20w 40 oil who sells it.

[ken]

After the issue I had last night with the gas shooting from my tail pipe I of couse had to change the oil. I check the owner manual and it list 20w40 as the recommended oil. So I checked Wally World, Menards, and Advanced Auto. No one had it. ended up with Quaker State 10w40. Hope this is ok. I did see Rotella 15w10 thought about that, but I was thinking Rotella is for deisel engines.

[MiCarl]

20W40 is pretty scarce unless you're in a motorcycle shop.

 

Lots of people run the Rotella 15W40. Personally, I run the Wal*Mart house brand (Supertech) 15W40 in my 1st gen.

 

10W40 probably not a bad choice this late in the season. By the time July comes around you might want go to a bit heavier oil.

[BigBoyinMS]

Hey Ken,

 

Double check your Quaker State bottles to make sure that it doesn't say "Energy Conserving" in the API symbol...

http://ts4.mm.bing.net/images/thumbnail.aspx?q=250906676075&id=1a591763164e4db685d38dd8ef7b1d3d&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.corrosionvci.com%2fimages2%2fAPI_Service_Symbol.gif

 

If it has the symbol but without "Energy Conserving" you're ok. Lot's of automotive oils use friction modifiers that will make your clutch start slipping.

Also, lots of auto oils have very low quantities of phosphorus and zinc which is needed for our bikes but causes cat converter issues in autos. I currently use Rotella 15w40 since it has no friction modifiers but it does have more zinc and phosphorus than auto oil; just not as much as we should have. It will be more expensive but from now on I think I'll go with Mobil-1 in both of my bikes. Plenty of the good stuff in it. I would use Amsoil but I would rather not have to order my oil.

Edited October 18, 2010 by BigBoyinMS

[KiteSquid]

I use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil in the one gallon jug. It is JACO MA certified so meets Yamaha's warranty specification. It has a SAE 40 rating at operating temperature. the only difference is it is 5w instead of 10w at start-up so your engine starts easier when it is colder as the oil flows more freely when cold.

 

It is currently on sale for $19 at my local Advance Auto Parts store....

 

 

 

Look for the blue jug

 

 

http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/100326/560r3/12779kh_19.jpeg

[ddoggma]

My last oil change I went with the NAPA 15-40w. It was about the same price as the rotella but saved me a drive. It's made by Valvoline and the bike seems to like it just fine.

[Yammer Dan]

Castrol 20/50 at Wally World. No energy conservers

[bongobobny]

...Or Delo 15W40 from Auto Zone. As stated, no energy conserving additives or any additives as we have a "Wet" clutch and the additives make the clutch slip. If you have less than 30K on the engine you might want to stay away from synthetic as your engine still has to put some wear on it to properly seat rings to cylinders, etc. A certain amount of mechanical wear is a good thing to make the rings fit precicely in the cylinders, the rod bearings to precicely fit the crank, etc. Synthetic oils are actually too slippery to let this initial wear in happen.

 

Using Diesel oil in our motors is perfectly acceptable!

[Drreb]

I'm not a big fan of Quaker State. I run Mobile One in mine.

[Ndiaz]

On my 88 Venture Royale, I use 10W40 year round. I buy motorcycle-specific oil at Auto Zone or Pep Boys, either Valvoline or Castrol.

 

Even in the heat of summer, there's no oil loss. The oil level stays the same all the time.

 

Nick Diaz

Middletown, MD