luvmy40
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Posts posted by luvmy40
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Are you talking about the clutch master cylinder? The clutch slave cylinder? Or the friction clutch assembly it's self?
There are a plethora of Venture master cylinders, both clutch and brakes on ebay and the clutch slave is still available new from Yamaha and most vendors(partzilla, boats.net, etc.)
PM skydoc_17 here. he may have everything you need.
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I listed local guidance, tools and mechanical help available. I don't have a trailer but I do have an 8" bed and ramp on the pickup. Should I also list trailer as available for recovery?
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Not sure what happened I answered but it didn't post,,, So if it is what I mentioned there will be a hose attached to the bottom from the crankcase! Then yes if you wish you can delete it and perhaps sell or offer it up...
It prevents oil from entering the air box is all.
Steven,
It looks like the missing post is in the Carb Rebuild Parts thread.
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OP,
The plastic box in the above picture looks to be the YICS chamber to me. It will have four hoses that go to vacuum ports on the heads. It can be removed and the ports capped.
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You can build a vin to match the current "requirements" there is a strict formula for them but I don't know it off the top of my head. I seem to recall a thread floating around here somewhere that went through it. I did this for an '81 Yamaha SECA for my insurance agent. Her under writers kept kicking my policy due to an "invalid VIN" so I built the VIN from the formula and there was never another problem. I don't know if this will work for the licensing agency, but it might be worth a try.
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Those Harbor Freight T-Handle Allens are OK for most light work but they will probably not be strong enough for the clutch slave job. Get a set of 1/4" or 3/8" drive hex drive sockets and an extension set. The cheap stuff at HF will work fine in that style.
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Sad to see you go MiCarl! I enjoyed your posts at the XJ forum as well as here. You should still come around from time to time and keep us updated on your tractors.
BTW, I was born at Robinson Memorial Hospital in Ravenna, OH. Literally right around the corner from Speedex.
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That is the YICS chamber. Yamaha Induction Control System
An inovative piece of Nippon engineering that looks great on paper and may even give some modicum of real wold advantage, but actually doesn't do much. A lot of us have just removed them and capped off the YICS ports on the heads.
In the XJ series engines the YICS chamber was milled into the head and you needed a special tool to block it off for synchronizing the carbs. I just left mine blocked on a couple XJs and never saw any performance or efficiency difference. My Gen1 MK1 Ventue's YICS chamber was leaking badly when I got so I just removed it.
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I found a 1986 VR on CL in Sydney, OH. About 200 miles from me. The post clearly stated there was no title and the crappy pictures(13 of them) showed a bike that had been partialy torn down. "I bought this to build a trike and then changed my mind." was the gist of the description. The asking price was $300.00
The only damage I could see in the pictures was a fairly harsh scrape on the top rear corner of the "cheekbone" of the left main fairing. it didn't look smashed, just scarred.
I called and a asked specifically if there was any serious damage to any of the plastics as they were my main interest. He said the scrape in the picture was the worst of it but there were some other scrapes and scratches. Nothing broken.
I dove down there today. 3hrs, 18 minutes one way.
That thing looked like it had been run over buy a truck The scrape in the picture was the best part of all the plastics!
The bike was in a pile at the edge of the road just off the driveway with a "for sale" sign sitting on top of the mess. It looked like it had been sitting there all winter, uncovered.
What did this idiot think I was going to do? Just give him $300.00 for a pile of crap because I just drove 3 hours and didn't want to go home empty handed? It was all I could do to not slap the stupid off of the guy. I took one look and said "Thanks for wasting my Saturday", got in the truck and left a skid mark down his driveway.
Why can't people be honest? Serious question.
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The Ignitech should work with the factory "Boost Sensor" for timing advance.
BTW, did you have Ignitech set the programming for COP application?
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Just a little good natured ribbing there Pucster!
I happen to agree with you about the factory gen 1 seats. Mine's just in bad shape and after 3 years of looking for a decent replacement, I gave up and ordered a new custom seat.
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I am primarily interested in the main fairings, side covers and lower fairings. If I can trade sub frames and luggage, I might do that. I will keep the front end for swapping next off season.
So, my '83 windshield will not fit on the '86 fairing? I ask because it looks in the pictues like the '86 windshield has been shortened to about 8"
Am I going to have to trade all the fairing mounts as well?
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I found a 1986 VR on Craigslist about 160 mi. from me. He is asking $300.00 OBO. He says he bought the bike to make a trike. He tore it apart but never did anything else with it. He claims it ran before he dismantled it. He didn't say it ran well, just "It ran." He said the plastic is all there and mostly good. Only one or two cracks, supposedly. He does not have a title.
I am going to be about 40 miles away from him for a couple days next week. I'm going to try to carve out the time to go take a look at it.
My question is this: Is my assumption that everything except the luggage is compatible with my '83 correct?
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Hmm, that looks an awful lot like a custom, aftermarket seat there Puc...
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/311235893434
The above link is for a set of four plug caps for the '76-'87 Honda GL1000/1100/1200 which calls for the NGK DPR8EA-9 spark plugs.
I just ordered a set. I'll let everyone know if they work, but I can't imagine why the won't.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/311235893434
I thought I'd resurrect this thread and add an option I found. The above link is for a set of four plug caps for the '76-'87 Honda GL1000/1100/1200 which calls for the NGK DPR8EA-9 spark plugs.
