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hoochster

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Posts posted by hoochster

  1. It appears the links are the same. I checked the yamaha site and the links for an '05 RSTD and and an '05 RSV are the same. The shocks are different though. But with the links having the same part number (4XY-2217M-00-00, listed as arm on the rear arm) I think I am safe on getting the diamond R leveling links. I will probably order them in a few days as this will be a good time to put them on before the really nice weather starts. I read the article about making some but since I don't have a drill press nor a clamp I guess the next best thing is to just purchase them (unless someone out there has some they want to sell). Thanks for the replies and idea to check the part numbers! IN case anyone is interested here is the link once again on how to make them so you don't have to search for it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/suspension-tires-handlebars-etc-/492-leveling-links-raising-rear-rsv.html I don't know how to hyperlink in here so you will have to copy and paste :)

  2. I realize this is an old thread but I have to ask the question. Are the leveling links required for an 05 RSTD? I ask because the Diamond R Accessories website does not list them as an item for an RSTD and upon calling them they state the RSTD has a different shock system then an RSV. Can anyone confirm this for me. Does anyone have the leveling links on their 2nd geen RSTD?

  3. Ok, so today I did a carb synch with the carbtune. My reading prior to the synch were cylinder: 1=26, 2=22, 3=30 and 4=36. After the synch they were all roughly 27 CMHG. My front right cylinder still doesn't get as hot as the rest at idle but it did get warm. within about 1 min. So, I am thinking maybe it needs a valve job. I know it hasn't had a valve job since I have owned it. I bought it used in 2010 and have put about 20,000 miles on it (current miles is 32,800). It did it for a year from end of 2012-end of 2013 (Not sure if that would have anything to do with the anything just thought I'd mention it). A carb job done by dealer in MAR of 2014 from it sitting.

     

    On a separate note, I ended up putting a slit in one of the hoses while pulling it off for the synch. It isn't very big but is there anything I can put on it to seal it or do I have to replace it? Just looking for a temp fix until the winter ends but may ride a little during winter so I thought I would ask. Thanks!

  4. Attached is a pic of where I sprayed the carb cleaner to see if the idle changes as goose suggested. Is that the correct place? I just want to ensure I am testing it correctly since I didn't get any change. I only prayed it for a couple seconds because I wasn't sure how long and didn't know if carb cleaner is corrosive on the other parts of the bike.

     

    CARB PIC.jpg

  5. I did try that test and nothing happened. I am assuming I did it correctly. I took the "rubber boot" off of the vacumm thing (Assumed it is the "Vaccumm Nipple that was referred to) and sprayed some carb cleaner in it and there was no change. The hole was really small but I think I was able to get the cleaner in it. I order the Carbtune on Thursday and will try to synch once it comes in. He is absolutely correct in me not being a huge mechanic so this is all new to me and I am not the original owner so not sure if anything was done to the bike prior to me owning it.

  6. I am looking at purchasing the Carbtune Pro and an RPM gauge from Amazon and was just wondering if I also need the 6mm adapter set. I also wanted to ensure the RPM gauge I was looking at would work. Below are the sites for the items.

     

    Carbtune Pro: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K7JHWA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=S0RMJOWIVABC&coliid=I28MGDK4GBEXMZ

     

    Adapters: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OO4PWG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=S0RMJOWIVABC&coliid=I2WTJSHS19E99R

     

    RPM Gauge: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ON0BM82/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=S0RMJOWIVABC&coliid=I3KS1I658XDU60

     

    If anyone has any suggestions for a gauge that would be appreciated as well. Thanks!

  7. Hey Goose, I just want to verify that the readings I got from the secondary were not to far out of spec so that I can rule out the coil as being bad before I take it to the shop to let them figure it out. The specs on the secondary were:

     

    The secondary (Again, as I understand it, from the wire on the coil to the end of the plug cap) was as follows: 200k = 21.0,

     

    The Clymer's book shows the resistance as being between something like 8,000 and 16,000 Ohms. Unfortunately I left the book at work so I can't verify those numbers. Or maybe it's between 12,000 and 16,000. Either way I think the highest number was around 16,000.

     

    Also would it do any good to swap the front right and front left coil wires to test?

     

    I just thought of something else while going through the threads tonight. When we pulled the jets I think we put them back in all the way down. It seems that the pilot jet should be set out an x amount of turns. Seems the basic standard without an analyzer is 2 1/2 turns. I guess I should check that to verify. I just have to verify which one is the pilot jet. lol

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