Looking for plan of attack for coolant leak

[Droneh8tr]

So I've rebuilt by 83s engine. My ridiculous oil consumption is gone, but my coolant is continuing to disappear. So what I'm looking for is a plan to find and fix the leak(s). FYI, I'm still getting a little off white goo in the air box.

Firstly, determine where it could be leaking from...

 

Externally.. Simple, pressurize the system and look for a hose, weep hole or gasket to leak. Use a dye to help this process.

 

Internally.. The list I come up with would be the head gasket, water pump seals, twinkie, coolant tubes in the heads. So, because I've got a little coolant in my AIRBOX, I would think I should look most closely at these areas. Any other areas I should consider?

But, how do I determine WHICH is leaking?

I was thinking I could remove the valve covers, pressurize the system, and look for any leak from the coolant tubes or the head gaskets in the channel the cam chain runs in.

As for the water pump or twinkie, I was thinking to drain the system, pressurize the system and listen for a leak. This, I would think, would also work for the coolant tubes and head gasket.

 

So you see my dilemma, I'm looking for a logical approach to solving where my coolant is going..

 

Or dare I say that maybe I should just leave it as it isn't too bad.

I would prefer not to use any additive to the coolant that would find the leak and seal it, BUT, if this has proven successful for anyone, I would like to know. Thanks for any input to help me.

[Marcarl]

You started a new thread, so refresh us on the some of the issue.

How much are you loosing?

When do you seem to be loosing it,,, sitting or riding?

Does it stay up during a ride or are you loosing it while riding?

Are you checking the bottle and the rad?

[Droneh8tr]

You started a new thread, so refresh us on the some of the issue.

How much are you loosing?

When do you seem to be loosing it,,, sitting or riding?

Does it stay up during a ride or are you loosing it while riding?

Are you checking the bottle and the rad?

 

I would say I'm loosing about 2oz per 400 miles

ive only checked it after the ride.. It rises because of expansion, but afterwards it's less than when I started.

yes, the rad is showing full all the time, the bottle is what's dropping.

[Marcarl]

First off let it suck the bottle dry and see if the rad goes down and keeps going down. That can tell you where the leak might be, system or overflow.

[Patch]

In older aluminum engines rebuilt or not, it is common practice to use the Bars Leaks.

This has been a persistent problem for you I guess, if a leak is what is happening, it could be from a hairline or threaded passage; lets say by some chance you find it, then what?

 

Unless you missed sealing something or a rubber part is worn, and or like Marcarl suggest, over flow, then I would use the Bars!

 

I prefer the old formula but its seems hard to find now, Bar's know what they're doing, have been make a good product forever. If you had a major leak then....

 

http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-aluminum-cooling-system-stop-leak/

 

SG

[Droneh8tr]

In older aluminum engines rebuilt or not, it is common practice to use the Bars Leaks.

This has been a persistent problem for you I guess, if a leak is what is happening, it could be from a hairline or threaded passage; lets say by some chance you find it, then what?

 

Unless you missed sealing something or a rubber part is worn, and or like Marcarl suggest, over flow, then I would use the Bars!

 

I prefer the old formula but its seems hard to find now, Bar's know what they're doing, have been make a good product forever. If you had a major leak then....

 

http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-aluminum-cooling-system-stop-leak/

 

SG

This has been a persistent problem. Fortunately its MUCH less now after the rebuild.

Bars leak, interesting.. Never heard of it, but I'm not against trying it. BUT, I am hesitant. Look at the picture I've included. The PO used such a sealant and literally plugged orifices all throughout the coolant system. It was an absolute mess. Now, i do think the PO used too much, hence the extensive plugging of large passages.

 

Now to your question.. if I "find it, then what?" I've never been very inclined to not repair a known problem. But of course the problem has to be located first. Once its found, replace the defective part(s). That would be my normal course of action.

But I also have to be a realist. Spend possibly crazy amount of time and money to locate and fix this properly or use a technique which has been a track record of success. Which your telling me Bars Leak does.

I'm going to try and locate the problem, hopefully someone will chime in with a technique to help me do that. I'm thinking to drain the system, pressurize the system and listen for the leak. I'll decide from there to replace parts or use a sealant like you've suggested. Thanks for recommending the product.

[Patch]

I did look at the pic, looks like what we see is gasket material or some stop leak that backed up to it??

The thing is, is for you follow through with one application! But the engine needs to reach operating temp, and often for more than one pressure cycle! The solids must too locate the "say fracture" so a pinhole will plug quickly, a hairline will need to fill completely, likely it will take longer for a fracture, as there are X parts per LT of particulate! Know what I mean; so how quick it will work depends on what the problem/fault is, for those that are inpatient -and add and add, well that makes its own- new problem.

