Rick Butler
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Posts posted by Rick Butler
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If the break is clean with no burrs that will rub...... and the bucket will still accept a shim without any issues, your bucket will be ok.
Oh, to remove a bucket, you have to remove the cams....so if you have to do this, you'd better have access to a shop manual.
Well, in the process of changing my valve shims I turned the motor with no shims in the number two intake buckets. Got it freed but snapped a small corner of the bucket off. It seems to me those shims are still in there pretty good as you really have to pry the to get them out. What do you all think? Thanks. Oh and I bought a shim kit should have bought a bunch of 2.70 because that is what I need. -
Just a quick note,
Loosen the top cap while you have the forks still clamped in the lower triple tree....it will make this process less frustrating.
Rick
I've got the front forks off, just finished re-greasing my steering head bearings. To change the fork oil, can I just unscrew the top caps where the air fittings go, dump out the old oil and add new? -
Carl,
FYI, 2nd gen Ventures do not have these 12 point cuts in the top of the dampening rod....they are smooth.
However, the bottom of the dampening rod has a taper that sits in a tapered depression in the lower tube. So all you really need to do is hit it hard with a quick burst from a pneumatic impact and it will break loose without spinning.
Hope this helps,
Rick
There is a socket head cap screw in the bottom of the fork that holds the damping rod in place. That's the bolt he refers to.Problem is when you turn the cap screw the damping rod tends to turn inside the fork. Often times an impact wrench can essentially hammer the cap screw loose. Tip for the next person: this tends to work best while the fork is still on the bike with the spring installed.
Yamaha is fairly unique in they put a 12 point cut out in the top of their damping rods rather than having them smooth like most other forks. You can engage a tool into the damping rod to hold it while you extract the screw.
That head is exactly like a socket you use to turn a bolt or nut. I've got a tool at the shop which is a piece of threaded rod with a nut welded on each end. I engage one end in the damping rod and hold the other with a wrench. One of the nuts is ground under size so it fits two different size damping rods. I don't recall either size.
Without making a tool like that there is another trick you can use. Get hold of a bolt where the head fits that socket in the damping rod. Put two nuts on the bolt and jam them as tight against each other as you can. Drop the bolt down into the damping rod and hold the nut with a socket and a couple extensions.
I know this is clear as mud, but hopefully Dingy will pull a picture from his library to show the socket in the end of that damping rod.
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Ruffy,
Are you sure it's not Greenville, TX, as there is not a Greenfield? If so, he lives pretty close to me in Wylie and you can refer him to me if he needs help with his bike.
Rick
Well, new owner took her home to Texas today. Dave AKA Celticrhune from the Delphi forumsPicked her up today. Told him about this site and the motley Texas crew. I think he's in Greenfield TX. Steve K stopped by too for its farewell. Im gonna miss her.
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The reason I ask is that there are only 7 standard fiber plates with the 8th being a half plate behind the wire. If all 8 are the same size, then the 8th is meant to replace the half plate and you can throw the wire, and both the fiber and metal half plates away.
Hope this helps,
Rick
Yes there are the same basic size.If you are trying to determine if I rec's a SET of disks I did; they were in the original box. If they weren't the same size they wouldn't work.
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Quick question Doug,
Where did you buy the 8 fiber plates and are they all the same bacic size externally?
Rick
Ok I went to YouTube, the manual, and Ventureriders, and I'm now confused.I have 8 friction disks in my new set of disks. 2 are different than the other 6.
One has a small square notch on 1 side and a large square notch on the other side.
The other "Odd" disk has NO marks or half circle or square notches on it.
The other six all have the half circle notches.
I took out the thin wire that holds the spacer, fiction disk, and steel way inside, on the inboard side of the clutch basket.
Then I got side-tracked.
So in what order does everything go in there please?
I know I have a steel and spacer and a friction disk go behind and are held in by the this wire, the rest go outboard of the wire.
Any help would be appreciated!
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Yeah FYI,
The sizes of any Yamaha bolt is always the middle set of numbers in the part number:
06016 = 6mm in diameter and 16mm long.....and I'm not sure about the pitch.
Rick
Its a 6mm x 1mm pitch x 16mm Lg. flat head machine screw. -
Yes Dion,
The ignition wiring on top of the neck is identical and it can be bypassed by using the same instructions for the RSV. I wired a relay into mine and then put a switch on the relay ground wire which gave me an emergency kill switch. So if the switch was off, the bike would not start regardless if the key was on.
Hope this helped,
Rick
Sorry if my question was not clear. I am looking for information relating to the Tour Deluxe and switch failures. Also if the wiring harness is the same and can be by-passed with a relay as the 2nd gen is. -
Kirby,
They work great....to the point you can ride with a pair of summer gloves underneath. And even better is to have a set of heated grips inside of them.
