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Xcomunic8d

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  • Name
    Don

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  • Location
    Hilo, HI, United States

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  • City
    Hilo

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  • State/Province
    HI

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    96 RSTD

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  1. A husband went to the police station to file a "missing person" report for his missing wife: Husband : -I lost my wife, she went shopping hasn't come back yet. Inspector : -What is her height? Husband : -Average, I guess. Inspector : -Slim or healthy?. Husband : -Not slim, but probably healthy. Inspector : -Color of eyes? Husband : -Never noticed. Inspector : -Color of hair? Husband : -Changes according to season. Inspector : -What was she wearing? Husband : -Not sure, either a dress or a suit. Inspector : -Was she driving? Husband : -Yes. Inspector : -Color of the car? Husband : -Black Audi A8 with supercharged 3.0 litre V6 engine generating 333 horse power teamed with an eight-speed tiptronic automatic transmission with manual mode. And it has full LED headlights, which use light emitting diodes for all light functions and has a very thin scratch on the front left door... and then the husband started crying... Inspector: -Don't worry sir,...We will find your car.
  2. Been thinking of doing the same thing. Here’s a video and in the description all data needed. Jim, if you’re on here nice work brother.
  3. Any updates? been thinking about this one. I suspect you have one of following (AS LONG AS TIMING IS GOOD,no changes on crank, cam, timing chains, etc...in which case bust out a timing light out). Question:did you check spark plug gap (.031or .8 to .9 mm)? 1. bad coil-your first coil never worked if I read this right we’ll call it num4, but coil num3 worked in num4 spot, but not working as well when back in 3. Recommend checking the connection and a little dab of dielectric grease. Hope I got that right I’ve been recovering from kidney stone surgery. 2. A bad ground- you may have a faulty ground somewhere (possibly even the coil itself and/or the wire is jumping spark or arching to the frame or engine, this happened to me once on a car) these can drive you insane and do weird things on any engine. 3. A bad ecu timing controller- seems unlikely to me, but rule it out. I Invested in an in-line spark tester(can get at any car store) https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6 I also bought one of these spark testers. http://www.sears.com/lisle-corporation-spark-tester/p-SPM7341565609?plpSellerId=salefolks&prdNo=42&blockNo=42&blockType=G42 I would hook this up and validate spark on all 4 coils. Do yourself a favor and turn power off before moving the tester. Ask me how I know. If I was missing spark I would look at the wires for broken wires, bad coil, (seems unlikely to be a plug but hey that’s what this tester will show) or bad ground. Final test on the dead wire going into coil (theoretically unnecessary) hook up multimeter at connection and validate spark coming from spark controller (ecu or whatever its called). If I had spark on tester but not plug, change the plugs. Most of the time working on gas, small engine, outboards its been a coil/plug wire. Let me know what you’ve found. Oh and watch out for bad neutral safety switches (but that would cut all power so unlikely here)
  4. My manual for a 96 rstd (cover says xvz13a and bunch more) says initial tightening 37ft lbs (3-48), lower ring final tightening 2.2 ft lbs (3-49) Steering stem 94 ft lbs, front fork pinch bolts upper 7.2 ft lbs (3-49) hope this helps you out brother.
  5. A fifteen-year-old Amish boy and his father were in the new mall. They were amazed by almost everything they saw, but especially by two shiny, silver walls that could move apart and then slide back together again. The boy asked, "What is this, Father?" The father (never having seen an elevator) responded, "Son, I have never seen anything like this in my life, I don't know what it is." While the boy and his father were watching with amazement, a fat old lady in a wheelchair moved up to the moving walls and pressed a button. The walls opened, and the lady rolled between them into a small room. The walls closed and the boy and his father watched the small numbers above the walls light up sequentially. They continued to watch until it reached the last number and then the numbers began to light in the reverse order. Finally, the walls opened up again and a gorgeous 24-year-old woman stepped out. The father, not taking his eyes off the young woman, said quietly to his son, "Go get your mother."
  6. Ok guys. sooo a year later. been a little busy with other projects and work. in my defense, a boat has been taking up a bunch of my "free time" ty odie, i'm now a paying member here. here's what I've found on the shifter segment. looks like something broke clear off. not quite metal, not quite plastic. I found these shavings all over inside of segment area...obviously I'm replacing parts below per the suggestion above.... my question is anybody seen this before? anything else could be busted? not just loose pins but something clearly met a painful death here. checked the pins and they are all where they are supposed to be a little loose. but think I found one I cant shift into first. http://i64.tinypic.com/21o1t88.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/2ivywxf.jpg my plan going forward is to replace: 4NK-18185-00-00- segment 93604-12037-00- dowel pins 93604-16092-00- dowel pin any other suggestions guys (girls welcome too, of course)?
  7. Thanks odie, yes i I have some work ahead. Great advice on parts. Added them to my list from yamahaparts house. This is exactly what I'm looking for. I li agree I don't want to take engine out unless necessary but just asking input. Glad to know I'm not alone in issues....
  8. First post. So a buddy moved off island and asked to store bike in my yard until he could sell or ship it over....2.5 years later still there and hasn't moved. Decided to take matters into my hands and purchase it. Have a number of issues here's my biggest one: 1. had a clutch issue. Wouldn't go into 1st. Then it acted like stuck in upper gears. Bleed clutch right? Took it apart and found that the rubber master cylinder diaphragm is ripped. Water has been leaking in for who knows how long. It's not clear dot4, not yellow, not brown, think day old McDonald's chocolate milk shake with chunks. Cleaned out top and bled until fresh dot4 coming through... What a pain. Positive pressure built up after a few hours. Still no joy disassembled clutch. Verified moved outward on clutch function disassembled clutch...basket not pitted. Drained oil. Found rear brake frozen on (save for problem 2.) and no pressure on brakes...order rebuild kit Bunch of little stuff found on way (but she's pretty) trying to verify frictions but my caliper is missing-planning on replacing clutch plates (vendor ideas Barnett?) removed clutch to work tranny... No joy. Can get 5,4,3,2,N but not 1st shifter shaft seems very weathered and tired but didn't see bending. Will replace: shifter shaft, stopper lever assembly (wheel thing on tranny knob), shifter lever assmbly on from peg to shifter shaft, master cylinder rebuild kit, and probably clutch plates So here's my problem. The bikes had 20 years of neglect. Not sure if I have a tranny issue. Two options: pull engine or not. It started few months ago. Open to all ideas. Thanks. 1. I'm thinking will replace said things and get running. (All fluids, all master and slave cylinders, brake pads, drain fuel, and all filters, gaskets,etc...). If my parts and rebuild should I leave engine alone? 2. Should I just pull engine and do major clean up? Paint, Polish, and figure out tranny,etc... ps. Wonderful wife said "just tear it all the way down and put it together at least you know it's right." Love her. Know I can do it but rather be riding...
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