camos
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That's basically how I do it too although with a couple of small differences. In the past I used 7mm tubing which fit the bleeder tightly. Currently I'm using 1/4" tubing which needs to have the end opened up a bit to fit the bleeder. It's easier to find 1/4" tubing than metric tubing around here. My tubing is 24" long and easily reaches the waste bottle, which just happens to be a Tequila bottle, on the ground. There is no need to put water in it since the hose cannot fall out of it.It is my habit to change the brake fluid and clutch fluid at least every two years. The difference with fresh fluid can be surprising. The fitting that you asked about is equal to the fitting found on the brake caliper. I use a simple method to bleed air from the system or replace the fluid;A short piece of rubber hose (3") that is tight on bleed fitting, a clear plastic hose that is tight in the rubber hose and long enough to reach a clear bottle or jar on the ground. Place the rubber end on the bleed fitting and the other end (plastic) in the jar with enough water or old fluid to keep the hose in the fluid. Remove the master cylinder cover, open the bleed fitting, and slowly squeeze the handle (slowly or it will squirt out!). You will see the dirty fluid coming out of the clear tube. Repeat until the master gets low on fluid. Do not allow the master to suck air!. Add fresh fluid to the master. Repeat until fresh fluid is coming out of the tube. Close the bleed fitting, top off the master cylinder, and reinstall the cover. Done.
The most important part of this technique is to have the hose go up an inch or two from the bleeder so fluid sits on top of the bleeder valve which prevents air from getting into the system while the valve is open.
Pumping slow does not do any good for the actual bleeding part. In fact, since air will rise towards the MC, the slower you pump the longer it will take to get the air out of the bleeder valve. Putting the lid loosely on the MC reservoir without the bellows gasket will keep the back squirt from being a problem.
Bleeding the clutch this way will take less than 10 minutes.
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That would be both sensible and fair particularly since that is almost what they are doing already. You notice that they ask if you are the principal driver. Other people with less than 10 years experience or too many accidents or too many points have to pay an additional fee for coverage. That seems fair enough to me.I too would like to know why it is the vehicle that has to be insured. Four vehicles four insurance policies! Any claim is made against the driver not the vehicle. Why can't insurers insure the driver? Why insurance "per vehicle".
That would work best with basic liability coverage but maybe not so well for comprehensive coverage. Of course, it would also mean the insurance company would get a much reduced premium and would seriously affect their profit. Probably a no go there.Also, when a person has multiple bikes why can't they insure say, the most expensive one, issue one plate & that plate can then be transferred to the other bike(s) after all most people can only ride one bike at a time & the other(s) remain in the garage. -
Perhaps it is the ephemeral reflection of your dark side about to leave the annoying straight shooter abandoned on the highway in the middle of nowhere.
Just a guess of course.
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Since you seem to be open to alternatives to a log house, I recently read an article on homes built with shipping containers. Looked like it might an economical method if you are handy.
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Yes, that might cause wobble but it won't cause cupping.One thing that you could check that is a little trouble is the oil level in the fork legs. If it isn't the same it might cause some steering issues. -
In this case there is no difference between the 83 and 89 except for possibly the tires. One thing is certain, if tires are cupping then they are too soft. I've been running Dunlop Elites @ 40 lbs exclusively since getting my Venture in '09 and regularly get around 20,000 miles and have never had any cupping.Just my experience, but on my '83 I have found that I get the best results from running 36lbs rear and 38lbs front. I have no idea if that is due to riding style or if it is the difference between an 83 to 89 or even the tires I use. Just my -
Up to you, 36 lbs is too soft on my 89 and it is noticeable when doing slow speed maneuvers. Despite the fact that I have on occasion failed to keep the pressure at 40, I have never had cupping on any of my Ventures tires. If you want to save your tire, pump it up.I have always ran my tires at 36 lbs. -
I understand the physical changes when going from feet forward to feet under. When I first got my Venture I was very inclined figure out a foot forward position. It was a bit of a low priority at the time so just over a year later I thought about doing something with the controls. By that time though I was so used to the position that I was very comfortable riding all day with my legs tucked. Having highway pegs is still a good idea when doing long rides.Yep that was me, don't get the fun of it but glad you enjoyed it. My foot doesn't like bending up to upshift. I have to lift my whole leg to shift up so going through the gears is much easier to push down while accelerating. I've ridden mostly harleys since the 70s, a few triumphs and a few yamahas. Just got the Venture this spring and still getting used to it. The mid controls arent at all for me. It hurts my legs and cramps my back so I'm going to buy or build some forward controls.When I'm sitting on the Venture with my feet on the pegs, my toes are pointed slightly down so I adjusted the shift lever so it would slightly touch the top of my foot. Shifting with that setup requires only an effortless slight rocking backwards of my foot. In the winter I readjust the shift lever to fit my felt-pac rubbers. Works just fine that way too.
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So what pressure did you put in the front tire? Personally, I prefer to run both front and back tires at 40 lbs.I rode a few times before checking my tire pressure and only then because slow turns gave me a feeling like the front tire wasnt true. The front was showing some cupping and when I checked it only had 15 pounds pressure.
Cupping could be the cause or at least a contributing factor. Unless the cupping is really bad just live with it. Keeping the pressure up to 40 will allow the tire to wear off the high spots.This week a close friend came to visit, we were riding a back road about 55 mph when I guess for the first time I let go of the handle bars with both hands and immediately got a sever front end wobble. With my friends help I was able to put it on the center stand and checked for any looseness and didnt find anything. It only does it when I let got the handle bars but its instant. I suspect the tire cupping is the cause but too poor to change it just because it has some cupping if thats not the issue. Im sure this has come up before but a searh didn't help me. What do you guys think. -
Drag as in still trying to go with the lever all the way in? There is a good chance there is air in the system. Bleeding is worth a try.I've not had problems with slippage or chatter at all but do have clutch drag once the bike warms to operating temperature. -
I have braided nylon boot laces on my 90 VR which work well enough but require them to be tucked in which is not very convenient. On my 89 VR I put a light twisted chain which does the tether well and has the benefit of not needing to be tucked in since they sort of fall into place.Losing the saddle bag lids on the 1986-1993 Ventures is an age old lament.Very early on (1987 or so), the solution has been to tether the lids to the lower part of the saddle bags with stout cord (shoe strings, braided nylon cord, spiral wound lanyards, etc.)
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Hey Will, don't take it personally. You are not the only one who has difficulty understanding Steven's posts. I think he has some valuable experience but has difficulty communicating it clearly.Don't waste your time on me Steven, I'm sure I'm too young and have holes in my memory that would prevent me from understanding your explanation.Will
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Seems to me there is a lot of fuss over nothing. Looks like you did a nice job of replacing the filtre seal and chose a very good battery as a replacement. According to you the bike is running great so there is currently no indication there is any need for a compression check.I'm sure this has been done before and covered, but here is my rendition. Used single sided sticky foam around 1/8" thick.The Factory seal was almost completely gone.
Now, when I tighten the four air box screws down there is actually some compression resistance.
I also replaced the battery that was swimming in the holder; obviously not the best size for a 130CC. It was manufactured in 2014.
Replaced it with a Deka ETX18L, a perfect fit, AGM, and 350CCA.
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113881
Will
I was very happy to have paid $1800 for my 89 VR with 25,000 miles on it so I'd say you got a really good deal on your beautiful bike.
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With the cover off the MC do you see the back squirt when releasing the lever? If not then that little hole might be plugged.It's almost like the pistons in the calipers aren't backing off enough after braking.
It might just be a little dirt in the MC or it might need to be rebuilt.I also noticed that when I apply the front brake with a strong grip and keep squeezing, I can slowly bring the lever all the way to the throttle handle even though it is resisting very strongly. -
If you get more brake by pumping the pedal than there is most likely air in the system and properly bleeding it will restore your brakes. Once that is done, if the brakes get spongy again then there is some other problem that is allowing air into the system. If the MC has failed then it is not likely you will get any braking at all.I bled the brakes and have found that if I pump the pedal I can get some stopping action.
Do I need to bleed again or has the master cylinder failed?
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The biggest problem with LED's compared to OEM/DOT is they put the centre of the light in the wrong position. There is a fairly precise focal area that reflects the light forward. Any light that is not in that area will get sent out who knows where. The Broviews are the only LED that I have found to work properly and that is most likely because they were designed to pass DOT specs. Getting a DOT designation is probably the best thing to look for when changing over to LED's.No. The problem with LED bulbs is most of them don't have the proper light cut off for the low beam. And the high beam is left to go wherever the bike lens throws it. -
What about a piece of flat bar that goes either forward of the fender mount or down from the fender mount? Looks from the pic like there would be enough clearance. -
What about a piece of flat bar that goes either forward of the fender mount or down from the fender mount? Looks from the pic like there would be enough clearance.
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That's partly right. the slots allow the riser to be pinched without popping out the centre filler piece. If they were not there the bolts would most likely strip the threads before allowing enough pressure to grip the handlebar stubs. The circular hole at the end of the slot in the cover piece allows enough flex so the cover piece does not eventually crack from the pressure.Oh, THOSE slots! I just walked out to the garage and looked at Goldie!Those slots are for the riser piece to "pinch" and capture the handlebar section so that they are more rigid...
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When I first got my 90 VR I added a half can to a tankful and it smoked so much my neighbour came running over to see if something was on fire. I guess it depends on how cruddy the fuel system is.I can tell you that I have never seen my RSV smoke with a full can of Seafoam added to a full tank of gas. -
Lots of good advice in this post. Referring specifically to Seafoam though, it is my opinion that putting a whole can in a tankful is a waste. I commute daily on my VR all year and have found adding a quarter can of Seafoam every three or four months was necessary to keep the motor running properly. Thank you ethanol.Run a can of Seafoam per tankful for a couple of tanks and drive it hard first. As I mentioned, try the "Shotgun" method on the suspected carb as well to help expedite its cleaning. I followed that process for five years or so with good results. For the past year I've been doing it differently, adding 2 oz to each tank. That seems to be working as well although I can't say it is working better than the other way but there has been no apparent degradation in performance like with the first method.When it comes to resurrecting the carbs, the shotgun method of filling each carb through the drain hose should be done first. Let it sit for a day or so then drain it. Put 1/4 to 1/3 can into a full tank and run it down to almost empty over the course of several days. Make sure to do some WOT runs to get the mix into the main circuits.
If it is still not running properly do it again with another tankful. If you get through the whole can of Seafoam and it is still not running properly then there is most likely a more significant problem than Seafoam can handle.
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Makes sense to me. I'm not ready to give up two wheels yet but have been considering the move to a three wheeler at some point. Trouble is the Miata is made for short people. I had a 1967 MGB which is the inspiration for the Miata but it had tons of leg room. Not sure I want to trade in my old Venture for an even older car.I considered building a trike with the Goldwing I have, but for what it would cost, I could buy a really nice Miata. So, instead of going with three wheels in the wind, I went with four and enjoy it every time I get in it.Randy
Perhaps it will be the time to move to Mexico where riding a quad is allowed on public roads.
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I would go with this advice too. I had a stent put in about 20 years ago and was advised to go easy on physical activity for a couple of weeks to a month until the incision healed properly. That advice was related to the incision rather than to the stent, don't want to blow out the artery that was used to access your heart. I suppose a lot of it depends on what kind of physical shape you are in and how well you tend to heal. Haven't had any issues with the stent itself.My Doctor told me that the only reason I needed to wait to ride was so I didn't tear the incision open in my groin. he said it would be completely healed in 10 days and there was no other reason I couldn't go back to full activity. Not sure why your doctor wouldn't want you riding the rest of the season. But each person is different and so is each doctor.PS i have had 2 of them put in and both times I was back riding in 10 days.
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Good luck with finding a roll of film. You have a set of feeler gauges right? One of them should work just fine.I'm going to have to just go buy a roll of film somewhere. I used a tool I cut from a milk carton which went down in between the seal in the fork just fine but seemed excessive thick compared to what film strip would be.
I followed that process for five years or so with good results. For the past year I've been doing it differently, adding 2 oz to each tank. That seems to be working as well although I can't say it is working better than the other way but there has been no apparent degradation in performance like with the first method.
Saddle Bag Leaking
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted