leaking oil, stator replacement

[reddevilmedic]

ok. so im leaking oil from the top of the left side case cover. its spraying onto floorboard, not cool. i figure while i have it off, i might as well replace stator. should i go with a Ricks? or someone else. also, which gaskets am i going to need. the parts fiche is a little vague. should i do the r/r also? which vendor for that? any help would be appreciated. thanks.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Mike,

You will need the stator cover gasket, and the middle gear cover gasket, (it has to be removed to get the stator cover off) and that little brass washer at the bottom of the middle gear cover. Be sure to use a GOOD gasket sealer around the rubber plug for the exit of the stator wires as well as the stator cover. (just to be sure) Both Rick's and Buckeye sell High Output stators for the VR. (As do I) Be sure you get the High Output instead of the stock. Consider "hard wiring" the stator and R/R. (cut the quick disconnect plugs out of these two circuits) If your R/R is still good, all will be fine, although there is an aftermarket R/R on the market, that functions better with the high output stator. I have all of the gaskets in stock, and can order the High Output Stator and R/R for a lot less than you would normally pay. If you are interested, feel free to PM me.

Earl

[mbrood]

Guys, you don't have to replace the copper washer. Over time the washer "work hardens" and becomes stiff. But copper is a neat material. Heat it over the flame of your stove until it gets red then let it air cool... this will anneal the metal and it will once again be pliable, ready to be installed again.

[Kirby]

Guys, you don't have to replace the copper washer. Over time the washer "work hardens" and becomes stiff. But copper is a neat material. Heat it over the flame of your stove until it gets red then let it air cool... this will anneal the metal and it will once again be pliable, ready to be installed again.

 

 

Yep I used to do this on some Yamaha two stroke head gaskets. Makes them swell slightly and seal again. Just don't quench them in water, let them air cool.

[mbrood]

Yes, quenching is a tempering process, forcing an immediate "freeze" of the molecule orientation, while air cooling allows the molecules to naturally orient and relax.

 

Take hardened steel, heat to red and let it air cool... it is no longer "tempered".

[jasonm.]

Guys, you don't have to replace the copper washer. Over time the washer "work hardens" and becomes stiff. But copper is a neat material. Heat it over the flame of your stove until it gets red then let it air cool... this will anneal the metal and it will once again be pliable, ready to be installed again.

 

Just torque all case bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs = 86 in/lbs. Nice to have a good torque wrench...or 3 like me:080402gudl_prv: copper washer one too. I keep the same washer for 72k miles of oil changes...Finally, changed it for the heck of it while I also had that cover off. Changing the stator? if it ain't broke....Mine is original and looked like new when I did the starter clutch gear 5 years ago.