Rick Butler
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Posts posted by Rick Butler
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Glenn,I've attached a fault finding diagram I found on the ElectroSport site that explains what you are asking on checking voltage. It basically boils down to GT 50VAC across each of the 3 white wires (phases) from the stator......and GT 13.5 at 2,500 rpm and LT 14.8 VDC at 5,000 rpm and the stator is just fine.
Thanks for the reply.I'm trying to determine if I have a defective r/r and or a weak stator. I've studied the different kinds of stators extensively and am sold on the series design. (Sh775, Sh847 or CE605) I fully understand the 3 styles and advantages of mosfet, old school shunt and series and i agree with your assessment camos. I don't seem to have adequate charging voltages! Research gives conflicting info on what these series design DC voltage output should be. -
Yeah Rich,
If you had a 1st gen, I would say that tightening the head bearing a bit is a good thing. But I have discovered that with these new frames on the 2nd gen, doing this will give you adverse effects. In fact riding the bike after torquing the head bearings is the final test.....if it won't ride straight, then they are too tight and if the head shakes at 70mph when you lock the cruise and take your hands off the bars, too loose. And it doesn't take much of a movement in the nut to make a change either way.
But I don't think you will need a Plan B, as I'll bet good money it's the head bearing......did you also pack them real good when you replaced the bearings?
Good luck,
Rick
Well yesterday, by the way hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving, I checked the swing arm. There wasn't any play and the torque was right on the money. Rick, I'll go back and loosen the head bearings as you suggest and see what happens. I did tighten them a little extra to make up for the weight of the fairing in the bump test. I may have gone past the limit. If that doesn't resolve the issue I do have a "Plan B". I'll give more details if I have to use it. Thanks for all the help. -
BJ,
It's been a long time, but yes I have taken a coilover 1st shock apart but I did it with a Dremel and had to cut it apart. And there is nothing that is rebuildable in this shock without considerable machining, which would cost the same as a replacement shock. You had the good judgement to install RaceTech Cartridge Emulators in your forks (and hopefully replace the springs and bushings), but would you want to buy them or make them yourself?
I would suggest a Hagon, but looking at their application list it doesn't appear that they have one for the 86-93 Royale. But I would call them and see if they could build one with their components. You might send them yours to evaluate/prototype and maybe they would discount it? Regardless, they still make the best shock for the money.
http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/
Hope this helps,
Rick
Thanks, but I'm not looking for an aftermarket replacement.Looking to make my own.
No fun for me in just buying it and bolting it on.
Don't learn anything either.
So I'm guessing no one has ever taken a 1st gen shock apart?
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Rich,
With everything you have done to this bike and it's still wondering, I really feel you have the head bearings too tight. Too loose, the head will shake on deceleration and too tight it will constantly wonder trying to correct the tracking between the front and rear wheel. I would pull the top tree and back off the castle nuts 1/2 a castle and put her back together and see if that makes a difference.
Good luck,
Rick
I changed the front wheel bearings and still have the wandering. In other threads people refer to it as the bike feeling "hinged" in the middle. This is really what I'm feeling. Now what??? Tomorrow is Thanksgiving and I'll have a whole day to recheck everything. The wife always wants me out of the way while she cooks anyway. I think I have eliminated the front of the bike, so I'll concentrate on the rear. Do I need to remove the differential and drive shaft to properly check the swing arm for play? Everyone have a great holiday. -
Take a look at this fiche:
http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004684bf8700209bc796349/seat
It's #10 and cost around $30 or so
Hope this helps,
Rick
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Eck,
I only need your seat for a couple of days and since you don't have a heated seat, the cost is the same as any other seat. And that would work perfect to drop it off with me and I'll have it ready for you when you head back home.
However I do have a few days already scheduled to be away from the house in November....the weekend of Nov 1st and Sunday Nov 8th.
Just keep informed as to when you are coming,
Rick
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Eck,
I think you will really like what I do for a GL1800 seat. I started doing these seats a couple of years ago with a couple of local bikes and after I finished it, the guy asked if I minded if he posted my work on his GL1800 forum. Well for about a couple of months, I was covered up with GL1800 seats so I pretty much have them nailed down where I still do a few every year. You won't believe this, but I use 2" memory foam (the same foam I use on pillowtop seats) which really turns out great. I guess I need to post just a GL1800/1500 classified ad. And the heating elements are not an issue, it just takes me longer because of the extra time involved in removing and re-installing the elements......where I also charge more.
