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Posts posted by mantree91
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I would build a box that would run front to rear and then 90 degree bends from the sides down into the boots. My other thought is something similar to what you have but with a 2 inch colector in the middle with the carb mounted at the flair.Mantree91, to answer your question I really like the single carb. Now about the log style intake, the ‘wings have an opposing 4 cylinder engine and our ventures are a v4 so I do not believe that a log style intake manifold would function well on the venture. Here’s the link to the kit I installed so you can see the what the intake manifold looks like. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254289566865Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Please keep progress posted. Also interested in your intake design.
im leaning towards a log style intake right now, something like this guy did
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i am getting ready to install a webber 32/36 on my bike with a custom m intake. how are you liking the conversion?
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I actually just won a auction for a weber 32/36 so I am going to give it a shot. At worce what I payed I can still make my money back and ma e just waisted time tinkering. The bike is getting some much needed love right now so I will try it while I have everything apart.If this is what you are experiencing at the moment as well then you should post the issue.I'll split the problem by color..
This suggests a pilot jet issue.
This suggests a leaking at the needle so, opening the throttle compensates with more air added to the mix!
This represents a power issue not a start or idle issue
Bring this to a new thread and let us help..
Patch
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It wasn't starting and when I finaly got it to catch it would die if you didnt give it constant throttle. I pulled the slides out to cleen the needle jets and they are full of little holes. My best guess is something in the winter blend dost agree with them. I replaced them the end of the first winter of rideing and that was 4 years ago.Diaphragms should last longer than what you are experiencing. In any case though, rebuilding is not necessary to change the piston/slide diaphragms; simply remove the side covers and its all there in front of you!Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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That's fine I'm just looking at rebuilding my carb rack for the second time in under five years diaphragm failing. If I can get the Single carb swap to perform that's a lot easier to work on then the rack of four.If you would like to discuss the potentials, I suggest you look up our discussion on this topic. Unfortunately I can't remember the title of the thread? Maybe Puc or Flynfool does? Post there if you like after reading the give and takes we hash thru it.You won't change my mind with regards to this type of adapter but I have thought thru some progressive carb linkages that could benefit power output.
Air flow is the heart to the engine, so you need 1st match what is there, then aim to improve on it.
You need to lower the setup.
I have commented on the setup you linked somewhere in a repost, not sure when that was, it is the same setup/adapter as what we see here.
Patch
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What about something similar to the OPs set up but with a longer inlet that turns into a collector at the top for a progressive 2brl. That might help with the turbulance and make kind of a velocity stack.
There was another attempt here a while ago. He claimed good results.
A new twist on the single carb swap
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I ended up ordering a couple of stainless steel bolts off the internet, i already have them installed.I have at least 1 of everything from '83 to '86 Ventures, give me a few days and I'll let you know. The Fundi.Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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So I tried to get the pistons out but haven't been able to dose someone have a trick to get in there? My tape wrapped pliers just gouged the piston.
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My plan was scotch Brite pads but around as you suggested.
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So there is no special considerations when rebuilding no monoblock brakes? Last brakes I changed seals in were a single piston caliper from a old cb750.
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I picked up a full set of new calipers for my mk2. 2 right and one left blue cap calipers. Now my question is how do I rebuild them before I install them. I have seal kits coming for them and just need to know how to get them apart.
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Forks are mostly back together just need to fill them up and put on the fork caps. I also need to get the brakes on but I was going to rebuild but instead I ordered a set of new r6 brake calipers.
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I'd rather just rewire the trailer so that if I needed to pull it with the truck or my wife's car it is the same wireing. I just wasn't sure if there was a law about turn signals on the trailer.Not ANY powered converter is fine. You still need to get either a 4 wire or a 5 wire to match your trailer.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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So any powered trailer converter is fine? Cool I can find one pretty easy and wire it to a open fuse on the new fuse panel.
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I am looking at adding a trailer hitch to my sidecar rig. Looking at trailers it seems that most motorcycle trailers have separate turn and brake lights. Do they use a standard 4 pin trailer plug?
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If I wasn't so far away I would give you a hand with testing. I am looking at putting my ignition under control of a megasquirt to facilitate in COP ignition. I have also been thinking of using some 01-02 gsxr1000 throttle body's since they are not cast together but bolted together more like old carbs. I am not familiar with a lot of the tools used in milling and lathe work. What do you need the dovetail to do?
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If you're still tooled-up I would be interested in a set. If you don't mind me asking are you just having trouble supporting a bike? That's why I have a sidecar on mine.
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Both calipers are painted and I have some stainless hardware coming to put hem back together. I also ordered a seal tool to get the forks back together.
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One caliper painted one in the parts bath
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Thanks it's about 12 degrees f here -11 or there abouts c here. I was working in the garage stripping the calipers for rebuild and paint, the lace heater was hardly keeping up and the top hat puts off to many fumes to run in such a small place. I will go with ss lines eventually, I will have 5 made for the venture and 2 for the cb750. I will be using the low pressure line from the rear to run the sidecar brake (since the car spends most of its time unloaded it would brake traction easer if it got the same power as the rear brake.I used a Vmax splitter, universal lines and R6 calipers, which I had to go through before use.IIRC, I cut a ~4" x 1" slab from some 1/8" aluminum stock, then drilled one end for the VMX splitter and the other to bolt to the front lower of the steering tree, mostly to just get it to where it's position was natural for the brake line lengths. I cant recall where exactly I bolted it and cant seem to find the pic, but I did use some blue loctite to make sure it didn't wiggle loose over the miles. It's been a couple seasons and it does just what it should.
It's -12 deg right now and the bike is outside under cover, I can get a pic as soon as the weather breaks a bit. If you take the splitter and start looking around the front of the forks where it has to go I think you might see what I'm talking about.
I like Skydocs kit, it just didnt fit within my self-imposed budget for this machine. Now if I had a source for universal steel braided lines locally my life would have been a whole lot easier, as it is I used what I had on hand, which included aftermarket lines for all 3 fronts and the Vmax splitter. I had too use aftermarket lines as the OEM lines did not fit properly onto the R6 calipers, which I also installed at the time.
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It looks like they would work. My only problem is where to mount the manifold.
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I think they came out pretty good. I am replacing all exposed hardware with stainless and the drain screws were replaced with some socket caps as the old ones were pretty badly stripped. I couldn't find the gasket that is suppose to go on them so I used a o-ring.
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A new twist on the single carb swap
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
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U am about to take a crack at this. I have a webber 32/36 and some 1.5" mandrel bends I just need to make a jig to hold it while I mock it up and then weld it.
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