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Attempting to change my starter clutch however, the flywheel won't budge.

 

OK so, I took the centre flywheel bolt out and inserted the puller's pointy end into the cavity below the washers, so I surmise (hope) I have it against the end of the main shaft. I have the puller tightened up pretty good. I am applying heat with a 1200 watt electric paint stripping heat gun, whacking the f/w with a mallet but it isn't shifting.

 

To tighten the puller, I am levering with a steel bar about 24 inches long in one hand and a piece of iron pipe extending the wrench handle out to about 15 inches in the other. I have pushed this combo till its just about as tight as I can get it, so the puller is pretty tight.

 

I have been playing the heat into the centre of the f/w trying to be even with it around the f/w.

 

Any thing else I need to know?

 

Is 1200 Watts enough heat, or should I break out the flame?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

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Yeah it will come off hard i just did mine a few months ago, i didnt use any heat but used a real good puller and a 1/2 drive air impact wrench,make sure to have something on the floor for the flywheel to land on when it comes off, it will pop off of the crank with out any warning and will fly about a foot.have fun.:080402gudl_prv:

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Take a dull punch and stick it against the inside sleeve of the flywheel that goes over the crankshaft. Give it a good whack and be prepared for the flywheel to come off, as in having something under the flywheel for it to land on.

This is the same as impacting the loop on the end of a car tie rod end. You are slightly deforming the metal for a fraction of a second and causing it to give.

You will have to do it at a bit of an angle and I hope your puller is not in the way, but it does work, or at least it worked for me on two different engines.

RandyA

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Yep thats what my first puller looked like and then i got my snap on puller from work and between the impact wrench and hitting it with a drift punch it came off with a pop,keep going your gonna get it.your fighting a taper shaft and a key way.

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I broke my puller in exactly the same way... but it wasn't a "top quality" puller... so I went to Kragen and rented a "real" one. And it STILL took a wrench on the end of the rotor at 90 degrees (to keep it from turning) and had the wrench locking onto a vertical piece of wood (my third hand) and that allowed me to put a "cheater" tube on the breaker bar on the puller and kept turning.

 

Those two pillows under the puller came in real handy and caught the rotor when it popped of, sounding like a gun shot !

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I made a Spacer on the Lathe inside Diameter a little more than the Bolt's outside, outside Diameter a little smaller than the Rotor's inside and about 4 mm high. Put the Spacer between Bolt Head and Crank. Perfect Stopper for the flying Rotor and.

 

 

Other than this, i second Mike's Statement. you know the saying here ...

 

Mighty is the the Wrenchers Force if he works with Cheater Tubes

 

(maybe a bad Translation, but TRUE!!!)

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Well I persisted. Tried several tactics but heat and lots of it seemed to be the answer. I got out the flame and played the flame on the inner hub for what seemed like an eternity. Suddenly, just as predicted, CRACK, and it was on the floor! Shot off about a foot just as predicted by the sages here. The photo below shows how it fell.

 

http://home.powergate.ca/~bjh/pix/P0002610-800.jpg

 

I have since accessed the starter clutch and found the problem. The copper coloured disc is cracked just like the one pictured in the tech page write up here in the first gen tech library.

 

I am still reassembling, hopefully I'll have it all back together ASAP.

 

Thanks for the help and moral support.

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont

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Good Job !!

 

Put a Piece of Wood under the left Leg of the Centerstand. About 6/8 or 1 Inch thick might do the Trick.

 

It will help you keeping the Axles of the Gears and the Axels itself in Place until you got the Stator Cover on. There's no need to ask how i came to that Conclusion.

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