Need an idea related to triggering a power source

[hubbsfd]

I just finished installing a Clarion XC1410 with 4 Infinity Reference 4002cfx 300w speakers and a Kenwood KSC-SW11 amped sub-woofer. Pics attached to see finished install. I’d be glad to discuss the work but overall it’s not hard mainly repetitive and keeping track of what goes where.

Here’s my question. I run the remote power from the head unit power output source which is only live when the head unit is on. That should trigger the amp and sub to power up. The reason it doesn't is the amps require a 12 volt signal and the head unit is only pushing out 10 volts. I have a work around but would still like to have my power to the amps triggered when the head unit comes on. How might I do this? Tie the amps to a device with its own source of power that triggers when it senses the 10 v signal maybe? What’s that device called and where do I buy it?

As always y’all will come to my rescue I am confident.

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[muffinman]

You should be able to get a relay at radio shack that will work with the 10V to trigger it and then run your 12V to the unit

I would look for a solid state relay they have a few different ones in stock at the stores locally

Jeff

[hubbsfd]

You should be able to get a relay at radio shack that will work with the 10V to trigger it and then run your 12V to the unit

I would look for a solid state relay they have a few different ones in stock at the stores locally

Jeff

 

Will do. Thanks much!

[hubbsfd]

Okay so I've talked to Radio Shack and AutoZone and nobody has a clue what to look for. I suggest a relay and they yeah but what relay. They understand what I need but don't know how to cross reference a part to tell me what will work. Unless I know what specific part I need they don't know what to give me off their shelves.

 

Any ideas?

[MikeWa]

Just get a 4-wire fog light or preferable a rear window defroster relay.

 

Mike

[hubbsfd]

Just get a 4-wire fog light or preferable a rear window defroster relay.

 

Mike

 

Like this Mike?

 

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vertexauto.com/UserData/Images/Large/526.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/526%2520Rear%2520Window%2520Defroster%2520Relay.aspx&h=491&w=600&sz=25&tbnid=p0qoXPSByZAzBM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=110&zoom=1&usg=__l9lYk2dbMlHkyeCOyaAekp4qI8Q=&docid=HNZCu1Jr2bPUtM&sa=X&ei=jsYHUoyULujhygHZn4DgDw&ved=0CIQBEPUBMAc&dur=7253#imgdii=p0qoXPSByZAzBM%3A%3BHEfeSeP-Xm5-nM%3Bp0qoXPSByZAzBM%3A

[Flyinfool]

That will work

[JohnT]

Time for a thread hijack. (I don't feel terrible cuz the question has already been answered.)

To wire my accessory block and a chinese alarm unit to a relay what I am thinking is right is this.

To have the alarm "on" when the key is off and shut off alarm /arm accessory panel when key is on I should,

wire 86 to ground

battery power to 30

87 to the accessory block

87a to the alarm

and the accessory power lead (switched when key comes on) to 85

Is this right? Or is it smoke?

[IronMike]

I THINK I sent you a relay in the mail. Meant to. Anyways any relay will do, same as one you used on horn. 86 to ground, 87 to power to trigger amps. 30 to 12V 85 from the head unit that sends out 10V When you flip it on, power goes to 85 draws it from 30 and sends it to 87. You already know this your just excited. Hope I sent ya a Relay, I get em for $4 I meant to send ya one, I bough em on sale.

[hubbsfd]

I THINK I sent you a relay in the mail. Meant to. Anyways any relay will do, same as one you used on horn. 86 to ground, 87 to power to trigger amps. 30 to 12V 85 from the head unit that sends out 10V When you flip it on, power goes to 85 draws it from 30 and sends it to 87. You already know this your just excited. Hope I sent ya a Relay, I get em for $4 I meant to send ya one, I bough em on sale.

 

Hey Mike: Yes you did! Your very kind my friend. That Rescue tape is cool. I might just have to get me a bunch of that stuff. Thanks again mate.

[hubbsfd]

I THINK I sent you a relay in the mail. Meant to. Anyways any relay will do, same as one you used on horn. 86 to ground, 87 to power to trigger amps. 30 to 12V 85 from the head unit that sends out 10V When you flip it on, power goes to 85 draws it from 30 and sends it to 87. You already know this your just excited. Hope I sent ya a Relay, I get em for $4 I meant to send ya one, I bough em on sale.

 

So I have it all hooked up. Everything is as expected with power at 10 v coming from the head unit on 85, ground on 86, 87 has power to trigger amps and 30 is my 12 v input. Leads are hot except for 87. No power going down the line to the amps. What could be wrong here?

[Guest tx2sturgis]

May be too late, but why not run the 12 trigger source from the bike lighting or the ACC connection on the fuses?

 

You would need to turn the key on ACC or ignition, but I dont think you want to run an amp at full power off the bike battery (while the bike is shut off) for long periods of time anyway.

 

It sounds like the 10v trigger from the head unit is not designed to power even a relay, but I'm not sure since I'm not looking at the specs or schematic.

 

 

[hubbsfd]

May be too late, but why not run the 12 trigger source from the bike lighting or the ACC connection on the fuses?

 

You would need to turn the key on ACC or ignition, but I dont think you want to run an amp at full power off the bike battery (while the bike is shut off) for long periods of time anyway.

 

It sounds like the 10v trigger from the head unit is not designed to power even a relay, but I'm not sure since I'm not looking at the specs or schematic.

 

 

 

Yes that is my work around. I tie the remote power wire to a known 12v souce powered when the ACC is on (always on battery tender). But that means the amps both are powered up even when the head unit is off. You may be right about the 10 v from the head unit not even being enough to trigger a relay for some odd reason.

[hubbsfd]

Yes that is my work around. I tie the remote power wire to a known 12v souce powered when the ACC is on (always on battery tender). But that means the amps both are powered up even when the head unit is off. You may be right about the 10 v from the head unit not even being enough to trigger a relay for some odd reason.

 

Just tested that theory. I put an acc hot to the trigger souce and the relay came to life sending 12 v to the remote power wire. The 10 v on coming out of the head unit won't trigger the relay. Dang it now what.

[IronMike]

Man it doesn't take much to trigger a relay but as he said find another power on trigger, Is this Power ANT out? ANyways not familiar with your head unit but Most have two or even three Source on outs. Ant, AMp and sometimes Cell or BT trigger. Personally on my Starley I ran it to a total separate off the batter switch because I often caught my Reckless Fairing and 2 X 6x9's and 2 6'.5's being the life of the party. So I can listen with bike totally off, less drain.

 

I also use a light timer for such circuits, where it kills the power after whatever you set it for after you shut off the bike. Most used as a headlight kill. So I can walk away with the stereo on, and it shuts off in 10 min or so. If I want to keep listening, I just bump the key and restart the timer. JC Whitney has em I am almost sure. I had stock. As you can see, I buy stuff cheap and store it.

 

Just ideas.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Just tested that theory. I put an acc hot to the trigger souce and the relay came to life sending 12 v to the remote power wire. The 10 v on coming out of the head unit won't trigger the relay. Dang it now what.

 

That 10v trigger might be for sending a signal to a matching amp, or possibly, (and keep in mind I'm an OLD FART) its for sending a signal to one of those automatic retracting AM/FM power antennas.

 

There might be a solution, but it would involve one more relay. They are called 'reed relays' and they work with a variety of voltages, and need only a tiny amount of current to engage. Then THAT relay would switch 12 volts to the other relay.

 

Just a thought. Reed relays are cheap, and also fairly delicate, but designed to be triggered even by small batteries. They draw very little current so its possible that the signal lead will be able to power it.

 

You could look at the installation manual to see what the current load is rated at for that signal wire.

 

Then if that yields a value that will trigger a small relay, just google 'reed relay' and prepare to be confused!

 

(easier to do it the KISS way...dontcha think?)

 

I also found this small mini-relay listed on MemoTronics:

 

 

http://www.memotronics.com/product?pid=307

Edited August 11, 2013 by tx2sturgis

[hubbsfd]

I did see those relays in my research but I was afraid they were a bit too delicate for a cycle application. I decided to tie the remote power to an accessory switch I had already run to the front long time ago. I can power the amps on and off manually with that switch. That will work for me just fine I think. I tested every lead coming from the head unit. Either they are constant hot or low voltage. Oh well at least I can shut them down if I don't want them on.

[hubbsfd]

I decided to give one more thing a try. I ordered a small low voltage trigger SS relay. $7.50. I'll try it soon I get it. It will take a 3v trigger. Almost anything should make that one work. Again, I'm trying this just in case that power line that comes to life in the stereo head unit harness reading 10v but actually only powers the little LED in the stereo controller unit. Hope this works but manual on/off is working too. I just hate giving up on a thing.