Kachow

And I think he's implying that unless they're fried you can clean them?

I've sensed some hesitation after decel, and I also faintly smell gas at times. Reading this post makes me now wonder if there could be an issue with my fuel pump. I've only had gravity fed fuel delivery on past bikes, with the exception of one with EFI. What should I check--how does one check the fuel pump? Any tips would be appreciated.

Just a follow-up I did put in the new clutch pack as I mentioned and went to the conventional motorcycle oil so all seems well after about six hundred miles. Doesn't slip even in the higher gears...yet:cool10:

So I got a wolo horn it's a trumpet style horn and it fit perfectly in the spot for the OEM but about twice as loud and good enough for now.

I knew enough to get oil with no modifiers

My bike a 96 only has 20K miles on it. I don't know what kind of Rider the previous owner was or what kind of riding he did, but 20K seems like really premature to need a clutch. Anyway, first thing I did when I got in there was inspect all of the clutch parts and the friction plates were all within spec .114 to .122. So I was a little skeptical whether the new friction plates would help but so far so good it's been an improvement. I'm not using yamalube and I'm not using full synthetic anymore I'm just going to use plain old conventional oil that I buy at Wally World. But this far into it I would say it was necessary and successful. And I thank you guys for your advice about what to do for the fix.

Okay well I did my clutch today and I just went out for a quick test run afterwards and everything seemed fine but I didn't really romp on it yet. The jury's still out I guess whether she'll slip in the higher gears. I'll find out soon enough and keep you posted

It's a huge file, 72 Megs, but a really helpful tool. Thanks guys.

Yeah I'm going to do phase 3. The bikes got a lot of horsepower it's a shame not to have it delivered to the rear wheel.

I just bought the bike a week ago I haven't even ridden it a thousand miles. And I can't say I've read all about clutches on this forum but I have read a couple threads and one in particular where the individual was advised to change the clutch springs rather than another approach to fixing the slippage. He was particularly interested whether it was the brand of oil he used. I am using that Valvoline 4T per your pic, and as I mentioned I've used it on other bikes and currently use it on my Honda Valkyrie and have no problems with clutch slippage. Its lubricity is excellent, and I'm not speculating about the improved shifting with it on the Royal Star -- it is real not simply imagined. That's why I'd kind of like to stick with it. At any rate, the bottom line you're implying, I think, is I need to do some work on my clutch correct? Otherwise, since it's okay to switch back to the same grade of dino oil, then I could do that even at the cost of tougher shifting. I'll have to consider it.

So after my post I got curious if there'd be any clutch slippage and sure enough, just in 4th (probably also 5th--couldn't go fast enough on that run to find out) and just when it reaches peak HP, not at all until. Darn. Still, the trade-off for really smooth shifting vs. slight slippage on the highway? There are of course other benefits to running full synthetic, and the brand I use (Valvoline 4T) doesn't have any additives (so it's ok for wet clutch) and doesn't make my Valkyrie's clutch slip. Should I try another brand next oil change (maybe Mobile 4T), or is the only fix replacing clutch springs/parts? I really don't want to go back to conventional oil, and I heard going back to dino after full synthetic can cause problems and should be avoided (fact check?).

It's unbelievable. PO had whatever brand dino oil, less than 1000 miles on it--shifted like a Harley and I thought "ok this bike's a hog on shifting." Today went to full synth 10-40, which I've been running in my other bikes, and now she shifts soo much smoother and easier, night and day.

That's good to know thanks. What I'll do is pick up a spare 6 mm screw with the button head and carry it in my tool pack.

So the PO had broken the weld on the side stand loop, without which it's a bear to get that thing down, so I removed the stand and had a buddy weld the loop back on. well in the process, cuz I had to remove the shift linkage from the tranny to get the side stand bolt out, I learned the shifter linkage screw was ready to fall out. That was a freakish discovery, as I had just returned from a 90 mile ride--could have been stranded stuck in like 3rd gear or something! funny how things happen. Anyway, tightened the linkage screw (think it's a T30 torx), but now I'm paranoid that other stuff is loose on my 23 year old bike. Guess I'll spend more time going over every fastener I can reach. Reminds me of my dirt bike days.

