cruiserlover

I am not trying to hijack the thread.But I have looked into a single carb manifold.

sorry,you are getting irritated.I now know why the other nut isnt used.It is used.Its connected by the jumper copper strip to the big post.No, it couldnt be any simpler.I think I shorted out the insides of the new solenoid and probably the other one too with some of my errors.this is my solenoid:

havent tried any of this, but you are a genius.

I give up.I am done for a while.I had this bike running a few days ago.I connected the positive cable to the big post next to the blue/white wire.I connected the ground cable to the other post.I touched the blue white wire to a metal place on the frame,had it hard pressed and nothing happened.I stil get a solenoid click.I even reversed the cables on the big posts.No click then.In regard to the clutch switch it had the blue yellow black yellow and 2 black white.I twisted the black white together and the black yellow and blue yellow together.I know that really has nothing to do with this.I even put the former solenoid that I had originally had when the bike was running before.still just a click. I did everything you said.It does still leave one small nut next to where the bluewhite is connected unused.I am thinking that one doesnt make any difference.I dont know why it is even there if its not necessary.I do appreciate your time.I had this bike running with the solenoid connected as I wrote.Now it wont.I also tried key on,sidestand up,clutch lever pulled in, neutral light on.Nothing. One odd finding, with the key off touching the solenoid body to a metal surface caused a spark. I just went out,tried once more.The battery is so run down now the neutral light doesnt come on, the horn doesnt honk, the voltmeter needle doesnt move.I am thinking my brand new battery might be bad.Until tomorrow, thanks a bunch.I have an xj 650 I am replacing the cams and cylinder head and all its expected gaskets and that is easier to me than this is.With those parts they either are in right or they wont go in for the most part.Not some unexplainable glitches. I could see the battery running down if I had cranked on the starter a long time.

some progress.now at least I have a solenoid click.The jumper from the big post to the small post where the blue white wire was when it came in the mail must be internal,it is not external.Maybe I need to create an external one. I put a screwdriver across the solenoid posts and nothing happened.Usually that makes a motor turn over, even if no key is in the ignition.I am wondering if the unhooked clutch switch is now the culprit.Even if the switch needs connected the solenoid pole crossing should have made the motor turn over.I wonder if I destroyed the solenoid.

I am about to try that.I have looked on here, cannot find how to bypass the clutch switch.The original wiring coming from the harmess connected with a switch half inside the mastercylinder handlebar assembly.But the replacement assembly has 2 male spade type prongs which wont connect to the factory side.The clutch switch wiring appears to be blue white,black, and black with white stripe.My limited knowledge says the black and black white are grounds and the blue white is positive.I would think and am probably wrong that the black and black white could be twisted together and some extension wire to them then reach under some screw someplace and ground it.The same with the blue white.connect the one from the harness to where? under the small solenoid screw, or to the wire under the nut you showed in your picture? Thanks for your help and indulgence.I know if the clutch switch is bypassed it no longer interferes or harms the bike.

mine looks like 2 of those combined.it has the rubber protective cover like the vmax, but the single attached blue white wire under the small screw like the mk2.They really all are basically the same except the mk1.I am putting a jumper from the unused small screw to the big post of the solenoid.The positive battery cable goes under one post.I assume its the one on the same side of the attached blue white wire, and the ground cable goes to the big post where I attached the jumper wire.

the mk 2, vmax and other solenoid pics tell me a jumper is needed from the small post to the big post.

thanks guys.That is a great description.And good pictures.I have tried in vain to decipher the wiring diagram in my manual.There is not even a mention of battery on it.plus tracing the blue white and red white is impossible.one because its all black and white, and 2 because the drawings have everything so small its hard to even read the L/w and the r/w. blue white and red white.Thanks.The solenoid did in fact come with a blue white wire under the small screw and it does have a bullet connector and the bike has the matching bullet connection to plug into it.That used one of the small scews but left the other unclaimed.I should be ok to get it fixed now thanks to the great explanations.Thank you.

I bought a solenoid for my 86.It came with a blue white wire with a bullet connector that mates to a wire from the harness with the connecting male end of the bullet connection.This wire is under a small screw in the backside of the solenoid.The other small screw has nothing under it.I know a blue white and red white have to be connected for the solenoid to work. Does a wire from the small screw lead to the post of the solenoid and connect under the large nut of the solenoid post. The positive battery cable goes to one post.The same side the bluewhite wire is connected? there is no red white wire from the harness to connect to any post on the solenoid.I had the bike running just a few days ago.That solenoid was from an 83.It had a smal redwhite wire that was connected from the small post to the large post.Then that post had a battery cable under the same nut.I cant remember if its the blue white or the redwhite that is ground. also, I am replacing the clutch mastercylinder and handlever assembly because the original is broken and the one from the 83 is different.Inside the original assembly was a wiring connection.It has like half a switch.The other half comes from the harness.That snapped inside the handlebar assembly.Is that the clutch switch? If its not connected does that open the start circuit? Is there a way to disable it? The replacement master cylinder assembly has 2 male prongs, not anything a device from the harness can snap into.

the guy with the green one did use a tank from something and moved the electrics where the tank was.i dont want to reengineer.what yamaha did worked.the giant tank on my 99 and 01 rsv made them very topheavy

thanks.I almost bought that one.I will return the one i bought if it doesnt work.