I just ordered a set. I'll let everyone know if they work, but I can't imagine why the won't.
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Are the RSTD brakes linked?
If so, you've probably got the rear line bleed thoroughly and the air is in the high point on the front link. Start with the front and make sure to bleed at the steering neck bleeder first.
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Go to Harbor Freight and buy a Mighty Vac vacuum pump with the brake bleed kit, about $30.00 IIRC. It takes about 3 minutes to bleed the rear system and get all the air out.
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Mega Comfy!
I am just a little disappointed as the maker told me the seat would be tailored to my inseam so I could flat foot the ride. No way can I comfortably flat foot this set up when one up. With the wife riding pillion and loaded for the road, probably.
I have a feeling this is due to the fact that the maker asked me about how I sat on the stock bike to determine my true inseam. My original seat is broke down badly and I had not installed the progressive fork spings at that time. I could force my heels down flat but not comfortably when we talked about it, so he told me I had a 30" inseam. I've always bought 32" inseam jeans because I like them a bit long, so this sounded reasonable. Oh well, like I said the seat is very comfortable when riding and I'll get used to the added height.
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One might say, "You'll just shoot more and not save any money." And, that might be true. One could also say, "You can load a better shell than you can buy for the money." That could also be true.
What I will tell you is this. Both are true. You can also load your own and save a lot of money if you do it right.
If you are not a competition shooter, go with Lee Precision and MEC. Look for deals on used gear on ebay.
If you have money to burn, buy new Dillon or Hornady gear.
PM me if you want help setting up Lee or MEC presses.
I have loaded many, many thousands of handgun, rifle and shot loads on "cheap" equipment over the last 40 years.
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Once again, more plastic broke in re-assembly! I finally got everything back together on The Beast after installing skydoc_17's delinking brake line kit and of course, I busted a mounting tab off of the right side main fairing. The one that the lower fairing mounts up to. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to fix this one.
I also had a weird thing happen and I pulled a really stupid, bone head move as well.
I took her out for a short shake down run. About 8 miles round trip to my favorite craft brew supplier. When I pulled into the store parking lot, the front fender was dancing around and making a horrible racket. My first thought was that I forgot to tighten the mounting bolts. Nope, all tight. I have no idea what happened but the "chrome"(plastic) extender on the rear of the front fender was busted half off and rubbing on the side of the tire. The fender it's self is cracked about 6 inches up from the back end. I'll definitely need a new fender.
And now for the bone head move.
Somehow, in my excitement to get everything finished I failed to notice the rear brake line was touching the #3 exhaust header.
The brakes worked perfectly right up until I pulled back into my driveway. The pedal lost pressure and I was engulfed in a cloud of smoke.
I'm an idiot.
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To steel a phrase from cowpuc;
Wowzey Wowzer! The beast gave me a workout yesterday!
I had planned on finishing the brake mods, running a carb sync and getting her all back together yesterday. The term "Pipe dream" comes to mind.
Earl's stainless steel brake/clutch line kit is extremely well made and high quality. The problem was one of hubris on my part. There are, necessarily three swivel banjo fittings that need to be tightened after installation for proper alignment. These are at the manifold splitting the front brake line to the right and left calipers.
I got everything tightened up and started the bleed process. It took a few minutes to get any flow started at all and when it did start, brake fluid poured out from the manifold area. I thought it was coming from the banjo fitting where the two lines are connected in tandem to the right side of the manifold. I tightened it further, still leaking. I pulled it apart and inspected the mating surfaces. Everything looked good so I put it back together, still leaking!
I finally figured out it wasn't the banjo joint but the upper swivel connection on the line coming from the MC at the manifold banjo joint. I thought I had them plenty tight(this is the hubris) even though there was barely enough room to get a stubby combo wrench on the swivel and not much leverage available.
I wound up getting it as tight as possible in place then disconnecting the line from the MC and removing the manifold from the mounting plate. Pulling the whole assembly out from the font let me get at everything to get enough torque on the swivel fittings the seal them up. I had to do this 3 time before I got everything sealed up AND aligned for proper installation.
Many bloody knuckles, a few hundred new curse words invented and a quart of DOT 3 later, the bakes are done and bled. Unfortunately, nothing else got done.
Maybe today?
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The calipers are easily rebuilt. The OE parts are available from Yamaha, Partzilla, Revzilla, etc. There are also many aftermarket parts available on amazon or ebay. I'd recommend staying away from Chinese manufactured seals and gaskets.
There are a plethora of videos on youtube showing how to rebuild brake calipers.
Getting the pistons out can sometimes be a challenge but I have yet to have one stump me. Compressed air(be very careful when the come out, they come out fast and hard!) or a grease gun will almost always work.
Clean is the rule. I use scotchbright pads and brass wire Dremel wheels to clean the bore and seal seats. Rotate with the circumference, don't wipe in and out when cleaning with even the mildly abrasive pads. Pre lube with brake fluid when installing the seals and pistons.
:banana:
Harddrv1 bobber build
in General Tech Talk
Posted · Edited by luvmy40
corrected date?
Any Gen 1(1983-1993{?}) clutch master cylinder should work. The front brake masters are different MKI to MKII but are backward compatible.