abusive throttle cranker Posted May 10, 2013 Share #1 Posted May 10, 2013 Well shes running finally! And I took it around the block. Couple questions though. Does interconnecting the brakes yield high pedal pressures? It isn't especially spongy feeling but I do haveta stand on it to get some stopping power. The front ain't so bad. Another thing: it has more decelleration than I'm used to. When I shut the throttle it really slows. No- its not the brakes. Put it in neutral it'll roll. Of course I don't have the idle set yet. With the adjustment buried behind that emissions canister I gotta get home and let it cool b4 I can wiggle my hand in there enough to turn it. Other than that its running pretty good. I'm sure it could smoke the Suzuki VL1500 I was riding. It did backfire a couple times on decel. I put a couple ounces of Techron in the fuel and ran it enough to get into the carb passages. It has 2 half inch holes cut into the air box. I covered them with duct tape but still the square duct piece inside the air box is missing. The one protrudes inside the filter. Is that thing critical? I'd appreciate any comment y'all care to make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted May 10, 2013 Share #2 Posted May 10, 2013 unless the po de-linked them the rear and left front are together on the rear master. Fill and bleed both of those from there. For the front left should be a bleed valve up near your trees and another on the master. You should be able to lock the rear without standing on them, spongy to me usually means bad fluid or air or both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utadventure Posted May 10, 2013 Share #3 Posted May 10, 2013 When bleeding the rear/front left (pedal) brake. Do the rear, then the left front and then the bleeder valve up by the steering head! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abusive throttle cranker Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted May 10, 2013 When I said they weren't especially spongy feeling I should have mentioned I have already bled the rear- then the front. I wasn't aware at the time of the fitting up near the triple trees. Still- air in the system makes em spongy. But why such effort needed to get some response? BTW I've gone thru- all the pads but one were good and I replaced that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamamike Posted May 10, 2013 Share #5 Posted May 10, 2013 unless the po de-linked them the rear and left front are together on the rear master. Fill and bleed both of those from there. For the front left should be a bleed valve up near your trees and another on the master. You should be able to lock the rear without standing on them, spongy to me usually means bad fluid or air or both. And/or the old brake lines are getting weak but that's an extreme case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted May 10, 2013 Share #6 Posted May 10, 2013 gotta keep that rear reservoir filled and it is a pita to fill. You may need to rebuild the rear master also but my money is on air or fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abusive throttle cranker Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted May 10, 2013 I have filled the rear reservoir a coupla times. I have a small baster can handle about half an ounce at a time. I keep saying it ain't spongy and y'all keep sayin air air air. So I'm gonna bleed the upper fitting in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted May 10, 2013 Share #8 Posted May 10, 2013 ok I was focused on breaks, what gear are you in and about how fast are you going when you let off the throttle? Try running down an empty road and pull the clutch in and see if the result with no trans is the same feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 10, 2013 Share #9 Posted May 10, 2013 Yep, that connection at the back of the tree, the "metering valve" can be tricking. But I think the MKII have the bleeder on them unlike the MKI. That valve is the highpoint of the brake lines and that is right where all the air ends up. Wrap a rag around that one before you crack it open. It can get messy. Once you get that cleared out you should get a better feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abusive throttle cranker Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share #10 Posted May 10, 2013 Oh I'm going 20-25 mph in first gear. But I've been riding since they invented dirt- and there is an extry amount of decel there. But then not having idle set may affect that. As it is it'll die if I don't keep some throttle on. Yeah I tried that- kicking it into neutral. There is maybe some drag but nothing like it is in gear. I have yet to sync the carbs though too. Ta hell with a rag lol. I have a length of clear tubing with a hose clamp. I run the other end to a container with a 2x4 across it. Rubber bands around the wood keep the hose positioned. Why do they place the bleeder facing upwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abusive throttle cranker Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted May 11, 2013 Ok I have bled that top fitting and it did help. Its not quite where I feel it should be but not bad. At least I could take it out in traffic. I find it runs hot. It takes a few miles but the temp guage gets up near the red and I must turn on the fan. The PO masticated the fan wiring and made it manual. But its only 85* today! This is Arizona! I gotta do something about this. Maybe go up a size of main jet. I'm gonna pull the plugs and see if its running lean. They set these things up that way and call it emission control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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