The ones I got a few years ago were called "Polar Hands" and sold by Tucker Rocky, but I don't see therm now. They had velcro slits top and bottom which allowed you to slip them around mirrors and controls and hold them on with a velcro strap. But I found them on ebay:
But it appears someone else is now manufacturing the old "Hippo Hands" created by Craig Vetter in a more current style, which looks good and will also slip arount mirror stalks:
http://www.hippohands.com/HHDUALPURPOSE.htm
The only downside I have found is that the controls on the bars are now hidden, so you need to know where everything is by feel. And sometimes the slight pressure against the clutch and brake lever will cut your cruise control off.
Check them out, they are definitely worth it if you need to ride in the extreme cold.
Hope this helps,
Rick
Has anyone on here ever tried to put Hippo Hands on an RSV? If so, did they do the job of keeping your hands warm in cold weather? -
Sorry Perry,
This link doesn't work.
The part I'm talking about is an adapter that screwed into the top front cylinder so you could screw in the temp probe for the temperature gauge.
Rick
Hi Rick, did you see this writeup by V7Goose. I have Ponch's gauge set on my midnight, but not sure on the adapter part#. -
Hey Guys,
Some time back I saw a post that had the part number for the adapter Ponch provided with his gauge set for the water temperature probe into the head.
I'll be danged if I can find it. Does anyone know the adapter I'm talking about? I need one.
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Rick
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Well Mark,
You are kind of right on this. But even though I had also modified my Road Sofa a couple of times, I finally realized the advantages of the Pillow Top seats after I made my modifications to them and decided to check out my own work
Of all the seats I have reworked, the Pillow Top has always been my favorite, so I guess I just now decided to practice what I preached.And I never stop trying to improve on my work, so yes you will most likely see improved differences in the same seat over time....especially from the first one I did.
Hello Rick: So what you are telling us, is that you have been practicing on OUR seats for the past 5 years in order to gain the skills to do YOUR own???Seriously. Probably the best TESTIMONIAL anyone can write. I sure appreciate the mod you did on our RSTD seats.
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Well Jonas,
All of my basic work is involved in improving the shape of the foundation foam to better fit the butt. And after I get the shape to my satisfaction, I cover every seat with a layer of memory foam.
I've attached a couple of older before and after pictures of the passenger seat. But remember the more seats I rework, I find myself improving more on the shape. You know...the older...smarter thing
Hope this helps,
Rick
Hi Rick.Any pictures of a reshaped passanger pillow top ? Do you reshape the foundation pan or just the foam ?
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Folks,
For those that don't know me, my wife Linda and I have been riding on Travelcade Road Sofa seats since the late 80s. Therefore, we have never spent any length of time on any of the RSV seats that I have been reworking for the past 5 years. And even though I'm on my 3rd RSV, I have never had a oem seat on any of them. They always went on the shelf to be replaced by my Road Sofa.
But the 07 I bought a little over a couple of years ago came with pillow top seats and after several long trips with Linda, I realized that our Road Sofa was starting to really bother my her hip, which had been replaced in 2004 from an accident. I realized then that the pillow top seats that came on this Midnight were up in my attic, so I decided to rework them and try them out.
So this year after 3 - 9 day trips of around 10,000 miles total, they have more than exceeded our expectations, expecially for Linda. We can ride from tank to tank without any butt burns or other issues. And harsh bumps do not bother her like they did with our Road Sofa.
Since I started reworking Pillow Top seats, I used a 1 1/2" layer of memory foam to replace the 1" oem pillow foam. But, a year ago my supplier of 1 1/2" foam quit carrying this thickness.....so I started using 2" memory foam. I first thought this thicker foam would be too much, but after what Linda and I have experienced, it works out better than I expected. This thickness really lets you settle into the seat down to the denser re-shaped foundation foam and really reduces most pressure points.
Now a little input on the Pillow Top passenger seat. This seat is shaped like a big biscuit which really spreads the thighs of the passenger. The first thing I do to reshape this foundation foam is to give it a saddle shape with a much narrower nose, but with a nice shaped bucket to sit into at the back. With Linda's bad hip I even narrowed it more which really worked out better. I don't know how many folks have told me that their wife was ok with her seat and they only sent me the driver's seat......only to later send me her seat 2 weeks later after she saw what I did for his seat. So any more, I tell folks to go ahead and save themselves some grief and go ahead and send me her pillow top seat.
So, for those pillow top owners who have not had me rework thier seats yet, now is the time to send them to me....you will not be disappointed
Rick
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I was looking at another post from ebay and saw one for the starter relay:
Might help you understand what you are looking at?