nope.I demolished the screw, the threads, the whole shebang.I even used a handdrill to prevent that.But it wasnt powerful enough to penetrate because its just me not a motor.I have ordered a universal fit off ebay,dont know if it will work.The electrical wire that has a fuse like end from the bike snapped into a receptacle from the brake lever mastercylinder assembly.I dont know if that is a clutch switch.If so I dont need it.But if it isnt bypassed the bike will start but not move forward because the bike thinks the sidestand is down or something like that.I had that happen on a kawasaki.It started, but as soon as it was put in gear it died.The clutch switch was messed up,had to be bypassed.I can find no mastercylinder just like the one the bike has.Plus it had a portion of the assembly that a component mounted to.Maybe for the cb,or radio,not sure.I have removed all the sound stuff anyway.

well then so be it.I can live with the light.Everytime i touch wiring I do something stupid

I am about to get my 86 sorted out I think.I am leaving it fulltour stock.My 83 will most likely need a tci.It is so stripped since all the plastic is removed.I am thinking about making a custom cruiser out of it.I have seen several.One guy used a gastank from something else.I have one from a kz 1000, but thats not my plan.The low center of gravity of our bikes gastank make it very desireable.Another guy used a shelter from an 81 goldwing.That makes it look like a goldwing.I had 3 of those.Maybe the false shelter from a suzuki 1500 lc.I would remove the tour handlebars.I have some trooper style to put on.Probably flat black with red pinstripes if I get this done.I only have 24 hours in a day. I hate to buy a tci and not need it.

I saw this before.great writeup.You said the bike could still be ridden without doing all that? I thought the probe being unused would run the battery down.Also I dont have glass fuses.The previous guy replaced them with minifuses.Perhaps put the small wire down inside the fuse prong female slot somewhere and push the fuse down into it.I cant tell if this new fuse box has one for accessories.I guess use one of the 5 amp or 10 amp slots? Thanks a bunch.

hey, ff, guess what? I only had to walk 10 feet from the solenoid donor bike to the 86 and still I connected up the solenoid backwards.I switched the wires and now the start button works.The battery is about dead though.Since the new battery has no probe connection I have been told to put a resistor.I bought some tiny 4 ohm resistors.They have real thin wire coming from either end.So one end solders to the probe end and the other has to go under a fuse spot.All the fuses are ignition switch on hot correct? So If I put the wire in any fuse hole, say 5 or 10 amp it should fool the sensor,am I right? Now I have to get the ruined screw out of the clutch master cylinder cover so i can fill and bleed that system. I bought some tiny easy outs.Last time I tried drilling out one of those screws i bored completely through the chamber.I have 2 others if I do. Wish me luck FF.

Right about jumping around.The 86 was running pretty good yesterday.Today before i touched a thing the start button did nothing.I will put the battery back on the charger.The battery flashing light comes on now because i found a 15 amp fuse that had blown.Perhaps when I tried going across the poles of the starter.when you say small wire on the starter to the battery negative post-do you mean the blue white red white? Those are switch on hot,correct? You mean the solenoid negative to the battery negative.The other post on the solenoid does come from the negative side of the battery it appears.I am working the next few days.I am glad.It was perfect yesterday, all I did was go to bed and now it doesnt work.Perhaps the unconnected probe is draining the battery? Thanks so much for yur input.

i didnt have any wd 40.I sprayed a little pb blaster around the start button.That possibly screwed everything up.On the 83 it almost starts.It turns over real fast.I take the hose loose from the fuel pump and the hose is connected to the fuel filter and runs out a lot.The bike is probably on reserve.But the stopcock lever is broken off,no way to turn it back to off position.Can the fuel be from the fuel filter and to the fuel pump and the filter be clogged? I am thinking no.Maybe the fuel pump.The former owner said it wasnt.He said he bought a used tci,put it on, it ran briefly then quit.I am just about done with all this.

well,now it wont start.I tried going across the old solenoid.It just started to smolder but the motor did move.I took the one off the old 83.I hit the start button and nothing.I shorted across this solenoid and the motor turned over real fast,way plenty to start.But something between the start button and the solenoid isnt corrected right.The solenoid off the 83 I connected to the 86 just like it was.The fact the solenoid made the motor turn over and the starter spun fast is good.But I dont know what is up now.Plus after i bridged the posts of the solenoid again after giving up now the bike just drags,like the battery is dead or the starter drags.But I know both the starter and solenoid and battery are hot.I give up.I had it running good yesterday.

Thanks Arizona.Will do.So far this has been a good $200 investment

Great news for me pretty much! I left the "hot" battery on the charger for over 24 hours.I put it back in last night and voila.The lights all came back on, the motor turned over real well, pretty fast rpms.I put the choke on and it started.I let it idle several minutes.I was so happy.I gradually got it to run with the choke off and giving it a little throttle. I turned it off, ran to autozone,put some seafoam in, restrarted the bike.After a few more minutes the bike ran better and better.But everything but the tailight quit again.I never heard the fan come on and the motor started smoking a little so i turned it off.I only had distilled water in the radiator.I will put premixed 50/50 in the radiator tomorrow.I see there is a drainplug in the manual. I am so glad i didnt start pulling and replacing parts.The battery place had told me they had charged the battery since it was over 12 hours since I ordered it online.They lied. I will have to rig a toggle switch to make the fan come on.I need to figure that out and why the neutral light,horn, and headlight are not right.The headlight hi and low worked great till I left and came back.All input appreciated.

when i sold my first 83 nearly 20 years ago i had fabricated forward controls rather crudely but they worked.The shift pattern changed to upside down.Now I know why.I had always wondered.Moreso now because i was going to make more fc for the current 83.

Yes.sometimes thats the only option