pofarm
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Posts posted by pofarm
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This guy has a complete headlight for $45.00.
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Love those old slant sixes! They are totally bullet proof. Wish I still had my old Duster. It had a mildly built 225 in it.
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Glad everyone is ok!
The headlight ring is the same from 96 to 2001 and also from 01-10 V Star, according to boats.net. 4NK-84315-00-00 YAMAHA RIM,HEADLIGHT
The headlight bucket, if needed is the same from 96-01. 4NK-84330-00-00 YAMAHA BODY ASSY
Here is a good deal on a RIGHT PASSING LIGHT
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I pulled the radiator off my bike:bang head: looking for the coolant leak. What I found was the top radiator hose clamp was a bit loose and was seeping. I went ahead and had the radiator pressure tested just to be sure while I had it out. I replaced the hoses and life is good again. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to ride after it was back together.
I'm off tomorrow too, but the high is supposed to be mid 40's.
Gotta love Missouri weather. -
Mine took 120 psi to seat...
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If you are speaking of headers for a 2nd gen Venture, they are a direct bolt on, although you may have to modify the mounting brackets at the rear of them. I put a set on my 96 RSTC and had to cut and reweld the brackets to line up with the mounting points on the bike.
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Torpedo, I sent you a pm.
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Kinda what I thought. I guess I'll pull it and have it pressure tested at a local radiator shop. Hopefully it will be repairable.
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My 1996 Tour Classic appears to have a leak in the radiator. I have been looking for the source of the smell for some time and finally found a bit of seepage that appears to be about half way up, in the middle of the radiator.
Has anyone tried stop leak? I'm afraid it might do more harm than good in these small systems.
Can these radiators be repaired? If not, what years will fit? I looked up the interchange on boats.net and it shows to be 96 only, although the part number from 96 to 2001 is the same, except for one digit (4NK-12461-00-00 for 96, 4NK-12461-01-00 for 97 and 4NK-12461-02-00 for 98-01).
Thanks for any help!
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Here is a link to a database that users have added their rides to showing what brands ans sizes they are running on what bikes. I'm using a Nexen SB802 165-80/15 on my 96 RSTC. This is the size everyone with a Royal Star appears to be running. Darkside Tire Info Center
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I figured as much. To this day, I won't patronize them, and I run Firestone Winterforce directional tires on my S10. I love these tires. They wear well (around 50k) and have excellent traction. When I first started using these tires they weren't Firestone. I guess Firestone bought them out. I used to get them at a local tire shop, but they can't get them any more, so I order them online. They are cheaper online, with shipping, than I can get them from the Firestone dealer anyway.
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Years ago, 80s, the Firestone stores in Raleigh were really bad for ripping off unknowing car owners. Finally, a newspaper reporter did an undercover operation and blew up their scams. A young woman in the office took her car that had 20k miles on it in for a cheap set of new tires, advertised for $200. They kept calling her back telling her she needed tie rod ends, idler arm, shocks, etc, until the bill was $700. That is when she came to me and told me what was going on. I was known as the car guy. I told her that she didn't need any of those things and demand they put the old stuff back on and pay $200. They offered to reduce the bill by $200 and she went for it. Still ripped her off unmercifully paying $500.
I know this scam. In the mid 80's I had a Plymouth Duster that needed tires. I was broke, but got credit through Firestone. I was told at that time that, in order to get the road hazard, I would need to bring the car in for a tire rotation and check every 2k miles. At 2k, I took the car in. The mechanic came to me about 30 minutes after taking the car in and told me that I needed a center link kit. Instead of having them do it, I told him I would take care of it. I went to the parts store and told them that I needed the kit. The salesman told me that there was no such animal. The center link was a solid steel bar and didn't wear out. As I drove home I got mad. By the time I made it home I was steaming. I called the Firestone store and told the manager what happened and who the mechanic was. I told him that I would never do business with them again and would tell everyone I knew to stay away from them.
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I wonder if there are still new ones to buy for the 1300 from 86 to 93?
Here in Europe I can't find them. Thanks, Herbert.
That's what I get out of it.
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Filled up today for $1.69/US gallon.
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$1.78 this morning in SW Missouri. Was $1.82 yesterday.