Rick
The starter relay is located on the left side of the battery box. The cable from the battery runs directly to one lug on this relay, where you will find one 30 amp fuse along with a spare. The only problem I have seen from this relay is corrosion that damaged the inner connection to the relay.Good luck,
Rick
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The starter relay is located on the left side of the battery box. The cable from the battery runs directly to one lug on this relay, where you will find one 30 amp fuse along with a spare. The only problem I have seen from this relay is corrosion that damaged the inner connection to the relay.
Good luck,
Rick
Hi all I am trying to run down an electrical issue on my 2005 RSTD and I was wondering if anybody has had trouble with the starting circuit cutoff relay. On pg 8-15 of the service manual. But I cant seem to locate it to check it anybody know where it is?Thanks
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The magazines may get a sneak look, but based upon past experience with Yamaha, NO ONE will know anything until the dealer show...hopefully next Aug. And my money is on a new updated fuel injected V-4, with maybe a Road Glide fairing?
As most of you know my Venture got totalled by an idiot that rear ended me and i went and bought a new Harley Street Glide. The Street Glide is a nice bike and all but it is not the bike that my Venture was and i really miss it and am thinking i made a mistake by getting the HD. If Yamaha made a 3rd gen Venture i would trade my new Harley in for one tomorrow. Has anyone heard anything at all what Yamaha plans to do with the Venture? I wish they would be more up front with their customers and not keep us in the dark. -
I'll look for Skydoc_17 and get one of his kits.
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Juan,
Take Matt's advice and let me fix it for you....for the money....you won't be sorry.
Rick
I see that you are a trial member so you wouldn't know, but there is a guy here on the forum who does this mod for just $40.00.....His name is Rick Butler down in Texas. I and a lot of other members have had him do it and are happy with the results.I also suggest getting a long hair sheep skin to throw on top of your seat. With Rick having done the mod and me buying a sheep skin I can ride ALL day in total comfort.
Here is Rick's info....
:080402gudl_prv:By the way pay your $12 to join the group, some of the best money you will ever spend.....Welcome to the forum, I hope you find us helpful.
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Bert,
Outside of a bike lift, my favorite solution to your issue is a front wheel wheel chock. Cycle Gear has a good one on sale for $70 and you can also use it for a front wheel mount in a trailer:
Hope this helps,
Rick
Looking for way to level bike for doing maintenance on bike. Have been using 2x4 under kickstand to raise a bit but it is not very stable. Not interested in adding a centerstand. Any suggestions out there?Thanks
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CJ,
If I understand you right, it sounds like you did not remove the forks and removed the damping bolt in the bottom of the forks to drain the oil?
Is this true?
Rick
So I was following the Tech article on how to change out the front fork oil knowing the previous owner didn't change it in 50k miles; but now I can't get the suspension back together and get the dampener bolt to thread back in. The front forks have slid down a bit and I can't get them back together.Looking for the trick to bolting it back together, or at least the "hand-on-forehead" comment to make me realize the stupid thing I'm overlooking.
Thanks for the help.
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Buddy,
Do you just have a busted head light or is the chrome housing smashed up? If it's just the 7" light, Kuryakyn offers a diamond cut replacement that will work well:
http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/1539/Diamond-Cut-Ice-Smooth-Custom-Headlamps
But if you need the entire headlight housing, then I'd keep my eye on E-Bay or check with Pinwall Salvage.
Hope this helps,
Rick
Anyone have an aftermarket headlight solution for the 06 RSTD?? I can't see dropping 500 plus on the OEM. Thanks -
No Jack,
Cupping tires is always a sign of a poor suspension with little or no compression or rebound dampening in the forks and/or rear shock. When fork oil get forced through a small orfice long enough, your suspension basically says "this aint oil" and quits working like it should. Kinda like your truck when the shocks get worn out and goes bouncing down the road.
Rick
The only way you can get tire cupping is to run the tires underinflated... -
My profressional assessment is that you probably torqued one side and overlooked the other? At 29ft/lbs and forget the locktite, they will not back out.
While on a trip from Nor*Cal to Sedona I had a caliper on the front fall off. Some how the bolts worked loose. Before the trip I replaced the front tire and I know for a fact that I torqued the bolts to spec.Anyone else have this happen? Also, is there any issue with using a dab of lock tight on the threads?
Of all the seats I have reworked, the Pillow Top has always been my favorite, so I guess I just now decided to practice what I preached.
:080402gudl_prv:
Bringing an 83 back to the street (hopefully)
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
Steve,
If that's the original paint, you have an 84 standard and not a 83. If so, the bike probabaly has all of the recall issues of the 83 already made.
Good luck,
Rick