Jump to content
IGNORED

seafoam


tbbrider

Recommended Posts

$12 a can! So 2 cans, plus the taxes was over $27!!!!!!

:mo money:

 

 

That pricing is absolutely ridiculous. In the northern midwest Fleet Farm has the stuff set at an everyday price of 6.48/can. It can also be purchased in gallon cans for roughly $49. Wonder if that qualifies as a hazmat. I can't specifically remember seeing it on sale though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been thinking about this... Wouldn't it be better to turn the fuel off and run the carbs dry. Sea Foam will evaporate just like fuel and the varnish in the bowls will still plug things up. In the tank it will still work as a conditioner over the winter... Maybe I'm over thinking things.... ?? :confused07:

 

 

I use to do the very thing you suggest but on a previous winterization thread it was pointed out that even running the carb dry still leaves some fuel to evaporate and varnish plus the seals could dry out and become leaky when you restart. All of that seemed reasonable so I stopped the practice of running the carbs dry. Granted I never had any problems for years running the carbs dry on either my V Star or RVS or prior Kawasakis, I did not want to tempt Murphy's Law. I have found it is much easier to just leave the carbs full and occasionally turn the key on. It takes forever to run them dry and I did not want to drain them manually. The other fact for me is, at the most, my bike is only down 2 to maybe 3 months for winter.

 

Since all of my bikes over the years have survived winter perfectly by winterizing either way, I am not sure it matters much for my short period of storage. If storage was longer, say 6-12 months, I am sure things would be different. :2cents:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use to do the very thing you suggest but on a previous winterization thread it was pointed out that even running the carb dry still leaves some fuel to evaporate and varnish plus the seals could dry out and become leaky when you restart. All of that seemed reasonable so I stopped the practice of running the carbs dry. Granted I never had any problems for years running the carbs dry on either my V Star or RVS or prior Kawasakis, I did not want to tempt Murphy's Law. I have found it is much easier to just leave the carbs full and occasionally turn the key on. It takes forever to run them dry and I did not want to drain them manually. The other fact for me is, at the most, my bike is only down 2 to maybe 3 months for winter.

 

Since all of my bikes over the years have survived winter perfectly by winterizing either way, I am not sure it matters much for my short period of storage. If storage was longer, say 6-12 months, I am sure things would be different. :2cents:

 

As long as you run the bike every month or so your reasoning works. What I can't understand is the seals/o-rings drying out. I can see them getting old and cracking, but drying out?? On the flip side of the coin, a full bowl has more varnish than an 'almost' empty bowl. So if the bike is to be stored where it's not accessable, and maybe the battery has been pulled for the winter?? Maybe draining the carbs might be something to think about. Also I think there's a drain plug on each carb. I wouldn't do it, but it might be a way to empty the bowls completely??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...