FRont Wheel Bearings

[dna9656]

I may have read before what I'm about to post here on our wonderful forum or elsewhere, but regardless I think it needs repeating. I wish I took pics yesterday while I performed this service!

Based on what I have read here on the forum to remove the wheel bearings start on the right bearing (the one opposite of the speedo mechanism) you can use a drift and a hammer. Slide the spacer (located between the left and right bearing) away from the bearing you are removing and gently hammer (you'll need a drift with a sharp corner on the business end to catch the edge of the inner ace) the back side of the bearing you are removing at the inner most circumference of the bearing on the far side of the spacer. Then you can use a socket whose diameter is no less than that of the outside diameter of the spacer) and extension with your hammer against the spacer to drive the other bearing out from the same side the first bearing was removed from.

I don't like the first part of the above method because 1) I don't have a drift long enough to reach, and 2) I don't have a square drift...

I heated the hub around the bearing to expand the aluminum to allow the use of a Pilot Bearing Puller (sometimes called a Blind Hole Bearing Puller; you can borrow these at the local Auto Parts stores, I got mine from NAPA) and the bearing came out quick and easy! Then, I turned the wheel around, applied a squirt of WD-40 (I don't know if it really penetrated (helped) or not but I did it anyway) Then using my trusty Lisle bearing/seal driver set and 3/8" X 8" socket extension with the Legacy Force Applier (Hammer, w/short handle, 2.5 Lbs.) and with some light tapping drove the other bearing from it's home.

To install the All Balls Racing Bearings, I reversed the process, BUT I left a LIGHT coating of grease inside and outside the spacer and shield assembly and each bearing's home for 2 reasons, the bearing and spacer are made of steel, the hub is made of aluminum, a sure recipe for corrosion should any humidity or water get in there. I saw NO CORROSION in the bearing homes but a little bit of grease is cheap rust insurance. The second reason I applied grease to the bearing home and the outer circumference of the bearing is to help the bearing move in the very tight home it sits in, I bet the machinists here on the forum would call the hole and bearing clearance an "Interference Fit" (if it's not it's AWFULLY CLOSE to one!) I installed the last bearing first using the tried and true hammer/driver method and (now this is important!) Next I installed the second bearing using grease and the aforementioned bearing driver set and hammer.

TIP: Never install a bearing (roller or ball, sealed or not) by pushing or pulling on the inner race; always use the OUTER race or a bearing driver disk. The disk should be no smaller that the inner diameter of the outer race. Unless you're removing the old bearing; the mission there is to get the old bearing (you won't be reusing the old bearing) OUT, just don't screw up it's home!

Use a LITTLE heat (especially on aluminum as it has a low melting temp.) to expand the housing hosting the bearing, the aluminum will heat faster than the steel bearing inside it. The bearing will come "right out" with minimum force. I suppose you should use heat to install the bearing too, it's prolly the preferred method....The Yamaha manual doesn't address HOW to remove/install the bearing, it just tells you to do it. Using heat Is one of those things that's "good shop practice" So on the rear wheel I will use the heat to install as well as remove the bearings. In my 36 years maintaining aircraft, cars/trucks and ships I personally have never seen heat used to install a bearing.

 

From https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/melting-temperature-metals-d_860.html

 

[TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD][TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD]Iron, Gray Cast[/TD]

[TD] 1127 - 1204c[/TD]

[TD] 2060f - 2200f[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD]Magnesium 650c 1200f[/TD]

[TD][/TD]

[TD][/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD][TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD]Magnesium Alloy[/TD]

[TD] 349 - 649c[/TD]

[TD] 660 - 1200f (Ain't much is it?) The Oil Filter Cover is made of Magnesium.[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[/TD]

[TD][/TD]

[TD][/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

 

[TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD]Iron, Gray Cast[/TD]

[TD] 1127c - 1204c [/TD]

[TD] 2060f - 2200f[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

 

[TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD]Aluminum[/TD]

[TD] 660c[/TD]

[TD] 1220f (Ain't much is it?) Beer Cans?[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

 

[TABLE=class: medium]

[TR]

[TD]Aluminum Alloy[/TD]

[TD] 463 - 671c[/TD]

[TD] 865f - 1240f (For our purposes it's about the same as Non-Alloy Aluminum)[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]