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Right rear Cylinder Cold at Idle


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I looked and got a few ideas from other cold pipe threads. :confused24:

 

I got the 01 RSV about a month or so ago, and don't know the history on it except that it needed an oil change soon. I have ridden it a few times, just to get the feel of it, and have found that there are a few annoying little things that were mentioned when I picked it up, like dropping out of curse,,,, and it does. In a couple of weeks I am going to tare it down to the frame and do a repaint, and Trike it. I am going to get the normal things while it is down to the frame like fuel filter, plugs (maybe platinum ) things like that that are a little bit of a pain to change. I am in the toolies, and don't have access to a sync thingie to check the carbs,, :( I start it now and then to keep the battery up, and fluids flowing.

 

I noticed tonight that the right rear cylinder pipe is cold..?? I run the RPM's up a little and it gets hot like the others, but as soon as it goes back to idle the pipe cools right off and can be touched,,,,, :confused24: Stumped, and out of my element some here. I sprayed carb cleaner around that carb while idling, and it seemed that the pipe got a tad hotter for a split sec. Am I on the right track. There are other cruiser types here in our big city but closest shop is 75 miles away. I guess I will be looking for a good local guy to help, and maybe sync the carbs. It runs out good :confused24: some slight hesitation on pull off then OK...

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First thing I did was a good douche of Sea Foam,,, good stuff,,,,,,,,

 

Goose: Pilot jet ??? I saw that mentioned in another thread, but thought it was on a first gen,, :confused24:

 

I also found that CarbTune is at a good price US, would that be worth getting.....

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First thing I did was a good douche of Sea Foam,,, good stuff,,,,,,,,

 

Goose: Pilot jet ??? I saw that mentioned in another thread, but thought it was on a first gen,, :confused24:

 

I also found that CarbTune is at a good price US, would that be worth getting.....

All carburetors have both a pilot jet and main jet. The pilot jet provides the gas for idle and much of the gas up through mid throttle. The main jet provides additional gas for the engine as soon as the throttle is starting to open, and by about 3/4 throttle it is the main source of all the fuel being burned.

 

Seafoam or 44K is good stuff to clean up the internal passages in a carb, but if the circuit is completely blocked, it cannot help at all. You need the gas/Seafoam flowing through a jet before it can clean deposits inside the jet, so if it is completely blocked, no Seafoam can get to those deposits.

Goose

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As Goose commented, if it's blocked you can't clean it out but perhaps all is not yet lost.

 

I ran into the same problem about 5 days after having my carbs pulled off the bike and 'serviced' at Goose's garage recently and on the way home, the bike started back firing when coming off the throttle from highway speeds and such.. horrible noise..

 

it wasn't till the next morning when starting the bike that I notice the left rear jug cold at idle but hot at open throttle, much similar to what you're experiencing. And as Goose states, if it's plugged, its plugged.

 

In my case I was facing a full carb pull away from home but as long as the bike was running well on highway speeds, I felt I could get home. But a quick stop at a keen dealership service dept got me fixed up real quick.

 

After I explained to the tech guy what was done to the bike recently and what was happening with the backfiring, no exhaust leaks, all vacuum ports properly sealed etc, he explained the same thing Goose did but suggested a possible save move to do.

 

He drained that rear jug's carb, in the hopes that perhaps, in hopes against hopes that what ever was blocking the pilot jet might simply dislodge and drain out. When he opened the drain, very little fuel came out. When he opened one of the other drains, a heck of a lot of fuel came out.

 

He started the bike and that rear left jug was hotter than hot, just like the other jugs (I have a burn on my finger from testing it lol).

 

This was a couple of thousand miles ago, a couple of weeks ago and its still working all 100% smooth as the day I left Goose's garage a few weeks prior. For once, something on my bike that 'broke' was fixed so quickly and easily.. =)

 

So I don't know if it will help with your issue at all, but perhaps, in hopes against all hopes, like it did with mine, drain your jug's carb and see what happens.. it might unclog it enough to get it cleaned out or it may not. Easy to do, it will save you from having to remove the carbs from the bike, which is a big job if you've never done it before and expensive if a shop does it for you.

