DanC
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Posts posted by DanC
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I have a few questions about the "ignition switch failure". First, let me say mine has not failed. I'm just preparing in case it does. I would like to do the bypass of the switch but before I do I would like to ask a couple of questions.
Can you have the bypass wired with a toggle switch ready to use and still start the bike with the key and start button as if the bypass was not there? I have read where some have the bypass in their saddle bag ready in case the failure occurs while on the road. Why not have it in place ready to use if needed?
How does the bypass work? I understand all power, except the radio, is lost when you have a failure. Once toggled and power is restored, is the key and start button still used to start the bike? I would assume so but if I knew for sure I would not ask. If not please expalin the starting procedure.
When you read this and laugh just know I am ignorant when it comes to this kind of stuff, so go easy on me with your replies. Thanks...
See the post that I posted some time ago concerning the ignition switch. Hope that it helps. Title is above. DanC:cool10:
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Has anyone used Castrol 20-50 motorcycle oil? It doesn't say anywhere on the bottle that its for wet clutch ,and it doesn't have an energy conservation stamp. Is it safe to use--or should I stay away?
I have been using Castor Oil Synthetic 10-40 in all my motorcycles for many many years with NO problem to date. Runs great and as far as I can tell there is no slipage of the clutch. I live in Florida so the specks call for the 10-40 weight. I also slip in 8 ozs. of "LUCAS" oil with every oil change on my bike. I am a big believer of LUCAS OIL. LUCAS oil calls for about 20% of the oil requirement be Lucas oil but I use 10% as my number to figure out how much to put in each vehicle. I use Lucas oil in all my vehicles. Lucas Oil has the ability to cling to all the moving parts in the engine and the pistons and etc. It's a little costly but I do believe that it really helps to keep oil on all moving parts therefore reducing wear on the engine. DanC
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To be honest, that does concern me a bit. Changing the air going in could certainly mess up your mixture. That is also why I'm reluctant at this time to add it to the tech library, I would hate to put it there with no good readings on what it does to the air/fuel mixture. I don't THINK you are hurting anything but I'm just not 100% sure.
What I am wondering is what is wrong with the orginal filter system and the looks of the orginal filter cover. I guess chrome is better for some. Is that what this is all about, THE CHROME, or am I missing something here. DanC:cool10:
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; 3M tape is very very strong as you know. It will never come off unless you want it off. DanCI like the idea too. Just wondering how that 2 sided tape will hold up when things start getting warm?? -
Very clever. A new and CHEAP way to add more safety chrome.
The 3M tape will never come off unless you want it off for sure. DanC:cool10:
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Did she have boots on??? ha haI know that most of you did not notice, but she had better have on good insulated boots.RandyA
Great photo. DanC
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Sounds like you got the wrong bag. I also have the Yamaha bag with the decal on the front of the bag "YAMAHA" It has two velcos on the front of the bag and two on the sides. Lines up perfect and secures to the chrome rack. The rear part of my bag does not have velco so I attach a bungie cord to the handle and secure it to the chrome rack. I feel that you have the wrong bag for the chrome rack installed. Take it back where you purchased it with the bike and show the manager the problem. DanC:cool10:Ok, today I installed my Yamaha brand trunk rack. It went well.I also have a Yamaha brand bag for it. So I went and placed it on the rack and the velco straps for the front part of the bag do not line up properly with the bars on the rack.
Anyone have this problem?
The rear velco straps line up just right.
Thanks
Geoff
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If you are looking for a very inexpensive way to chrome your Choke this could be the answer. They want around 30.00 to 40.00 for a chrome piece that covers the existing choke knob. I wanted to get around that cost so I started to look for a plastic chrome bolt cover that would fit on the existing choke knob. It needed to be 5/8 inch in diameter. They have them at several auto parts stores, napa, petboys,walmart and etc. I then took double sided 3M brand tape and cut a perfect round piece to fit on the back of the plastic chrome cover. I slightly angled the back of the scotch tape that presses on the existing choke knob. This way you can not see any of the tape and only the nice chrome piece. I then pressed it on the existing choke knob. I really like this better than buying the type that you have to connect to the choke knob with screws and etc. Its easy to remove if later you wish to remove it and your right back to stock. It also saves on fuel do to the weight difference!! ha ha :rotf:Hope that this helps someone who is poor like me. Not everyone can affort REAL CHROME!!!