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So adapting a fuel injection setup from a 4 banger Honda or other would require the injectors... (if multiple injector(s) you'll need to place them into the intake...or a throttle body could be mounted much like a carb making things a bit simpler. You'll need the computer (and a place to mount it) and what ever sensors it uses to function too. All the sensors will have to be located in a correct place something that I'm sure will require some experimentation. Sensors like a MAP sensor, engine temperature, possible ambient temp sensor, throttle position sensor, maybe a fuel pressure sensor too. You'll need a fuel return line as well. You'll also need a proper fuel pump, it will have to achieve the volume/pressure required AND fit someplace. Most cars use a pump located in the fuel tank because it's easier to "push" a liquid than it is to draw one...Holley had an external one for there "Pro-Jection" system a while back, I have 2 of those, I don't think that are big pressure producers though.
Many good points to ponder. I know there are aftermarket controllers (Megasquirt comes to mind) that are very compact, tunable for many different injectors, and don't require as many sensors as the OEM units.
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Boy howdy do I get simplifying things! You need to know the CFM and fuel requirements of the M/C engine and if this carb can deliver, what about the vacuum advance? You need that to input into the ignition, Gary has an after market ignition that is tune-able, he'd be the one to ask but I think he'd be skeptical. This would be way better than a car; on V-6s and V-8s the outer cylinders get less air/fuel (in theory) that the cylinders closer to the plenum; the V- 4 cylinder on our bike(s) has all the cylinders equal-distant from the plenum so the cylinders would have the same vacuum draw hence (in theory) get the same amount of fuel. Multiple carbs are A solution to that problem, BUT like most things involving a carb there are (at least) a few compromises where fuel injection has LOTS of advantages. I saw one like this on E-Bay for $500.00 (I thought) but do not recall what brand of carb it had on it.
I wonder about the TPS, myself. According to their description...
This is cast manifold, professionally engineered, very easy to install, no additional parts needed, perfectly fits original intake boots. The runners are identical length which causes even gas distribution to the cylinders. This is fully tested manifold, works great, saves lots of gas. Installation instructions are included in this listing.
Supposedly a bolt-on system.
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May I suggest you order the package and tell us how it worked out.
I don't think I can use it without modification. I have a 96 with the 28mm carbs. I'm guessing this is for the newer models with 32mm carbs.
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I ran across THIS last night. What do you all think?
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I've put about 10k on my 96 RSTC with a CT. I really like the way it rides and handles. It did take 120 psi to get it to seat, though. I run 38 psi in it. Less than that feels a bit squirmy to me. A friend has put over 50k on his and not had any issues. He is on his 2nd CT now.
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Nothing wrong with Lee products. I have used a Lee single stage press and dies for years. The ammo is very accurate. I weigh all of my powder charges. I don't trust drop powder measures with extruded stick powders, which I use the most of. Ball and flake powder charges seem pretty consistent from them, though.
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It appears that mine has a leak too. I haven't been able to locate it yet. I had seepage where the small hose connects to the metal tube alongside the top of the frame. Tightening the clamp fixed that. The drain plugs in the cylinders were also leaking so I replaced them. I haven't been able to locate any other damp spots and it doesn't leak on the floor, even when running, but I smell coolant any time I stop while riding. Other than topping it off after the drain plug replacement, I have only added about a pint of coolant to the overflow reservoir in the 3 years I've owned the bike.
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Upgrade the charging system on my 96 RSTD. Check the fork seals and change fork oil. Check valve clearances. Get the carb jetting sorted out. It runs great with the jets that are in it, but the fuel mileage is not where it should be. I get about 30 mpg with it, but was getting closer to 40 before opening the air box, changing exhaust and rejetting.
Gotta love Missouri weather.
An tax experts on here?
in Watering Hole
Posted
I had a $30,000.00 401(k) loan that I defaulted on due to losing the job I had, so the loan became taxable income. I rolled the remainder of the 401(k) into an IRA so it isn't taxable. An investment adviser at the company who handled the 401(k) account told me that I might not be liable for the early withdrawal penalty on the loan default since I was 55 years old at the time of the default. Can anyone tell me if I will have to pay the penalty? The online tax preparation site my wife uses didn't assess a penalty, but I want to be certain before I file. Thanks!