 

Best of luck..

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Had one of my cylinders quit firing/running and the drain trick fixed it right up. I should have caught the fluid/gas that came out to see if a piece of trash came out with it. I will next time. hope this is all it takes for you. You might consider, while the carb drain is open, to operate the ignition switch a few times to flush some fuel through while the float valve is open as wide as it will go. Don't crank the bike just turn on the ignition so the fuel pump will run some fuel through.

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Thanks for the tips. I will drain the rear carb tomorrow,a nd see what happens.

 

Learning more and more every day on this thing...

 

It does run good and strong on the road, and no back firing, or popping.

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I will argue a little about the Sea-Foam soak not doing any good. These passage ways are rarely completely plugged. Get a good mixture of Sea-Foam in there. I use about 3/4 Sea-Foam 1/4 fresh gas. Leave it sit for a while and you might be surprised. If you got to work soak it for a couple days. I've left it in for week til I could get back to it. Then put the rest of that can of Sea-Foam in the tank with about 2 gallon gas and run the crap out of it. It may not work but it has for me several times.

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I drained that bowl ( after I figured out where the drain was,,:confused24: the manual that I down loaded doesn't seem to be the best in the world for that or I just missed it. I found where the drain is located after a couple of hours reading searches) Well I only have a minute or two to check what was happening because company came in. The draining of the carb bowl did some good (maybe) I started it and let it idle for 5/8 minutes and the right rear was hot Not as hot as the others, but never the less hotter than it had been, and the shield was good and warm, not hot like the front two, but before I could reach under the shield and hold onto the pipe and it wasn't even warm much less hot. I may try the B-12 into the bowls (because I have a lot of B-12 in the shop) and let set for a day or two th see if that doesn't help some at least. I wished that I had of ridden it more than I have to get a feel for its performance on a few runs.

 

I am thinking that at least it needs a good Sync too, and don't know weather to just get a gage, and learn how to do that, or for the time try to find some one close, that could help a little. :confused24:

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I guess I am learning, or re-learning things about carbs,, :think: or just got lucky,,:confused24: I had the chance to get in a quick 110 this afternoon, and took the RSV instead the Honda, mainly because it was full, and I am going to have to drain it out here soon, any way so why not just ride some of it out.

Started it up after wrestling it out of the garage from in front of the Honda, and was letting it set and idle for a few while I got a drink, riddiin stuff on. About 5 good minutes, felt the right rear pipe shield, and it was at least warm, not hot like the others, but trying. It seemed to be idling just a tad slow to me so I rolled in what was 75/110 more rpm's by ear ( or a good guess at it ) Took off, It is running good ( I think, it is strong, and not poppin, and missin ) I ride out 55 or so miles, and turnaround, and come back. It felt good to just set out and cruse for a short while on 2 again. Now I don't have a single clue of the performance of this machine MPG, and things like that, but just happened to be looking at the gouge when it dropped off the third tic mark on the gas, and that was at 79 miles. OK I will keep an eye on that and try to catch the next tic drop off. That happened as I was turning into my drive way,,, Not I thinks to my self 30 miles to a tic mark,, :confused24: ( maybe ) It dropped the 4th mark right there in the drive. My calculator tells me that is is closer to 27.5, but close enough for Gov work, and I had been starting it a couple of times a week for the last three or four weeks also.

 

Does that sound pretty close to what it should be getting as far as MPG. I haven't and wont get the chance to run a few tanks through it until I get it converted.. The kit comes in Friday, and I will start on it the first, after I get a Kaw out of the way and finished.......

 

Oh and I let it idle for a while when I got back to see if the right rear tube would cool off, and if didn't seem to cool down like it did last week,,,, :happy34:

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