DanC:cool10:The tape is 3M two sided tape, not regular scotch tape, needed to carify the tape used, and it will stay forever until you "really" want it off and then it will take some effort!!! If you do need to remove it for some reason I would recommend useing GOO GONE, or GOOF OFF to help remove all the sticky material from the Choke knob,.
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Thanks for your info I am also going to order one now. DanC:cool10:Well I ordered a RSV hitch from hillis73.It arrived today and I am very impressed.
Great quality, design and finish. The Photos don't do it justice.
It's design also gives me a place to install a mud flap.
I would and will recommend this hitch for everyone.
Thanks you, Hillis
Shamue
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I am not so sure that you guys are helping me out!! ha ha DanCThat is going to be a very important piece of informatoin to answer his question. In order to answer your question we also need to know who wears the pants. -
Did you find that the final drive and drive shaft "WERE IN NEED" of the lube job?? The reason I ask is I am wondering just how long one can go before doing the Final drive and lube of the drive shaft. Would it be yearly or when the rear tire is changed or just what do you feel would be good maintenance procedure. How many miles between? DanC:cool10:With a little time to spare before work today I decided to start the job to pull the final drive and lube the drive shaft. In a matter of two hours I was able to pull the tire, remove, clean, moly and reinstall the hub. Pull the final drive and drive shaft clean her up, moly it and reinstall it. I was pleasantly surprised how easy and quick it was. Guess I’ll be putting this job on the yearly to do list. -
I want to put the stock pipes back on the Venture, tired of the noise but my girlfriend says "NO" she likes loud pipes?? Don't know how to make us both happy!! ha ha Any advice would be appreciated. She is going to be watching this one. DanC
OK folks, you all asked for the photos of my girlfriend who likes my loud "PIPES":rotf:I really do not understand how this is going to help YOU GUYS give me good advice concerning my problem-- but by popular demand here they are. Taken at Bike Week, Daytona.
PS: She had to approve of these photo. She is still watching this Closely!!!!!! She also picked this color!! GULP!!!!!!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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It must be nice to have "TWO" pumps!! ha ha I am a poor man and have to make do.I have 2 pumps. A 0-30 progressive style pump for the fronts, and a Progressive 0-60 for the rear. Both have no-loss chucks. Works for me.... DanC
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Quick question here. By you using the gauge on the front shocks, didnt that completly defeat the purpose of buying a ZERO LOSS pump
Just asking but seems to me the little pssssttt when removing the gauge when dealing with 6 lbs to begin with takes you right back to not being 100% even pressures, or knowing exactly what they are.
Not being a smart azz just asking. If the front shocks are that sensitive then...........
To answer the question this is what I did/find with the low pressure gage. I pumped the pressure up to about a reading of 5lbs with the progression gage. As you know you can remove that gage without loosing any air. Then I put the 0-15 gage on it making sure that I was lined up on the valve stem. I only wanted 3lbs in the forks. So I read about 5lbs and by pumping or removing the 0-15 gage slightly pulseing it I was able to bring it down to 3 lbs. Worked great. It only removed very slight air, about .3lbs air pressure lost as I would remove the gage each time off the valve stem. So I just walked it down to 3.1 lbs and pull the gage off for the last time. Doing this procedure to the other side makes them the same. And I did recheck it and the two forks were the same. DanC:cool10:
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Does anyone out there know of anyone who would like to sell their shim kit?? If not, do you know a good place to order one with the special tool in the kit. I plan on sharing my kit with our members. I am also looking at setting up a maintenance day at my residence in the near future. We can all learn from each other and make new friends.
DanC -
Is anyone using fuel filters with replaceable elements? (ie replaceable internal filters)
YES, see my post on 2/21/2011, "INLINE FILTER" Hope that it helps. DanC:cool10:
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I have almost 13K miles on the bike. In the not so distant future, I plan to replace my fule filter since it is cheap preventative maintenance for my bike. I've read about the NAPA 3011 fuel fitler, but not sure if this if for a 1st Gen or 2nd Gen. At any rate, I may opt for an OEM type filter or go for a 'car' fuel filter.
What do you guys recommend and the best place to order online?
See my post "Inline Filter" 2/20/2011. DanC It might help you. Go to the nearest Napa and save shipping and get it immediately,
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With the low pressure gage 0-15 its very easy and accurate to get the shocks exacltly the same doing them one at a time. The other idea is also great doing both the same time. Thanks for the input. DanC:cool10:Pickinfred ordered a device for him and I that links both front shocks together allowing one to "equally" air up both shocks. -
I just install a inline fuel filter below the front seat. The hose is 5/16 and I cut the fuel line at a good access point under the seat and installed. Note, be sure to give yourself lots of fuel hose as it will easily slide under the fuel tank. I left the orginal filter in there as I only have 14,500 miles on my bike. If ever I am in that area working I will remove the orginal filter completely but because its kinda hard to get to I am leaving it for now. I am going to get some flack over that!! ha ha, but I can take it. I used Napa, Part#730-9561. I like this fuel filter because it comes complete in that you do not have to screw in the fuel connectors on the ends. The fuel connectors are part of the end piece that spins off when replacing the fuel filter inside, (filter replacement # 750-9566) applies. Oh, by the way, I used my carbtune also and it was great and easy to use. Now I just have to get brave enough to do the valves seats. Gulp!!! See photo attached. DanC:cool10:
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I just completed my complete motorcycle maintenance getting ready for the summer rides. I adjusted the air shocks on both the rear and front forks using the following tools and they worked great. It is so nice working with such accurate tools. I brought the rear pressure up to 35 lbs and the front shock up to 3lbs. The bike was place on my motorcycle stand prior to adding the air as the manual states. Some folks are saying that there is no pressure difference if the bike is on the side stand or on a motorcycle lift. However I will most always go with the service manual but have devitated several times in my life! ha ha Anyway here is the tools that I used and they worked great/SUPER. I used the pressure pump to put the air in the front shock and took it to about 6 lbs although I only wanted 3 lbs. With the 0 to 15 lbs gage I just removed some air slightly until it reached 3 lbs. Worked great with the low pressure gage. It was hard to tell the low pressure accurately with the 0 to 60 pressure pump. So two gages are required for good results. I use a Harley Progressive pump # 54630-03A, 0 to 60 lbs. and Accugage low pressure gage SX series, 0 to 15 lbs which I bought from BikeBandit.com, part# 24729 (TR-150251). See Photo attached. Hope that this helps someone.
DanC -
thanks for letting people in our club know about the tires you have to offer. I hope that someone in need will step up and get new tires if they need them. Great offer on your part!!! Thanks for posting it, makes the site even better to know that people like you are looking out for the members.OK so I have these two tires. They are 1,000 mile take offs in perfect condition from my bike. Now I know that the factory dunlops are not the first pick of the litter. BUT if their is a member down on their luck, and needing tires please let me know. I dont want someone who needs tires but cannot afford them to do without, or ride an unsafe bike. Look I know times are hard for lots of folks. Do not be so proud that you ride on bald tires or not ride, or be to proud to speak up. DanC
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;Can anyone tell me how to contact the Yamaha Warranty Service Rep.As some of you will remember my RSTD ran hot. With some assistance from my friends here we pretty much feel assured that it has a blown head gasket.
The bike has been in the shop going on 4 weeks now with very little being done to get it repaired.
The 1st week the service manager told me he had couple of big jobs in front of me so it would be the following Tuesday before they could get started. I'm not thrilled buy am okay with that as I know how these shops work. He also tells me until the last few weeks he has never had a RSTD in his shop for repairs which does make me feel better about the quality of the engine.
Anyway...
Three more weeks have passed and they have yet to diagnosis the problem.
Their reasoning is they do not have the proper size fitting for the radiator pressure tester.
This is a Yamaha dealer, they should have the proper tools.
He says he has been trying to find one but to no avail.
I just can't believe that in 3 additional weeks they can not lay hands on something they should have in their service bay.
Then after he does diagnose he tells me it will be an additional 2or more weeks for them to get the warranty approval and then order parts and then do the repairs.
I think I have been more than patience but that is quickly running out.
So how do I light a fire under their backside. Who do I call?
I have a call into the manager now but I want to go higher than that.
Thanks.
Here is the information. I both wrote and received a nice letter back and called about the service. Received instant results!!! DanC Yamaha Customer Relations Representative: Mr. Shanel Prator, address: Yamaha Motor Corporation @ 6555 Katella Cypress, California 90630-5101, Phone# 1-714-761-7300
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I have a used, from ebay oem power outlet coming. My plans are to find a nice, clean spot and wire it directly (FUSED) to battery for 2 purposes. I will use it for the obvious such as cell charger or whatever, but my second thought is to use it for my maintainer plug. Dual purpose outlet. Thoughts?? Suggestions?? I have a spot figured out already, and have the maintainer.
See my article on "Simple charging and Jump start system" posted today 2/18/2011. Hope that it may help you out some. Dan
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This is a very simple system that I just installed on my bike for two reasons.
1. I do not want to remove the seat all the time to charge the battery.
2. I also want a quick system to jump start my motorcycle should the battery go dead on me for any reason and I need to get home. Its nice to have a system on the bike so as one does not have to tear the bike apart to get to the battery connections. I want a fast fix if I am down for any reason. Plan ahead!!
Steps 1. Remove the seat so as to access the Battery and the cover for the circuit breakers left side rear of motorcycle. "near battery"
2. Get a large electrical wire or what I did was use electrical wire with three wires inside the rubber covering about 9 inches long. Need large wire to start the starter should it be necessary to jump start the motorcycle.
3. I then got two electrical connectors which would fit on the battery positive post and one that would fit on a 5/16 inch bolt that is one and 3/8 inches long.
4. I then drilled a 5/16 hole on the plastic cover that is behind the battery near the positive post.
5. I crimped the electrical connectors on each end of the wires.
6. I put one connector on the 5/16 inch bolt and put on a nut and tighten the connector to the bolt.
7. I then passed the bolt through the hole that I drilled 5/16 in the plastic and installed lock washer and bolted it to the plastic cover. The bolt is now sticking out about 3/4 of an inch.
8. I then installed the other end to the positive post of the battery and routed the wire where it would not be hitting anything.
9. I then tested the system by placing my battery charger on the motorcycle with the postive lead attached to the 5/16 inch bolt and the negative place on any ground/metal on the motorcycle.
10. The bolt is extremely hard to see with the seat both on or off but it really helps in knowing that you can charge the bike and jump start without removing the seat and etc.
If anyone would like to see photos of the system installed write me a e-mail and I will send the photos. Dan4852@aol.com
Great photo. DanC
DanC:cool10:
New Dash Design & Riders foot pegs
in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Posted · Edited by DanC
enlarge photo
Well, I did a little design work on my Dash and the passenger foot pegs and thought that I would share the photo with you. I put chrome plastic buttons on the dash along with chrome diamond strip. I also put chrome diamonds on top of the Radio control. Also changed out the chrome near the fuel cap and added "Free Spirit" covers to the Brake and Clutch reserviors. Forgive me for the diamonds but I will have to admit that they are not real!! ha ha Got the chrome knobs and diamonds at Petboys. DanC:cool10: