rear brake pad replacement

[Ay_Dee]

Guys, I'm new here, also new to a 2003 midnight venture

 

I am looking to fit new rear brake pads, can't seem to find a video of this on youtube, or here for that matter - How hard is it to do this. Do I just need to remove the rights side panier, or do I have to do the muffler as well.

 

Thanks in advance (yes I did use the search button!)

 

Alan

[MikeWa]

It is pretty easy. I just remove the luggage.

 

Mike

[bongobobny]

Yup! Remove saddlebag, then the plastic dust cover on the caliper followed by the little clips on the pins and the pins themselves. I like to unbolt the caliper then spray with brake parts cleaner, and use an old toothbrush to get the crud off of the pistons! After cleaning, you will need to "force" the pistons back in as far as they will go, I usually use a small pry bar before I remove the old pads.

 

You may notice one pad will be worn more than the other side, this is kind of normal, many of us routinely reverse the pads at say 5000 miles to promote even wear...

[vzuden]

Before pressing the pistons in as Bongobob described you may also want to remove the cover on the master cylinder and cover with a rag or suck some brake fluid out with a syringe. The brake fluid displaced in the caliper needs some place to go.

If the brake fluid hasn't been replaced within the last two years, now would be a good time to do that too.

[bongobobny]

What vzuden said is only correct if you or someone else added brake fluid. If none was added then you still have the original volume of fluid and the level will just return to it's original level. Because the bike is new to you, you have no way of knowing so what he said is very valid.

 

While we are on the subject, though, are you aware that all hydraulic fluids (clutch and brake) should be flushed and replaced at regular intervals?? My personal interval is every 4 years but others may say every other year. Brake fluid can and will develop moisture in it reducing it's effectiveness, and cause all sorts of other problems as it really ages. I have seen really old fluid actually crystalize and plug up calipers and master cylinders. You can't tell the condition of your hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder because for all intents and purposes the volume in the reservoir never moves past the master cylinder, it can look clear and clean while the "working" fluid in the lines and caliper could be, and most likely is, a nasty black color.

 

Yes, the same DOES apply to automotive brakes but very few people are aware of this. Let's face it, the average Cage driver only knows how to put the key in it and put gas into it, everything else is a total mystery...

[MikeWa]

Actually when pressing the piston back into the caliper it is best to open the bleeder a little. Use a hose and container to catch the fluid. That way fluid is forced out of the system rather than pushed back into the master cylinder. This greatly reduces the chances of damage to the system. When finished be sure to top off the fluid.

 

Mike

[Ay_Dee]

Thank You, you guys are awesome!

 

I'll give it a bash this weekend.

 

Alan