garyS-NJ

Yes thanks!!!!

ok I found an ebay TCI says '86-93 TCI with P/N 41R-11 and type TID14-34. can I use this to replace my 41R-10 type TID14-28 for my 1984 XVZ12??

omg, reworked the TCI with 8 new diodes and ohmed it out as best I could and reflowed connections and it still didn't work. I noticed damage on one of the daughterboards (where the brown goop was) and there was an open across a film resistor where on the other board I measured 420 ohm. so I just put in three resistors to replace the film resistor and fingers crossed. word to others, don't remove the brown goop from a daughterboard as this might have lifted my resistor.. but the tci is doing exactly what it did before (no advance) so I don't think I damaged it (maybe just the brown goop with moisture corroded the film resistor away..). Anyone have a spare TCI to sell?

Thanks.. I got an ignition key cut with the code off the original key by a locksmith.. but the bags were just jammed

Oh and it was the brown goop that discolored the #18 duaghterboard. Maybe it was acid cure.

Haha yes. The diodes looked bad corroded. And the brown goop I assume was for water protection almost seemed randomly applied. I'd like to re-goop it but with what? Fish tank sealer? The brown goop was nice in that it was pliable yet tacked some big caps. . And it flowed and sealed yet peeled up for rework. Rtv won't peel.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/27/617870ff3096631cd772d176f313bc63.jpg Cleaned the brown goop but before I touched the #18 daughter board, I noticed it was missing a chip where the other board has the chip (right under the #18). Are these two boards supposed to be the same?? My problem with tci is I have no advance with rpm.

Off the hook

YICS is in the spare parts box and I plugged the hoses with bronze stud hacked down to plug size. will take the long YICS hoses next time carbs come off. And the TCI? I about 5 seconds patience trying to unscrew it and the pressure sensor. So I hack sawed the right ear and snapped it with a screwdriver. and then hacksawed the left ear a little and snapped that one too (I might have skipped sawing that one.). A new friend came by with his repaired TCI which got the bike revving but she seemed a little tired. I measured head temps and found #2 wasn't running. he's like wow, his bike was doing same with the TCI (so he came by to check out his TCI too).. Inside my TCI looks like cruddy death (water corrosion) and the 8 diodes were gone or almost gone with corrosion (they must be living with 12VDC applied and then moisture sets up a galvanic corrosion.). so I got 8 new diodes (different types and not the 1N4009 that came stock.). I have 1N5402 diodes (3 amps and 200 peak inverse voltage). these diodes are kinda chunky but would fit mounted off the board a little. and I have 1.5A with 1000PIV I bought as radio shack 276-1114. The package says 1.5amps but when I google to find out what type of generic this is I see everywhere the 276-1114 is a 2.5amp diode. think I'm going with this diode because of the higher peak inverse voltage.

Houdini came in my can. I sprayed the lock and also the area with the latches and plastic malleted and pried the area with the latches and eventually both bags opened. I'm still afraid to close tho because I haven't got a clear shot of the latches. the hooks go into the recess and I want to be sure my key is releasing the recessed lock.

thanks Doug! and all. I was hoping the tech smart would have a search FUNCTION.. mY DOWNLOADED FACTORY MANUAL is a pdf but not searchable.. Also, Doug, you pictures and diagrams look clear on the 40" monitor? If I blow up the pics and diagrams onl my laptop, they are very grainy.. the search, and grainy pics, and some blacked out pages is why my downloaded factory manual isn't cutting it. (I figure if I print that manual then the pics will be dark and grainy like on the monitor//) - but some folks printed a downloaded copy! can anyone share a link? maybe I missed something.

I figured as a rectifier, the forward current is the max conducting current so 1 amp or higher should do.. the higher amp diodes were larger for more heat dissipation.. and the higher breakdown voltage could only be a safety margin on breakdown... so I can put in the 1.5A 1000V diodes (IDK generic P/N), or the 3amp 200PIV diodes (1n5402), otherwise I bought a variety pack of their little 1amp diodes.. I'm desoldering now and seeing what I can fit (biggest body, 3amps I'd think unless switching time is an issue). the 1N4009 capacitance is 4pf. the 4001 thru 4004 capacitance is 15pf and the 4005- 4007 is 8pf. I think the lower capacitance would switch faster??

The reverse voltage is a breakdown limit.. right?

Oops. I figured I should get higher reverse voltage and higher current diodes. Bought 1.5amps at 1000v and 3 amps at 200v hoping to fit the 3amp diodes in....

isolated my no ignition advance problem to my TCI: I tried someone elses TCI and it didn't fire number 2 (that was his problem) but it ran pretty good and didn't backfire out carbs as I reved it. horaay. so I opened it up and he pointed out the diodes her replaced. Mine were disintegrating.. I've read that will kill the TCI but my bike does idle nice and I figure I should try to repair this tci... I also read that any 1N400X diode will replace the 1N4009. Is that a definite reliable fix? going to radio shack

I'm looking for a hardcopy manual because I'm not really happy enough with the digital manual I found on our website here. anyone have experience with the TechSpark manual on CD? otherwise Clymer or Haynes?

Yes heat & especially temp cycking accelerates end of life in ekectronics & solder. & they shield water & dirt out the spark plug area. Maybe I'll keep them. Coils are there too. But I'm moving the tci and that yics is GONE.

the black plastic heat shields above the heads. the front one is out and I need to re-install or pull the back one. do I need them?

I took mine off yesterday and didn't detect a leak visually or by blowing or sucking on it. didn't bother to put a vac pump on it as the thing just looks too stupid to be of value. the tiny holes on the inlets couldn't allow for a whole lot of anything in my opinion and I'm thinking this was a flawed design attempt that quickly got dropped. bike looks better withyout it too (I ditched my side plastics that grill thing.). now for the black plastic heat shields above the heads. the front one is out and I need to re-install or pull the back one. do I need them?

I know the crankcase has to breath. Just not into the airbox. My dumb question.

I'm chasing down a problem where my '84 backfires out the carbs as I rev it above 2500rpm.. I see in the timing inspection port that the timing isn't advancing (it jitters around) so I'm looking at electricals but I have had multiple problems in the past and this bike is a resurrection I bought cheap (seized motor).. So as I hunt, I'm going through it and with reports of YICS chambers splitting, I'm thinking I should ditch it (I'd like to ditch half the **** on this bike). So does the YICS really make a difference? I'm doing fine without my appendix. also, what about the crankcase breather that goes into the airbox. what a pain installing the box with this thing.. it was falling apart so I put a longer hose on it that is hitting the throttle linkage. I'm thinking put a small breather on there or a hose loop and plug the airbox/. thoughts?

Yes, thanks. 1984.. AND IT'S STILL NOT RUNNING!!

dumb question but I did look in my dumb manual./// for my 1987 XVZ12, what is the resistance in the spark plug caps?? 10K or 5K???

ANd BTW, with my current pressure sensor only reaching 0.8V at 26inch HG, do I need to get to 0.5V??

Gary did I read somewhere that you sell replacement tci?