JMNTX Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share #26 Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) I synched them all to 24Mc.Three turn out on the air mixture screws was where they were at. I moved them around but that's where it runs best. I checked to make sure I've got power to the vacuum boost and vacuum pump, yes. It runs the same with the vacuum line removed from either or both. I don't know how to see if they're working. I tried a little spit on the pump opening when I pulled the line off, it wasn't drawing when I revved to what it will do about 2K. It'll do 3k when it gets warm Edited January 23, 2016 by JMNTX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share #27 Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) I checked the library about pressure sensors it says "First check to see if it holds vacuum" This may sound dumb but how do you do that? I also checked all the fuses and cleaned all the battery cables and the tank vent hose. I also ordered a used pressure sensor from ebay Edited January 24, 2016 by JMNTX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 24, 2016 Share #28 Posted January 24, 2016 I synched them all to 24Mc.Three turn out on the air mixture screws was where they were at. I moved them around but that's where it runs best. I checked to make sure I've got power to the vacuum boost and vacuum pump, yes. It runs the same with the vacuum line removed from either or both. I don't know how to see if they're working. I tried a little spit on the pump opening when I pulled the line off, it wasn't drawing when I revved to what it will do about 2K. It'll do 3k when it gets warm There is no vacuum pump involved with the ignition. Only vacuum pump is for the cruise control. The two are not related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 24, 2016 Share #29 Posted January 24, 2016 I checked the library about pressure sensors it says "First check to see if it holds vacuum" This may sound dumb but how do you do that? I also checked all the fuses and cleaned all the battery cables and the tank vent hose. I also ordered a used pressure sensor from ebay Use a Mity-Vac (or similar) to apply vacuum to the Boost Sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share #30 Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) I've got three boost sensors now, besides the one that was on the bike I bought one from the salvage yard and another used one from ebay. It's possible but not likely they're all three bad. Still won't rev past 3k. There were two little pin holes in one diaphragm. I finely had them out in the sunlight and found them. They wouldn't be the cause would they? I read about someone talking about a place to buy new ones somewhere. I might as well since I'm in there. Also I read about checking the float levels. They looked ok when I had them open. I don't know how they would get off to begin with. I know just enough to know I don't know anything. Edited January 25, 2016 by JMNTX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mralex714 Posted January 25, 2016 Share #31 Posted January 25, 2016 I've gone through almost the same thing. It turned out to be an intermittent fuel pump. When it would stall I would leave the key and tap the pump which then click and run, that's how I came to the pump conclusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share #32 Posted January 25, 2016 I went straight to the filter after that the pump. The one I bought is the one that's on there now. Both would shoot water across the room. I'm going to get a Mityvac when Northern Tool wakes up this morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share #33 Posted January 27, 2016 Not sure from what I read is it SD-1 or SD-2 for mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 27, 2016 Share #34 Posted January 27, 2016 Not sure from what I read is it SD-1 or SD-2 for mine You should buy four SD-1 here: http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?search=search&make=2&model=xvz&part=1&partno=&x=25&y=13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share #35 Posted February 10, 2016 Sirius was out of SD-1 will have more in a week or two. I took them all the way apart soaked them in chem-dip a day for each then blew them out with the compressor. I smeared a little black silicone on the diaphragms where the holes were. re-assembled installed and synched them. Still acting strange, the idle after warm up is about 2K. The idle screw is backed all the way out I can see slack in the cables when I twist it forward. But what worries me most is the right front carb if I put my three fingers over the throat the beast will red line when I twist the throttle but falls on its face about 3K if I don't. That's the only one it will do it on. I've got another carb set I took the one I needed out I'm soaking it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share #36 Posted March 12, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share #37 Posted March 12, 2016 in the description it says SD-10 that's not right is it these are the ones right???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share #38 Posted March 12, 2016 Also do you need to take the forks all the way apart just to change the seals? Is there anyway to take off the air fittings so I can slip the seal down from the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share #39 Posted March 16, 2016 One of the float valves was stuck I thought I had checked them all out. The beast is running like the one I remember now. Something is going on in the front sounds like it's bottoming out on bumps or when you raise up and come down hard on the seat. I swapped my 90 triple tree for an 86 which looked in better shape it was doing all this before the swap. I've checked the lower bearing it looked good I replaced the upper it was in bad shape. I changed the fork seals and filled with 13.5 oz of 15 weight oil. My class system is working. I put 17 pounds in the front but it still does it. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted March 16, 2016 Share #40 Posted March 16, 2016 Have the springs ever been changed? That is often the cause of the bottoming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMNTX Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share #41 Posted March 17, 2016 No but I'm trying to place an order with skydoc for the springs and that coolant drain valve cause it's leaking too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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