frankd
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Posts posted by frankd
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I'm in the process of replacing one of my fork seals, and when I held the lower fork leg upside down and lightly pushed it into the workbench, the piece that's in the pictures came out of it. No problem, except I can't find it pictured in the maintenance manual fork rebuilding procedure OR the Yamaha video for fork rebuilding. My bike is an 89.
I seem to remember that last time I put it in the lower tube first with the narrow end down, but I'd like to know for certain. Can anybody tell me if this is correct or now?
I don't remember this piece being in my 83's forks, but it's been quite a while since I redid those and I could be wrong.
Thanks,
Frank D.
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A light year for us, only about 5,000 miles. Due to getting our old house ready to sell, selling it, moving and getting some work to the new house started, we hardly rode the bike the first half of the year. Now that we're living further south, we've been able to ride much later than normal though. Like Cubs fans say, "wait 'till next year".
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When I bought my 89, the rear suspension kept on loosing pressure. I found a connection in the line to the rear shock had come loose and was leaking. Snugging it back up cured the problem. There is only a small volume of air in each circuit, so a small leak has a big effect on air pressure. As I remember, the fitting was on the right side of the bike about 1/2 way between the shock and the solenoid cluster. If you want to tell if it's the lines or shock bladder you could disconnect the rear shock line from the solenoid, and adapt a schraeder valve to the line to the shock. Put about 60 psi. in the rear shock through the added valve. If it stays pumped up you problem is in the solenoid or Class module. However every time you check the pressure with a gauge, it'll loose pressure, so maybe you want to measure the distance from your mudflap to the ground and see if it's holding pressure that way.
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Don,
I agree with Jeff.....Do NOT change to an all motorcycle format. Those other subjects keep VentureRiders much more interesting.
Frank D.
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Joe,
How's the RFI from the newest one?
Frank
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At an indicated 75MPH my 89 shows about 4100 RPM also. You're comparing your tach to your speedometer, and if the clutch isn't slipping maybe your speedometer changed. You can't really be sure which changed unless you check the speedometer versus a GPS. My speedometer reads about 3 MPH high from 20-90 MPH. My 83 is about the same.
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Something that I'd do before I changed the solenoid would be to take a 12 Volt test light (available at auto part stores), connect the lead to ground and hold the probe on the wire that's going into the starter. Make sure that the bike is in neutral, and have somebody turn the key on and push the starter button. If the light comes ON, you have melted your starter, if not, then maybe the solenoid has been cooked.
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Hey Puc,w
Yes, the bike sounds great, and making full throttle passes on a V-Max is fun, but.....where was your helmet?
Frank D.
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Does the key turn? If not try spraying some silicon lube in the keyhole.
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Puc,
The alternator oil upgrade was done the first time in the summer of 83, and then again late summer of 84. I purchased an 83 new and my dealer worked on the alternator twice.
The frame was re-enforced in the area of the center stand mounting bolts for the 84 model year. My 83 broke the frame, and the replacement frame I used was an 84, and they'd beefed this area up considerably. Frame problems are 83 only.
I believe they upgraded the clutch when they increased the motor to 1300cc. in 86.
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Check your carb. synchronization. If your carbs are way out of balance, the stronger cylinders will cause the engine to speed up, and then the weaker ones will cause it to slow down.......over and over again. This can cause the engine to sound pretty unhealthy.
I agree these bikes come to life above 4,000 RPM, but I normally let mine get down to 1500 RPM in any gear as long as I don't need to accelerate hard. Neither bike seems to complain when things are right. I'm not trying to start a fight or anything, but....I don't cruise in 3rd gear.
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Frankd-une
Tried that and it does not hold steady enough. You pull up with the Mightyvac and have to keep pumping it to hold the rod up. Almost needs a variable vacuum source that is continuous. Maybe get them lined up so I can see both in same field of vision.
It would hold steady if the Carbtune wasn't leaking. Check the seals around the movable piece and see if you can renew or repair them. They have to be leak free to indicate vacuum accurately.
Frank
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Compare the Carb-TUne to the gauge on the Mighty-Vac. Normally 1st Gen Ventures idle at about 9.75" of vacuum. Pump the Mighty-Vac up to about 9.75" and see if the Carb-Tune reads normally. That'll tell you where you really stand.
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I have the tool kit screwdrivers for both of my bikes. This screw was already boogered up. I managed to drill it almost completely out when somehow I managed to break off the tip of the drill bit. So now I'm screwed. For the time being one screw will have to be good enough and it seems to be.
The tool kit screwdrivers aren't that great. Harbor Freight has a #2 Phillips that holds up great and fits JIS screws, and it only costs $1.69 now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-x-4-inch-phillips-screwdriver-94707.html
Anybody thqt does any work on metric bikes needs JIS phillips screwdrivers to avoid stripping phillips heads out.
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I haven't looked at the 2nd Gen. manual, but I have done this on a 1st. Gen, and the manual has all the info. you need.
I tried, but the 2nd Gen. manual won't come up this morning, but.....you can find the procedure and the shim table here.
http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/8385servicemanual.pdf
The info you want is on manual page 3-45 or PDF page 223.
Frank
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The solenoid is to the left of the battery. A good way to check the solenoid is to ground the small wire coming out of the solenoid. If the bike cranks, the starter and solenoid are good and you have something wrong in the bike wiring or starter interlocks. Try this......turn the key and cruise control ON and notice if the green cruise light comes on. If it does, this will verify that you don't have problems with your kill switch. Le.t us know what you find and we'll go from here.
Frank D
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JB,
Did your bike get better mileage with the original TCI? 34.8 @ 65-70mph seems a bit low. My 89 would get about 41-43MPG under the same conditions, but I have set the floats and leaned out the mid-range on my carbs. Before I fixed the carbs it'd probably have gotten 38-40MPG. Maybe you need a little more vacuum advance?
Your engine temperature sounds about normal.
Frank
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The oil you lost was minimal, but it will be replenished when you start the bike up. With the bike on the center stand, start it up and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Then shut it off and let sit for a couple of minutes and check the oil. It probably will only be slightly lower.
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Whereas your gas mileage isn't great, it's not too bad.
Check for spark in all 4 cylinders. Take a good spark plug and test each cylinder. Make sure you ground your test plug. When you test for spark, it'll become obvious which cylinders are running at idle.
If you have spark to all 4 corners, maybe one your intake port rubber plugs has a hole in it That would kill low speed operation of a cylnder.
If you don't find anything wrong, you'll have to pull the carbs and see what's plugged.
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I wonder if we'd be better off if we put our heads together and figured a way to TPS signal? A potentiometer hooked to a throttle cable or the a sensor from a drive by wire bike. THen we could eliminate the MAP sensor that doesn't work quite right. Maybe then I could put the Ignitech back in line--I reconnected the TCI module when I was unhappy with the advance curve for the Ignitech.
Something else I was going to do but haven't yet is to map out the vacuum advance curve for the OEM TCI.
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Now I'm glad I started the thread asking if any others had experience with this lift. I was going to purchase one while it was on sale, but now I'm going to keep looking.
Harbor Freight does have some items that are great for home use, but they also have some junk. When I moved to Tennessee, I was happy to find out that there was a Harbor Freight store only 8 miles away, but I still don't buy very much there. Good luck with your refund.
Frank
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You may be charging a capacitor and nothing is wrong. Connect the lead and leave it for a few seconds. Then disconnect it briefly and reconnect it. You probably won't see a spark the second time. If your battery isn't going dead, don't worry about it.
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All of those things rely on the signal from the sensor in the rear wheel hub working. Did you unplug it and forget to plug it back in? Now, I'm not a 2nd Gen. person, so somebody else will have to chime in, but basically there is a sensor (probably a pickup coil or a proximity switch) in the rear wheel that provides a signal that is dependent on wheel rotation. Every pulse and the odometer moves ahead some. How often the pulses occur makes the speedometer work. The turn signal cancel needs so many pulses before it cancels the signals. Bottom line....something is unpluged, the sensor has gone bad, or the wire from it is either grounded, shorted or open.
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Jeff,
I couldn't put it in the oven until Barb was finished cooking supper.....she had the oven @ 350 degrees. I do have a dark blue Econoline and it was warm and sunny, so I set the TCI on the roof and it was nice and warm.
No, I didn't seal up the holes. When I worked for Reynolds Aluminum I learned that no matter how well you thought you had someting sealed up, rolling solution would get in, and you were much better just making a way for it to drain out. I did seal up the edge of the cover that faces forward though. That plus the fact that my brother is a fair weather rider that doesn't ride in the rain should keep it dry enough.
No, I thought about mounting it on the air cleaner, but just put it back in the stock location......Mark doesn't ride in the rain.
No, the TCI was from an 86 and I just wanted to get 'er running again. That plus the fact that we moved to Tennessee in June and I haven't unpacked all my unsolder/solder equipment yet I just left it alone.
Fork help needed
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
Thanks Kevin!! After I wrote the plea for help, I looked at the "seat plate" again and could see where the "oil lock piece" had been contacting it. This showed me how it had been in the bottom of the outer fork tube.
It's great to have you tell me it goes in the same way. After church I'll probably put the fork back together.
Frank