jlh3rd
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Posts posted by jlh3rd
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his seat saved my #*s....
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and of course by "gas" i mean the liquified product that results from the "cracking" process of petroleum ( not jelly) obtained from deep beneath the surface of the earth and derived from deposits of plant and animal remains over millions of years.......
.......not the "gas" you get from a can of beans.........
....i just wanna be clear......
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well, where else would you get gas.....the sign says, "may contain up to 10% ethanol"
the key being "may".so, your mileage can vary depending on the station where you get gas...............i didn't mention stress....
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i have not noticed a 9 mpg difference in gas mileage comparing 5th to 4th, that is really a lot......wish i did....but, i've never had a decrease, it's always about the same.....goose is right, there are a lot of variables, .........you didn't mention winds, this bike seems to really be affected by wind direction as far as gas mileage is concerned......even where you get your gas could also affect you mileage
powerband of engines is a factor.....so 3300 rpm's in 5th, takes more throttle than 4000 rpm's in 4th....but you are turning more rpm's per mile.....so it becomes a balancing act........but a 9mpg difference, i don't know, i think more detailed tests , as goose said, would be needed.....
a few people have the vmax gearing....i wonder what they get....i have considered it
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silvrt
i've basically had the same question.....i've never had dielectric grease actually fix an electrical connection problem., untill now...and if it hadn't been for this site, i guess yamaha would still be replacing my components........all i know is that i have not had a radio problem since.........
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i had the jc whitney rack....didn't take too long for it to begin rusting.........so i got the yamaha rack, plus buying a new lid......lesson learned.......but if you go whitney, i did use fender washers and rubber washers from local harware store....
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i've had no trouble with that...........the plastic chrome cover can pop off fairly easy, so, as it was suggested on this site, i put a few dabs of silicone adhesive or something similar on it to keep it on....
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i use the ram mount for my garmin 265wt....i needed the extension, and very happy with it....... .....also, i initially tried the suction cup mount on the windshield.......no matter how tight and secure you think it is , or feels ....it will ,when you least expect it, come loose..........believe me, it is very hard riding down central boulevard ( rt 66) in albuequerque, 2 up, holding your gps , and trying to pull over...
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i will for a car....not for my bike.....me personally, i don't wanna find out at 70mph , 2 up, fully loaded in the middle of the mohave, 100 degrees outside air temp., that i shoulda not dropped my air pressure from the recommended ( i know, not required)...tire pressure because of a squared profile...
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when someone makes a post on here about issues, work, or anything done on their bikes, most, if not all people on here that provide a response are basing that response on their experiences or knowledge or both.........my response to your post was based on my experience with my install, which, in turn, had been based on all the posts i had read on this site prior to my install which helped me a lot........i too, thought i could use the original connector......my EXPERIENCE, proved me wrong , I had been warned by others here AND it was stated in the instructions from buckeye that you need to solder the connection..........
so, most people here just try to help and save headaches for other people in the long run...therefore I have dodged a lot of headaches because of other people's opinions and experiences........that's all my posts are for......is to help......nothing personal........i promise not to respond to any more of yours.....
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if you didn't use a sealer where the wires go through the grommet, it will leak, the wires from the buckeye are slightly thinner...i used heatshrink tubing and the yamaha sealer and it hasn't leaked
i also, initially, didn't solder the wires, i tried to use the original connector.........after a few months , i checked the connection while the bike was running, and saw the wisps of smoke coming out......so i soldered 'em.....
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it had gotten to the point with me and buffeting helmet wind noise that if this didn't work, i was gonna look at goldwings
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finally got to take my bike out with the new F4 windshield.....for anyone that's around 6 ft tall and gets head buffeting with a stock height windshield and wants to stop it, this shield , which is 2 inches longer than stock and much wider, ...works..
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thanks.......glad it all worked out...............long story short on the vent ?.......i used a heat gun, VERY CAREFULLY !...to soften things up a little to get that "lip" in.....the F4 shield is thicker than the clearview....and....they were supposed to send me a re machined front face......maybe it wasn't.........but, i got it in...
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drink lots of beer..........
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the "I" basket helped my 07.........the official stance of yamaha as told to me by my dealer is that they will do one swap under warranty.......if you need more info, you can do a search on this site and , i believe, one of the posts actually has the technical bulletin from yamaha shown for this complaint.....
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kill switch on...
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also corroded/loose battery cables......
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easyduzzit is correct
the problem with the stock timing system is that ( and 05 i think is included)...were the two tensioning blocks that the timing chains ran over.......they were made of a phenolic ( type of plastic) material that could wear prematurely........i say could because not all did.....mine seemed to be ok.....others reported worn out at 5,000 miles......and theory was that the pieces could block oil passages or damage the oil pump........many people converted to the geared cam system.......
the handling is easier at low speed than a 2nd gen
and to back up a previous post here.....some people did have issues with with the front engine isolator........
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i had an electra glide standard...03 model.....i made it to 35,000 miles before i had to get a new motor ( i sold it).....i ran synthetic, had oil cooler.....in no way i'm i saying that this is typical......but i was told by numerous people, including harley mechanics, that rebuilds are common/needed around 90,000.....
i had no problems with brackets.....
i didn't have a radio
the bike had the harley shake at idle, but smoothed out at speed. i did not have any vibration, at any rpms other than idle.....
2nd gen bags are bigger, paint and chrome is excellent, aftermarket is exceptional.
i got 11 to 12,000 miles off of my rear dunlops.....my last tire was an e3 and i got about 14,000 off of it.....my stock front tire went to about 26,000.....i do a lot of two up riding....usually make at least a 10 day trip out west every year since 2004....i sold the bike in 07 , so that was 4 big trips on it....one was a 6700 mile cross country in 04
i liked the bike....just couldn't justify $5000 for a new engine
i don't care what kinda pipes you put on any other bike.......you can't beat that harley sound.....
i will not get another air cooled bike
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torque is a measure of how much work you want to do....ie., moving lbs. per foot ( work = force x distance )( and it's not ft/lbs.)....so you wanna move your 900 lb machine .........now , how quick do you want to move it.? depends on the horsepower.........you can put a 40 hp motor in your machine and gear it to produce enough torque to move it, but , you will not go very fast.......put a 100 hp motor, and with properly spaced gearing, you'll be able to produce the torque you need, produce the torque faster, and maintain it longer ( power curve) to accelerate your machine quicker and to a higher speed.....
by varying bore, stroke, induction, exhaust...you effect the hp/tq produced....then gearing helps you apply the torque where you want it to get your machine moving......and then using hp to keep and get it moving faster...........
when i'm in the mountains climbing,...i want torque........when i'm in the flats, i want horsepower
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well kinda.....the original statement was a little vague ( kinda like the manual maybe ? )..but implied the question of "what do you think".....( thinking of running ;.. running amsol now).............................i guess i shoulda said, back to my original point.............
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sounds great.......i'll ship the shield in the f4 box...........but, just let me get pics of my old shield sent so you can be sure you want it........i don't want any misunderstandings.............too many great people on here to have that happen
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silvrt........any idea what shippin is from Pa to canada........f4 says its $15 from them in ohio to Pa.
and as far as a deal.......whatever you think is fair plus shipping...........f4 says my shield should be here in a few days.......i'm outa town thur,fri, sat.......
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