Honda Wing stuck in 1st Gear,, a new friend needs some input..

2007 Honda Wing, the owner inadvertently pushed the reverse button while the bike was in first gear. It is now locked in 1st and locked in reverse. It's a trike but the bike came with the reverse from the factory. Please click-on and respond to the linked thread below if you have any suggestions.. ALL/any input would be GREATLY appreciated you guys!!

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?117570-Attention-got-a-new-friend-in-California-with-trike-question-can-we-help#tab8

Thanks Puc, you're the best!...I know my friend Sam will be grateful to solve this unfortunate mystery. By the way folks Sam is 85 years old, his wife Marilyn is 82 They still ride around AND trailer their trike to different places for a ride.....who says "we is old"? Roll on................

You are more than welcome Nanci - it was/is an honor and a pleasure to have gotten to meet Sam!! I am the one who should be thanking you my friend!! I hesitated putting your name, Sam's age and all that on here out of respect for both of you - THANK YOU for jumping in here and volunteering the info!!

Hopefully we can somehow assist that wonderful man in getting his gorgeous scoot back on the road! Sam,, if your reading this,, we're trying brother!!

Puc

@Cowpuc,

Please see my response in the link posted in post #1 above.

Click on the link and page down to see my response...His reverse switch has to be stuck.

@Cowpuc,

Please see my response in the link posted in post #1 above.

 

Click on the link and page down to see my response...His reverse switch has to be stuck.

@Eck, Got it my friend - left you a message in the other thread.. THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH ECK - YOU DA MAN BROTHER!! your brilliant suggestion works for our new friend Sam!!

@Cowpuc, so was it a stuck reverse switch and did he get the switch unstuck and bike into neutral?

Eck, Cowpuc,

Another GW trike shift/start question:

I got a 2008 GW Trike several months ago. I know little about it (compared to my Venture & RSTD).

Seems when I got it, (like the Venture) if it was parked in 1st gear, I could start it while pulling in the clutch.

Lately, I can not start it unless it is in neutral. And sometimes neutral may be a little tricky to find, depending on how the bike is sitting.

Anyhow, before I think dealer, is there also a common fix for this?

Thanks, Mike G in SC

Eck, Cowpuc,

Another GW trike shift/start question:

I got a 2008 GW Trike several months ago. I know little about it (compared to my Venture & RSTD).

Seems when I got it, (like the Venture) if it was parked in 1st gear, I could start it while pulling in the clutch.

Lately, I can not start it unless it is in neutral. And sometimes neutral may be a little tricky to find, depending on how the bike is sitting.

 

 

 

Anyhow, before I think dealer, is there also a common fix for this?

 

Thanks, Mike G in SC

Mike,

I think your Clutch switch is dirty and acting up:

Try this simple fix first.. Turn the small round chrome clutch lever adjust setting knob all the way from #1 to #2 or #3, 4 or to #5 setting to see if you can start it in first gear.

If by changing the clutch lever setting does correct the issue, then the next temporary fix is to remove the clutch switch, only one screw holding it in place, spray some electrical cleaner /lube inside then re install to see if it works, if that fixed it order a new switch because it probably won't last long. You can take the clutch switch off and slot the mounting hole so that the clutch lever would let the switch operate completely. (Makes it more adjustable in other words).

You can also easily test the switch after cleaning it by taking it off the bike and closing the switch (wire it closed) and then test it to see it the bike will start.

The permanent fix would be to replace the switch

SWITCH ASSY., CLUTCH

35330-MB0-003

$10.60

Eck, HEY THANKS.

I will look at it this weekend. Glad to know this does not sound like a dealer fix.

Mike G in SC

Eck, HEY THANKS.

I will look at it this weekend. Glad to know this does not sound like a dealer fix.

 

 

Mike, Just another suggestion while your at it cleaning the clutch switch, you may as well do the same thing on the cruise switch under the right hand side brake lever..that switch operates your brake lights and cruise on/off.

It is held on with 1 Phillips screw also...easy to spray and clean and you know it will last a while now.

 

May as well add a little oil to those brass bushings at the ends of both hand levers also..

 

Hi everyone- sincere thanks for all the great advice I have gotten from you guys. All has been helpful and some I am still in the process of implementing. So far the gear is still stuck and I am into figuring out the electrical system. I've gotten some great support and will try all of the suggestions. very greatful for all your support. Will post my progress.

thanks again to a great bunch of members. Sam I Am in Weed, ca

Sam,

You sent me an email stating you have to pull on wires to see the relays..I sent you a quick reply stating same as here (see below).

STOP.. dont pull on any wires...there should be NO need to pull on any wire. If you pull on the wires you have a darn good chance of pulling the wires off the relay and I have NO idea how they go back on with out looking at it before the wires come off to make a hand diagram.

BEFORE you go any farther, please try this:

I need someone to sit on the trike, pull in on clutch lever and hold it in, turn the key to the on position, reverse lightg should be blinking...now push IN on the reverse switch and see if it will go into reverse, you may hear a click ( I hope so anyway).. the reverse light should stop flashing but remain on. (the light stops flashing).