The only problem is finding or building a 34X19X13 box to ship it to me.
Let me know if I can help
SOOOOoooooo glad you are doing much better Rick. It's been a long journey for you.Question here:
Do you rework Goldwing 1800 seats, like adding more padding since I don't have much meat on my behind...I always feel like I am sitting on a rock..
Now I have been called a fat butt before ...but when ever I heard some one say that, I knew right then that they really didn't know what they were talking about....
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Wayne,
Russell builds their seats on your stock seat pan, so for the most part you are limited to the distance from the tank to the convergence of the fender. Now Russell will build a taller seat (to give you a "Day Long" seat) which in fact will allow them to move you back further, which should help.
Rick
I just sent back my Ultimate Seat, the problem is it sat me and my big butt on top of the gas tank making it very uncomfortable for my manhood.. If I purchase a RDL Seat, will it provide a bigger bucket and set me back from the tank some?? I'm 5'8 and 215 lbs. My bike is a 2005 RSTD with a Butlerized Stock Seat, with a Quick Release Backrest... Any help would be greatly appreciated, i love the bike other than the seating problem... -
Josh,
Your request is perfect timing as Rick Butler is back from a 2 month injury to start reworking seats for you guys. In fact I just completed a 96 Royal Star seat that really works out well. Take a look at my classifed ad which explains what I do and pretty much everything you need to send me s seat (s).
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Let me know if I can help,
Rick
Me and my buddy decided to go for a ride yesterday, well that ride turned into 196 miles, about maybe 40 mile into the ride I discovered my butt was sore, is there any seats out there that are a lot more comfortable than the stock seat that I have, I ride a 97 Yamaha royal star, help plz!!!!!Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
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Ok Folks,
A couple of weeks ago I got the clearance from my doctor that my collar bone and ribs are healing up and I could start getting back to using my right arm......but to take it easy for another month. So I have done a few local seats since then, to see how it went and for the most part, I'm ready to go. Now I can't do more than one set of seats in a day, so I won't be able to turn them around like I have in the past.
So, if you have been waiting to send me a seat, go ahead and get with me and we'll get something going.
Thanks for being patient,
Rick
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Larry,
If I were you I would put EBC FA179 HH Copper sintered pads on the front and FA123 Organic pads on the rear. The organic pads use Kevlar or Aramid which Skydoc told me doesn't really grab hard until they get real hot........which helps in keeping the rear brake from locking up with occasional hard rear braking. Now the HH pads grab good and have a nice smooth feel and do not gouge the rotors.
Hope this help,
Rick
While my bike is down, doing a little preventative maintenance while parts are out to be painted. Although they still have a few miles left on them, I have decided to go ahead and replace my brake pads and been looking at the options. On my last bike, I installed the EBC sintered brakes. They claim to have better stopping power and longevity. Was really hard to tell if I gained very much in stopping, but thought that I could tell a little difference and didn't keep the bike long enough to know if the sintered brakes actually last longer.Thoughts?
Sintered or not and where is the best place online that you have found for 2nd Gen pads?
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Chuck has it right,
If you get a set of oem pads too hot they will fad.... bad. But my question is WHY are you using the rear brake to scrub off speed......that's what your front brakes are for, where they load the front tire and give you a bigger contact patch. You get 70% of your total stopping power from the front brakes.
Hope this helps,
Rick
If you were long hill with a lot of switch backs and used your rear brake a lot to slow down . They got hot and lost there ability to slow or stop you. I am in WV with a lot of mountains, when I start down and I think or know it is steep and twisty I use 3 RD gear and let the motor hold me back and the brakes do not get hot. -
Hey Ron,
I have a cracker jack painter down here in north Garland on Buckingham at 78 that is real good and inexpensive. He did a front fairing for me for $200. I'm guessing your 01 is the cherry and burgundy somaybe your damage is just in one color where he is real good at taping up the pen strip and painting the second color and you will never know that it was repainted.
Rick
214-926-3905
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No,
That's low mileage for an 87
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Wayne,
They should be able to put a runout gauge on the rotor to check for warpage or whether the wheel has issues? Then he might think about changing pads to sintered copper HH pads rather than the oem organic, which are much smoother?
Rick
Thanks guys it gives me a few more things to look at or to suggest to the dealer. The dealer is actually trying and not giving him a hard time. It is still under warranty for a year.. I'll try and keep you posted on the solution (when we get it) -
Has anyone seen this one? I saw it on Facebook where they said rumors are this is a spy shot of a new design of the Royal Star Venture. Looks somewhat interesting?
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I use a small lock washer between the screw head and the flat washer which helps keep them tight by just snugging them up hand tight. I also use longer screws with the Clearview screen.
Hope this helps,
Rick
What is the deal with the windshield screws vibrating loose? I will be replacing the windshield as soon as it arrives (Clearview of course..) and I don't want to be tightening those things up every few weeks. Locktight? -
Kent,
I've used a couple of 2" O rings on each side which seal up this junction pretty good.
Rick
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Sorry Vito,
I didn't see your post until now. But I have exactly what you need and it's been laying in a drawer for years and you can have it for the cost of postage.
Let me know,
Rick
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Sorry Guys,
But I already have a commitment for a 10 day trip with my guys down here around that same. After last year getting canceled, I had kinda taken my eye off of it for this year. But I'll try to make it back up there next year.
Rick
I don't know if he will be at MD or not. I'll find out. -
Sorry to hear this Don,
I've met him a couple of times and certainly had more than conversation with him where I thought he was good guy.
I know he will be missed by his close friends,
Rick
Some of you who have been around since the early days will remember Dan Lowery. Dan was one of the original officers when I started the "Venturers" site. I honestly don't remember if he ever joined this site or not but he and I did remain friends over the years. We rode together a couple of times when I lived in Dallas.I got word today that Dan passed away on January 9th which also happened to be his birthday.
Dan was a good man and will be missed by those who knew him. Please say a prayer for his family and friends.
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Folks,
I don't means to sound self-serving, but if you plan on doing some long rides next year.....you might consider sending the "Butt Butler" your seat (s) to rebuild.....that is if you have not already done it.
This is usually my busy time of the year to rework seats, but I'm still surprised and the number of folks who wait until later in the Spring when I'm getting ready to take off on a long ride myself. So if you have already put your bike up for the season, this is the perfect time to turn loose of your seat (s) to let me make them better for you.
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Let me know if I can help,
Rick
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Henry,
I've attached a fault finding diagram I found on the ElectroSport site (one of the manufactures of motorcycle stators and rectifiers), which I've found to be very helpful in situations like this. And they also provided a diode testing procedure for testing the diodes in the rectifier which I've also attached.
Hope this helps,
Rick
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Hey Folks,
Recently I had the opportunity to make a unique followup second change to a pillowtop seat for a customer who wanted me to raise the seat level back to the original seat height. On all of my modifications, I remove material from the foundation foam to remove pressure points and create a pocket for the rider to sit into, rather than sit on. This customer had a special situation with one leg where I need to change the angle of the legs and the only way I could do that was to bring the seat height back up to the original height. This meant I had to ad foam, and to do this I did what I have done on several sport touring and adventure bike seats, and that was to cut out a flat section of the seat bottom and glue in a layer of firmer foam and then rework the shape.
I first started doing this on older seats where the foundation foam had deteriorated and it needed to be build back up to let me reshape the seat as needed. Then I adapted the process to allow me to provide a firmer seat foundation that I could provide a better shape for sport touring and adventure bike seats.
I have found a closed cell foam that is used for gym mats in 1 and 2" thicknesses that has really worked out nice for applications like this where I need to rebuild a seat. I have always felt that a firmer seat is a better seat and this change has allowed me to control the shape of the seat more to where I can usually even make it wider and still stay with the stock cover. Then I still cover the entire seat with a layer of memory foam to help reduce pressure points. And it still allows the rider to settle down to the firmer foundation.
Now when I test fitted this seat on my bike it really felt nice and my first thought was that this was a change that that I needed to to do with my Butt Butler Pillowtop?
So I've attached a few pictures of what I did to this pillowtop. And for you folks that would like a firmer seat, this may be a addition I may make to my Butt Butler seat mods. Now like I do for covers that are attached with pop rivets and seats with heating elements, I will charge a modest fee to my base price.
So let me know what you think of this.
Rick
Steering Wanders
in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Posted
Well good deal,
I can't explain it, but these Royal Star frames seemed to make a big difference on the head bearing torque compared to what we had to deal with on any of the 1st Gens. They just like it to where the forks move smoothly to the stops with a little friction. On a 1st gen you wanted the forks to move smoothly off center, but stop before they hit the stops....or more friction?
Rick