 

As for if you could find it you would do the right thing; I have no doubt, finding it- when it's internal, well now that I know is doubtful- and is why we use Bars!

Remember we are talking because you have already opened it and changed all that needed changing!!!!!!!!!!

Patch

[Marcarl]

If you can pressurize the system and be able to keep an eye on the pressure, then that is going to be helpful. I would start with coolant in the system, that way something has to show up somewhere,,, right? ya right!, but that's what I would think anyways. If you pressurize without coolant, be sure to remove the spark plugs so that area will be covered as well.

Keep us posted.

[Droneh8tr]

Thanks all for the help.. Last night I pressurized the system, but ultimately I didn't find or hear anything... I feel better for having tried. I know I could do more, but the probability of finding exactly what the problem is is diminishing. I've decided to go with Steven G.s suggestion and put some Bars Leaks in. I've ridden it to work today and am keeping an eye on the fluid level.. Hopefully I'll have a positive outcome.

Marcal, thanks for the reminding me about the spark plugs.. I really didn't have those in mind.

[Patch]

Wanted to ask this, have you noticed any bubbles in in the coolant?

And after changing the rings how was the compression?

 

Finger crossed for the Bars, hope it works for you.

[Droneh8tr]

Wanted to ask this, have you noticed any bubbles in in the coolant?

And after changing the rings how was the compression?

 

Finger crossed for the Bars, hope it works for you.

I haven't see any bubbles.

I haven't done a compression test yet, i was allowing them to wear in first. But, I am at the point of doing it. I'll do it this weekend and get back to you.

I've ridden the bike to work again and am keep close eye on things..

I'll let you all know how it works..

[Patch]

I haven't done a compression test yet, i was allowing them to wear in first. But, I am at the point of doing it. I'll do it this weekend and get back to you.

 

Man I wouldn't be able to sleep not knowing compression results after assembly, of course only after breaking in the rings counts for a real reading.

[Droneh8tr]

As promised, I got the compression results this afternoon..

1 151

2 158

3 159

4 159

Ive put nearly 1000 miles on it since the rebuild, my issues have been minor, EXCEPT, the coolant loss. Per the suggestion of Steven G., I put Bars Leak in the coolant and have driven it many times hoping to work the sealant into wherever the leak was. Well, I'm satisfied with my observation that the leak has slowed. This coming weekend I'm taking a MC trip and will continue to watch my coolant level.

[Patch]

Share some thoughts with you.

 

I looked through the rebuild posts but didn't see anything that refers to machining, so my comments are based on minimum machining.

 

If I look at the test scores I think you did ok, I also think small budget.

My guess from over here is honing?

 

Also there was some very good advice given in one of the post,by (Doug?) I think, regarded looking for fractures, but again that would be part of the machining.

 

That aside, I can say with some certainty, providing the leakage is outside of the compression area, below the rings or beyond the head chamber, the Bars should work; providing the head mating falls within spec!

 

Also keep an eye out for white smoke, you will kill it if you run with that!

 

All in all looks like the engine is running well within spec.

 

Enjoy the ride and the season

 

Patch

[Patch]

Hi Droneh

Got to thinking about your up coming trip and thought I'd offer you a quick patch for the leak. This doesn't replace the Bar's, it is temporary but effective, 1 level TBS of pepper through the rad cap, if you have any concerns about leakage on your trip.

 

Like I said it's temporary and can be filtered out through a strainer, not unlike a windshield washer strainer you find on most car reservoirs.

 

I'm not making this up' it's been around for ever, it's harmless..

 

Patch

[Droneh8tr]

Well everyone.. I can report GREAT success with Bars Leaks.

I'm back from my ride of 935 miles, and 2146 miles since my engine rebuild and I have NO leaks.. The oil level remained constant and the reservoir level rose and fell with the engine temperature and NO off white goo in the airbox..

 

My course was:

Richmond VA, Axton VA, Blue Ridge parkway to Linn Cove Viaduct, Linville Falls, Mt. Mitchell, stopped to help a Harley rider whos stator failed, Maggie Valley NC to see Wheels through Time, Biltmore Estate, Weyersville VA, Appomattox VA and finally back to Richmond...

Right now I'm putting on new brake and clutch lines to hopefully help with the stopping. This year I expect way more rides as my projects have started to come to an end..

Any other projects will just have to wait for the winter time layup..

Thanks everyone for your help and a special shout out to Steven G for taking the time to recommend Bars Leak.