IF the reverse light does stop flashing, push in on reverse switch again to take it out of reverse. The reverse ligth should go out and then you should be able to start the bike and then move shifter up or down.

Please let me know how this works before you do any electrical investigating / disassembly.

Sam

(You quoted);

Eco I have the relay container loose but I have not been able to get to to the relays without pulling on the wires. I how do I get to them?

Thanks so much for all your advice.

Sam

Sam,

Relay "A" and relay "B" are down inside of a rubber protective boot. Both relays have their own rubber boot.

To release the rubber boot from the frame, the rubber boot "slides" over ( or hooks on to) a small metal tab. You have to "push upwards" on the rubber boot to release it / slide it off the metal tab. Once the rubber boot has been removed from the holding tab, you must push UPWARD on the wire harness as you pull DOWNWARD on the rubber boot to expose either relay. You must slide the rubber boot down the wire harness far enough to where you can expose the (6) wires attached to it. BEFORE you pull off any wires please make a quick hand drawn wiring diagram as to where the (6) wires go...

Note: Relay A can be used in place of relay B and relay B can be used in place of relay A. They are interchangeable even though they have a different part number. They are color coded and that is the only reason for the different part number between them..

Edit:

Sam,

With the tests you have been doing so far, I do not feel your problem is either one of the starter relays..

I really feel it is just stuck in reverse...

I would be rocking that trike back and forth vigorously with the key on, hitting the reverse switch then the starter switch working back and forth on the switches as I rocked the trike (vigorously), and having clutch lever pulled in at all times.

If this does not work I would be looking at a dealer for help from here.

Sam, per your request, I sent you my phone number in another email, but here it is again: 256-429-8623

NOTE: Please don't do any of this until we speak.

If after trying all the other recommendations, you need to manually turn the reverse actuator to the neutral position if it's not already there. This is done by removing the lower front cowl and the upper black cowl behind the forks. You will then put a large crescent wrench on the actuator nut and turn it slowly clockwise until it's in the neutral position in this diagram (see attached). You need to do this with the key off and the reverse shift switch out. Once you get it turned, turn on the key and see if the reverse light still flashes. The neutral cable is the one the blue arrow is pointing at and the other is the reverse cable. The purple dots are the lead cable ends in the pulley for positioning reference. See attached picture!!

Edit:

Sam,

I hope you get this email before you begin taking more of your bike apart.

After we spoke on the phone I decided to locate a few pictures and send you them so you can see what you will be getting into.

It WONT be an easy task if the reverse module went bad, and you have to replace it. I would not even tackle it myself swapping out the reverse module.

To do what you and I were talking about - turning he module to the neutral position, I think you / we can do...but if the module needs replaced, you will be in a pickle because you will have to put the whole bike back together before you can take it to a dealer to fix it.

See attached pics:

one picture shows the location (somewhat anyway) of the reverse Module and the last picture is what I need you to pay attention to, for it shows how much you will have to tear the bike apart to "change out" the reverse module with a new one.

I cant help you on the change out because I have never done it before..............

Im going to try to call you again right now too..

Eck

Eck, HEY THANKS.

I will look at it this weekend. Glad to know this does not sound like a dealer fix.

 

 

Mike, Just another suggestion while your at it cleaning the clutch switch, you may as well do the same thing on the cruise switch under the right hand side brake lever..that switch operates your brake lights and cruise on/off.

It is held on with 1 Phillips screw also...easy to spray and clean and you know it will last a while now.

 

May as well add a little oil to those brass bushings at the ends of both hand levers also..

 

 

Eck, Tried the simple knob adjust. Did not help. Did not get to the switches myself but dropped by the dealer today for a filter.

He swapped both clutch switches there. Still did not resolve it. Then he took a look at the aftermarket chrome clutch lever and said he believed it to be worn or bad.

He offered to swap me some OEM levers for $50, contingent on it working. It did. So, it was the lever. He said everyone wants to upgrade to aftermarket but he sees the most problems with them.

I like the feel of the stock lever better, so, all is good.

Again thanks, Mike G in SC

Eck, HEY THANKS.

I will look at it this weekend. Glad to know this does not sound like a dealer fix.

 

 

Mike, Just another suggestion while your at it cleaning the clutch switch, you may as well do the same thing on the cruise switch under the right hand side brake lever..that switch operates your brake lights and cruise on/off.

It is held on with 1 Phillips screw also...easy to spray and clean and you know it will last a while now.

 

May as well add a little oil to those brass bushings at the ends of both hand levers also..

 

 

Eck, Tried the simple knob adjust. Did not help. Did not get to the switches myself but dropped by the dealer today for a filter.

He swapped both clutch switches there. Still did not resolve it. Then he took a look at the aftermarket chrome clutch lever and said he believed it to be worn or bad.

He offered to try some OEM levers for $50, contingent on it working. It did. So, it was the lever. He said everyone wants to upgrade to aftermarket but he sees the most problems with them.

I like the feel of the stock lever better, so, all is good.

Again thanks, Mike G in SC

Wouldn't have thunk that one:Avatars_Gee_George: