Kachow

And I think he's implying that unless they're fried you can clean them?

I've sensed some hesitation after decel, and I also faintly smell gas at times. Reading this post makes me now wonder if there could be an issue with my fuel pump. I've only had gravity fed fuel delivery on past bikes, with the exception of one with EFI. What should I check--how does one check the fuel pump? Any tips would be appreciated.

Just a follow-up I did put in the new clutch pack as I mentioned and went to the conventional motorcycle oil so all seems well after about six hundred miles. Doesn't slip even in the higher gears...yet:cool10:

So I got a wolo horn it's a trumpet style horn and it fit perfectly in the spot for the OEM but about twice as loud and good enough for now.

I knew enough to get oil with no modifiers

My bike a 96 only has 20K miles on it. I don't know what kind of Rider the previous owner was or what kind of riding he did, but 20K seems like really premature to need a clutch. Anyway, first thing I did when I got in there was inspect all of the clutch parts and the friction plates were all within spec .114 to .122. So I was a little skeptical whether the new friction plates would help but so far so good it's been an improvement. I'm not using yamalube and I'm not using full synthetic anymore I'm just going to use plain old conventional oil that I buy at Wally World. But this far into it I would say it was necessary and successful. And I thank you guys for your advice about what to do for the fix.

Okay well I did my clutch today and I just went out for a quick test run afterwards and everything seemed fine but I didn't really romp on it yet. The jury's still out I guess whether she'll slip in the higher gears. I'll find out soon enough and keep you posted

It's a huge file, 72 Megs, but a really helpful tool. Thanks guys.

Yeah I'm going to do phase 3. The bikes got a lot of horsepower it's a shame not to have it delivered to the rear wheel.

I just bought the bike a week ago I haven't even ridden it a thousand miles. And I can't say I've read all about clutches on this forum but I have read a couple threads and one in particular where the individual was advised to change the clutch springs rather than another approach to fixing the slippage. He was particularly interested whether it was the brand of oil he used. I am using that Valvoline 4T per your pic, and as I mentioned I've used it on other bikes and currently use it on my Honda Valkyrie and have no problems with clutch slippage. Its lubricity is excellent, and I'm not speculating about the improved shifting with it on the Royal Star -- it is real not simply imagined. That's why I'd kind of like to stick with it. At any rate, the bottom line you're implying, I think, is I need to do some work on my clutch correct? Otherwise, since it's okay to switch back to the same grade of dino oil, then I could do that even at the cost of tougher shifting. I'll have to consider it.

So after my post I got curious if there'd be any clutch slippage and sure enough, just in 4th (probably also 5th--couldn't go fast enough on that run to find out) and just when it reaches peak HP, not at all until. Darn. Still, the trade-off for really smooth shifting vs. slight slippage on the highway? There are of course other benefits to running full synthetic, and the brand I use (Valvoline 4T) doesn't have any additives (so it's ok for wet clutch) and doesn't make my Valkyrie's clutch slip. Should I try another brand next oil change (maybe Mobile 4T), or is the only fix replacing clutch springs/parts? I really don't want to go back to conventional oil, and I heard going back to dino after full synthetic can cause problems and should be avoided (fact check?).

It's unbelievable. PO had whatever brand dino oil, less than 1000 miles on it--shifted like a Harley and I thought "ok this bike's a hog on shifting." Today went to full synth 10-40, which I've been running in my other bikes, and now she shifts soo much smoother and easier, night and day.

That's good to know thanks. What I'll do is pick up a spare 6 mm screw with the button head and carry it in my tool pack.

So the PO had broken the weld on the side stand loop, without which it's a bear to get that thing down, so I removed the stand and had a buddy weld the loop back on. well in the process, cuz I had to remove the shift linkage from the tranny to get the side stand bolt out, I learned the shifter linkage screw was ready to fall out. That was a freakish discovery, as I had just returned from a 90 mile ride--could have been stranded stuck in like 3rd gear or something! funny how things happen. Anyway, tightened the linkage screw (think it's a T30 torx), but now I'm paranoid that other stuff is loose on my 23 year old bike. Guess I'll spend more time going over every fastener I can reach. Reminds me of my dirt bike days.

I also bought a couple of good horns online, one in particular claimed 130 decibels and pretty much works as advertised on my other bike. it's around 6" in dia, which won't fit in the space for RS horn, unless I figure a new location. Also, I don't really want to add longer wire to what's there. I'll go to HF and check out the Wolo horn. hopefully it's reasonably priced like most of their stuff.