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little yamaha gremlins


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hey guys, hope all is well for you, I have a issue I am working on. I hope you may have a few words of advise.

bike, 2006 v star 650.

rebuilt carbs and put them on.

bike will run on choke. if you hit the throttle, it quits. it acts like its running out of fuel.

its also throwing a engine code off the engine light on the dash.

6 slow blinks...... 6 fast blinks....

does any one know what that means? I don't have a code book. and the bike shops just want me to bring it in and pay bucks like always.

and can you reset that computer by disconnecting the battery or does it have to be hooked up to there computer to reset it???

I don't think the fuel issue is the code problem because its a carb ran bike and its not injected.

maybe a throttle position sensor issue??? that's kind of what I thought that code may be...not sure..

thank you all for any kind of advise you can help me with...:hurts::bang head::confused24:

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ok, I found this so far,

120 psi compression front cyl 80 psi rear cylinder.

so I guess I would want to go in the direction of valve adjustment. any one ever done one of these? I see you have to use shims. and it looks like you have to get a shim kit.

and do you have to remove the cam shafts? and is this way, way, way, out of my hands?? lol ....

also, with the 6 slow blinks and six fast blinks on the engine light I may have found out, it could be a decompression switch problem..does any one know where that's located? that may be the problem also..

here is the deal, bike sold to another guy by my friend. other guy had it for 2 mos, and came back with a dead cylinder. so I am trying to help my friend because his money is very low and we want to get this problem to go away.

I am a good mechanic on cars, and small engines. but bikes are new to me as far as valve adjustment.

thanks for any advise you can help me with...:backinmyday:

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V-STAR 650 has an adjustable tappet. No shims required.

 

If you're only blowing 80 on a cold rear cylinder you've got big trouble. If they're tight enough to leak cold they're likely to be burned.

 

But I don't think that's your whole problem. A poor compression cylinder behaves better at higher rpm. You've probably still got fuel/air issues.

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