I also bought a couple of good horns online, one in particular claimed 130 decibels and pretty much works as advertised on my other bike. it's around 6" in dia, which won't fit in the space for RS horn, unless I figure a new location. Also, I don't really want to add longer wire to what's there. I'll go to HF and check out the Wolo horn. hopefully it's reasonably priced like most of their stuff.

Okay thanks, I'll check out the Wolo horn sold at HF. I can make a bracket for it.

Sorry guys but I got to say it, what was Mother Yamaha thinking by having a small snail horn that looks down, I guess that sound waves bounce? But it's almost mute and so I had some aftermarket horns on the shelf (that point outwards) and tried all of them and they just won't fit into that little space or were no louder than the wimp of a horn that came stock. What say you?

Okay, thought that might be it on the pics...thanks. Two owners ago debadged her, and the guy who sold to me had purchased a tank badge for the right side, which I just replaced, but the left still is blank. I already removed the passenger seat/floorboards, as the wife won't get within 10 feet of any bike o' mine. I'd love to see 40 to 45 Mpg, but that's probably not going to happen with the exhaust (debaffled) and the carbs no doubt jetted (prolly still out of sync). I'll look at doing the carb sync soon.

Well, can't figure out how to attach pics. tried the paper clip thing, "upload failed," then the insert image button, still no joy. The pics are of course jpegs. Help! The bike is a sweetheart. Summer is such a great time to get used to a new ride. I'm now on my third tank of gas. First one I got 32 Mpg, the second only 28. I guess that's 30 avg. eh? Is that kinda low for a RS? On this second tankful I might have spent lots of time farting around with it idling. My Honda flat six only does 30 Mpg, so I'm used to gas hogs, if that's what to expect from this Yamahog. I treated my second tank with seafoam, think the PO let her sit for the whole winter. I can see she's running better already. Got so many questions...here's a couple: do the timing chains, which I can slightly hear, need tensioning periodically or is that something to leave for higher mileage? (I'm just coming up on 20k) Also, are the tensioners the kind you just loosen and let the spring reset the tension or is there more to it? Thanks for your advice. Tom, aka Kachow

Thanks VideoAZ. I'm pretty impressed with the speed of this bike. It's geared so much taller than my Valkyrie, like about a whole gear taller. Not crazy about hitting rev limiters--they say the same thing (revving up to it ~ once a day) on the Miata forum--that Italian tune-up thing, which I still haven't done yet after three years with the car . Anyway, as you suggest, I'm establishing a base line for maintenance: going to change the oil and filters, so I know what's in there and when changed. I can see that the service the shop did included new brake pads f/r, so I''ll leave those for a while. The fronts are surprisingly weak (the front rotors look almost new too) and the rear brake is awesome...again I'm comparing to my big Honda as a reference. Thanks again for the welcome and the tips for further reading. I'll look for that manual to download...was going to ask if there's one but some object to that sort of thing--getting freebees.

Hey just joining up as I just purchased a '96 Royal Star. Seems pretty much stock, though honestly I can't tell on the exhaust (backfires a little on decel, could be desmogged and debaffled). I would like your advice what I should start with for basic maintenance. PO says he took it to a shop which did the "20,000 mile service," whatever that means. It's got new Shinkos front and rear, and he says new oil/oil filter and air filter (I wonder if when the shop did the rear tire did they do maintenance on the final drive, and should I get in there and check that for myself?) I'd also like your advice, should I just get a Yamaha service manual or is there a better one? I think she's a beauty with only 19K miles on her and I plan to make it a daily rider along with my other bike. I'm not a new rider. My other bike is a '98 Valkyrie with 85K on her--best bike I've ever owned... so far Anyway, the Valk is getting old and the Royal Star will be her replacement (story to my wife). Thanks for your advice. Tom, aka Kachow Western Washington