DanC
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Posts posted by DanC
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I would like to know if anyone in Fla or South Ga. is planning on doing a valve job on their Venture. I do not need one on my bike but I have read all the posts on our site and really want to try it. I plan on learning it and then helping our members out. I have a carbtune and could teach that now and do adjustment for members. The valve adjustment is very interesting to me and so I would like to help, watch and learn. Please let me know and I will drive to the event/maintenance day or days. I also would purchase a shim kit for all to use. If anyone has one for sale please let me know as well. I am more than ready to tackle this job. Thanks to Goose for his excellent write up on how to perform this maintenance task. thanks, DanC:cool10:
Talked to Cowboy today he really wants to do his bike. So were are going to try to get together and get this done either at his place or mine. We need someone who has performed the valve check/replacement of shims to steer us along. We are both willing and able to learn the procedure. We do not have anything to do the job with, special valve tool, valve kit or knowledge. Just enough knowledge to be dangerious. ha ha HELP!! Where is Goose???
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I would like to know if anyone in Fla or South Ga. is planning on doing a valve job on their Venture. I do not need one on my bike but I have read all the posts on our site and really want to try it. I plan on learning it and then helping our members out. I have a carbtune and could teach that now and do adjustment for members. The valve adjustment is very interesting to me and so I would like to help, watch and learn. Please let me know and I will drive to the event/maintenance day or days. I also would purchase a shim kit for all to use. If anyone has one for sale please let me know as well. I am more than ready to tackle this job. Thanks to Goose for his excellent write up on how to perform this maintenance task. thanks, DanC:cool10:
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I see that some members are adding as per instructions from the mg. of seafoam 1&1/2 oz. per qt. in with the oil to clean up the sludge in the engine. My question is do you leave the seafoam in for 5000 miles or until the oil is dirty or do you run the engine a short time and immediately remove the seafoam and oil replacing same.?? DanC
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Im changing my oil tmmrw morning...Any tips on filters,oil type..etc. I would really appreciate it(my first time on this bike)
There are so many post on this site concerning your request. Look them up and you will see that the procedure , types of oil and filters are covered in very great detail. There is so much information concerning different oils, filters and etc that you may come away confused!! Like Goose said, use good oil, good filter, and change on schedule and do not over fill as it will drip out your breather tubes and possible clog up the carbs some. the oil in the sight glass should be no more than half way up the sight when I motorcycle is setting straight up. Now this all said this is my procedure for the bike.
Change oil every 5000 miles
3.5 qts. of castrol syntec. 10-40
add 8oz of Lucas oil,
Fram filter PH6017A
Use a magnetic drain plug as it will catch small metal fragments in the oil sump if there are any metal fragments. When you change the oil always check for metal fragments on the magnetic drain plug. Also remember to use 1oz of seafoam per gal every now and then to keep the carbs and fuel system clean. If the bike starts to backfire and pot put 8oz of seafoam per full tank and this could very well correct the problem.
Hope that this helps. DanC
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I would be real interested in learning how to do the valve job myself. I have read everything I can about it and its time to do it. Would really feel better having someone who has done it to teach the procedure. I have a carbtune and have done my carbs. Could bring that along also. I would like to learn the vlave procedures so as I could teach other members who are around the Jacksonville Fl area. There are several things that I want to learn to do and pass it along. Clutch replacement, rear wheel removal , final drive service, greasing the driveshaft. I have removed the faring so I could help someone with that procedure and we could service the connectors that seems to be a on going problem. I have written about 15 maintenance and comments and posted them on our club site. See DanC for postings. Want to learn!! When are you going to be doing this procedure. Dan:cool10:Wondering if I might have a couple of guys that might want to tackle a valve adjustment on the iron horse before we get into spring? I do not have any experence at it but with the write up from VGoose it looks to be fairly easy just time consuming.We could do it in my garage or at someone else's. I do not have a carbon one lift adapter but I do have a craftsman jack. Should have all the tools needed accept for the shim kit and special tool.
Also would need a carbtune for after we adjust the valves.
If we get some intrest maybe we could round one up from another member or I could just buy one.
Let me know what you think out there.
I know I have a grill that cooks some mean steaks, and the garage refrig has cold beer.
Brian Shoemaker
706-635-1580
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Hm... sounds like most don't think this is good. If it's comfy, though, that's great. We're just over 400 pounds together.
I don't know how to adjust everything yet, though, and the service manual is greek to me so going to have to figure stuff out.
There is alot of articles wrote on the proper air and how to go about it. In no way can you use a bicycle pump. It takes a special pump. See my article under DanC concerning adjustment of air in the shocks. Hope that it helps. Read all the articles and then you will have a very good understanding of what to do and how to do it. Dan
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I would recommend you read my Posts, R-Mark Receiver hitch and stinger dated Nov 2010. See pictures attached as it might help some also. Another trick is to get a small allen wrench that fits the bolts behind the saddlebags and CUT the end of the allen wrench much smaller. Cutting the allen wrench will allow you to removed the support screws behind the saddlebags without removing the bags. It works. Real my post under, DanC. Easy to install. DanC:guitarist 2:One of my winter projects is to put a hitch on my 2007 RSV. I am looking for suggestions on what brand you all use and what you recommend. Thanks -
well not dead, just intermittent. I'd noticed the motor getting a little balky on cold starts. Then it would not run at all unless I rapped on the pump body with a tool, and the plastic end of the pump was getting piping hot. I bypassed the pump and approached the dealer shop guy about the warranty. He said I'd have to bring the bike in and leave it. I rarely do anything like that!
Then I remembered seeing an article here about the Mr. Gasket 42S. Thanks to all who contributed to that information. I got the 42S installed pretty easily, and as far as I can tell it pumps fine. I notice it passes fuel even when it is unplugged. That means I'll have to get used to using the petcock.
Thanks again to all who took the time to post info and photos. What a treasure this board is!
I am confused as to why you did not use the warranty that is clearly on your bike?? Is the dealer that bad?? if so you should report it. DanC:cool10:
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I will finally get to listen to some tunes again monday. Thanks to Don ( Freebird ). I got a used radio from Pinwall Cycles for $263 off a 2007 RSV. Sure will be nice to get the bike back together and ride again. Thanks again Don for telling me about this place. I will be getting some other stuff from them over the winter.
I am interested to know what was the final out come concerning your speakers not working. Did the new radio fix the problem? You will see in my write ups that it very difficult to find any service techs that really understand the radio and its function. Most have a hard time just operating the systems alone fixing it. Usually they just send parts back to the factory to be check and/or replaced. Would like to know if the replacement radio fixed the problem?? Thanks, DanC
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Where can I get that dielectic grease. I had never hear of that kind of grease until I got on here and read the post different ones have put on here. I will check out the mess of wires coming out of the radio. If that does not take care of the problem then I will trace the speaker wires to see if they come off. Thanks guys for all the info. I really appreciate all the info. Thanks Again
Any hardware store like "ACE Hardware or home depot carries the dielectic grease.
DanC -
There are all kinds of info concerning the radio systems on the bike. I have posted several myself. Read all about the connectors that work loose under the front cowling. Bring up my users name and you will see the posts concerning radio problems and there are more by other members. Good luck in finding the problem. DanCOkay, just to clarify. Is it just the radio or is it all audio? Cassette, CB, intercom etc..And all audio works with the headsets?
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my wife likes the loud exhaust. used to have a 1500 suzuki intruder with shotgun drag pipes on it. the wife would like the venture to sound similar. any suggestions?
See my post, (She says "NO" Help!) posted 2/22/2011. She got to keep the loud pipes!! ha ha ps. Did I have a choice??!!
DanC -
I have a 2008 and know of no type of recall at this time. You can call Mr. Shanel Prator, Yamaha Service Rep. at 714-761-7300 in California for any info concerning the venture. DanCAre there any 2008 recalls that anyone is aware of. or where can I find that Info. I really enjoy this site Ya'll are the greatest.Thanks, Melvin
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Picked up an isolator at Canadian Tire and was wondering if anyone has tried this or general thoughts. Hopefully the pics are detailed enough.
'09 RSV to Harbor Freight Tag Along trailer (4pin) - picking up the trailer this weekend
You could also just add one wire to the four wire system and run it back to the trailer hook up along side the wires going back for running lights,turn signals and etc. Get two LED lights for the brake lights and hook the extra wire to the brake light circuit under the seat. You can get the quick disconnect for the extra wire and hook it up when hooking up the normal four wire connector. Here is the wiring under the seat and the color code.
YELLOW- Brake light
BROWN-Left turn
GREEN-right turn
BLUE- Running lights
BLACK-ground wire
Good luck with either way you do it. Just thought that I would mention that the converter is really not required but does work. Save money is my theory all the time!! ha ha DanC,
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. Carry extra fuel??? Gulp!!! I'll stop for fuel when my tank runs low. Not sure about carrying extra fuel around is good on a motorcycle. I know it can be accomplished but I for one would feel a little nervous carry that fuel around. I carry extra fuel around on my boat at times and I do not really like the tanks in the boat with me. I just do not feel safe with any modification concerning fuel. No offense to anyone, just me. DanCDon't see too many bikes getting t-boned. Most are rear ended, or they are the t-boner... I'd hate to be rear ended and trust that that tank on the luggage rack is going to stay together.... But that's just me, the eternal pessimist....
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Good article Dennis. I think the stock air cleaners on these bikes are so ugly. I don't know why Yamaha hasn't done something to make them look nicer. I think yours look really nice in comparison.
I ordered the Yamaha chrome covers, but haven't put them on yet. I started a kitchen remodel on New years day, and it's taking up all of my time.
Could you advise where you ordered the Chrome Covers, cost and the part number? thanks. I for one am staying with the stock filter system as I feel that the engineers know more about the air intake required for proper performance of the engine. Enjoyed reading the write up concerning changing of the filter but I am not sold on it. DanC
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Wally, first off, thanks for this post! I had a problem last weekend with the radio, first long trip, 315 miles each way. Worked fine all the way to Laughlin from Carlsbad, CA. I had been having some headlight fuses blow, and sure enough, we go out to the bike on Sunday morning and I ask my wife to check the signals, lights, etc. She's standing in front of the bike and its running, and says, "turn on the headlights honey". What? the bikes running, the lights gotta be on. So I pop off the cover, put in a fresh 15 amp headlight fuse, and still no lights. So we get on the bike and ride home 315 miles with no lights and no running lights. So back to the radio. On the way home the radio started doing weird things. It froze up on one channel, wouldn't go up or down, wouldn't shut off. I got it stuck on some weird channel and ended up just turning the volume all the way down. At a fuel stop, I tried it after starting back up and it worked, some CB static and finally I got it to a working channel. Made it home, spent my Friday this week pulling the wires for the headlights and passing lights. Seems a couple of them were loose connections, so I shrunk wrapped it all, put a fresh fuse in and waa-laa! Turned the front end back and forth and no problems. So now I guess my next task will be, as you say Wally, pulling apart the fairing and playing with all the audio cables. I've only had this bike for 6 weeks, but I love the ride and my wife loves the backseat, so I'm learning so much from this site and all you great venture owners! I guess my Friday this week will be in the fairing playing with audio!
Again, I want to say this is a great site and I would have never had the confidence to pull all those wires to fix the lighting problem, and with all the info on here about the fairing removal I'm sure I'll be good to go!
THANK YOU VENTURERIDERS!!!
Brian
'06 Midnight Venture
--one more quick question, when I plugged my MP 3 connector into the outlet next to the cassette deck it blew the headlight fuse, this was before I re-wired it all up. Any ideas??
See my Post "AUDIO TOTALLY DEAD" 12/3/2010 It may really help to shed some light on your problem before you blow the amp like I did.
DanC -
See my Post "Audio Totally Dead" 12/3/2010. It may help to shed some light before you possibly blow the amp.First off... I have a 2009 RSV. I have really grown to love this bike (finally), although I still have a few minor complaints.But I am having an electrical issue that is DRIVING ME NUTS (kinda). The audio controller locked up after only having the bike for about 3 months. None of the buttons or switches worked at that time. I believe when it happened the FIRST time...I did something with the CB switch and it started working again, but that was about a year ago now.
It happened one other time...very similar...turning the bike all the way (turning the KEY all the way off) and then back on...made the unit work.
Now today, while on a 200 mile ride...the audio cutout, and when I looked at the audio controller, the HEADPHONES icon was on (top right corner of controller)...AND the controller was going dim, then blank, then back on again. So I thought maybe it could be a loose wire or power issue.
I pulled off the road, turned the key/bike off...turned it back on and it worked fine again. Started riding again, and the AUDIO STAYED PERFECT...but the LCD on the controller started getting dim and disappearing and then coming back clear...the AUDIO STAYED PERFECT during the time the LCD kept dimming and disappearing.
So now I am thinking it is a defective controller or something since the Audio did work even when the LCD was blank.
Problem is that now it's working again and...most of you know how hard it is to FIX SOMETHING THAT AIN'T BROKE!!!
Anyone else have this malady going on...
Wally
DanC
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See my Post "Audio Totally Dead" 12/3/2010 as it will shed some more light on the problem and possibly help you to solve it before it blows the amp.First off... I have a 2009 RSV. I have really grown to love this bike (finally), although I still have a few minor complaints.But I am having an electrical issue that is DRIVING ME NUTS (kinda). The audio controller locked up after only having the bike for about 3 months. None of the buttons or switches worked at that time. I believe when it happened the FIRST time...I did something with the CB switch and it started working again, but that was about a year ago now.
It happened one other time...very similar...turning the bike all the way (turning the KEY all the way off) and then back on...made the unit work.
Now today, while on a 200 mile ride...the audio cutout, and when I looked at the audio controller, the HEADPHONES icon was on (top right corner of controller)...AND the controller was going dim, then blank, then back on again. So I thought maybe it could be a loose wire or power issue.
I pulled off the road, turned the key/bike off...turned it back on and it worked fine again. Started riding again, and the AUDIO STAYED PERFECT...but the LCD on the controller started getting dim and disappearing and then coming back clear...the AUDIO STAYED PERFECT during the time the LCD kept dimming and disappearing.
So now I am thinking it is a defective controller or something since the Audio did work even when the LCD was blank.
Problem is that now it's working again and...most of you know how hard it is to FIX SOMETHING THAT AIN'T BROKE!!!
Anyone else have this malady going on...
Wally
DanC
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i have the same hitch on my bikes and to ease the installation i cut approx.one/half inch off the allen wrench so that it allowed more room to work. i to like this hitch. steve
I did not have to cut my allen wrench but would have if it were necessary like you did. I use the following tools to install and it was simple. Allen wrench to remove the screw and the rest was done with ratchet box end wrenches. The ratchet wrenches give you the ability to ratchet the bolt on with little need for a lot of room to get the job done. Ratchet wrenches are really nice. thanks for your reply. DanC
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I just installed the subject trailer hitch and it installed in just one hour. It was a perfect fit and so easy to install. I did not even have to remove the saddlebags to perform the removal of the support arm and then installing the trailer hitch. It is recommended that one remove the saddlebags to prevent scratching the bags accidently when removing and installing the bolts. Being very careful, it really easy to install without removing the saddlebag which really cuts down on the time for installing of the trailer hitch. The service was great with no shipping or taxes. $150.00 covered it all. A special thanks to MarkVentures for the service and an excellent part. It fit like a glove, little to no effort and installed in "one hour". Would highly recommend this hitch for anyone riding a Venture.
DanC -
Glad to hear the post helped. If you put the safety chrome on with the 3m tape it "WILL NOT" come off. Just rode for a week at Daytona bike week and was up running 80 several times on the interstate to keep up with traffic. Tape held like I knew it would.Thanks for the post, the safety chrome is attached. 4 in the pack for $2.99. If it falls off we can alwys go to plan "B" to attach a new one! DanC
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From studying my bike with a DVOM and test light I found these results. With the key on you should have 12V on both of the wires with it unplugged, (or plugged in for that matter). I went and looked at my bike. The horn UNPLUGGED on the right side (with your butt in the seat) has the 2 wires. The wire towards the front is batt + with key on and stays batt + when pressing the horn button.......The wire towards the rear is batt + with key on and changes to ground when pressing the horn button. With that being the case then in my opinion NO a standard automotive horn will not work as you will be taking batt + and applying it to straight ground when you turn the key on causing a feedback. So YES these horns have to be a special design to work with the power and ground configuration as they have it.
I will apologise up front if I am incorrect. But from the diagram I studied, and the results I found from my bike this is my conclusion.
Well, in a nice way I going to have to explain what you are seeing with the meter. True you will see a positive 12 volts on both sides of the horn with the ignition ON. However once the horn button is depressed all the 12 volts is dropped across the horn and the one side shows no voltage ie: ground. You can take any circuit and when its not in use the voltage is the same all along the circuit until the circuit, "amps":cool10: begins to flow in the circuit. The car horn does not differentiate between a motorcycle or a car. A car or truck horn works on 12 volts DC and so does the motorcycle. Sorry, DanC
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Well, I did a little design work on my Dash and the passenger foot pegs and thought that I would share the photo with you. I put chrome plastic buttons on the dash along with chrome diamond strip. I also put chrome diamonds on top of the Radio control. Also changed out the chrome near the fuel cap and added "Free Spirit" covers to the Brake and Clutch reserviors. Forgive me for the diamonds but I will have to admit that they are not real!! ha ha Got the chrome knobs and diamonds at Petboys. DanC:cool10:
I enlarged the photo per request. Also thanks for letting me know that I need to check the fluids in the Clutch and Brake. Geee, I can't get away with anything. You guys are sharp!!! ha ha DanC:cool10:
Valve Adjustment Weekend in Ellijay, Ga.
in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Posted
Randy I talked to Cowboy and he said he lives near you and that you and him might get together reference during valve job. I see you have a kit and I was wondering if you had performed this operation already? Wanting to learn how to do it. DanC