relay which is controlled by the key so there is no way to forget to turn off the system.
Thoughts.... concerns...
Delinked Rear Brakes are weak
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
So I took the bike for a ride this morning after only after removing the slop in the rear brake pedal and it seems to have a little more braking power. I wouldn't call it great but the pedal is hard not spongy. Like someone else commented, I would have to really stand on the pedal to lock them up. It's liveable for now.