Phrog
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Posts posted by Phrog
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Sent an email to stevemarilyn@hotmail.com to place an order. Thank you!!!
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I'm interested in one of these for my 2005 RSV. But can you add the wiring for a 4pin trailer as well? Thanks!
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I will make plans to get it by the end of October if you can hold it that long. It someone else needs it more than me, let them have it. I'll PM you for direct contact information.
If I could figure out a way to carry a spare engine on the bike, I might be inclined to making the trip myself.
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I have interest, just not sure when I could pick it up.
Looks like just over 2 hours away, let me know. I really don't want to scrap it, I'd like to see it go to someone that is able to take on the project. She only had 40K miles.
If you're able to get down to the Hagerstown, MD area, or if you seriously think that you will be able to come and get it at some point let me know. I don't mind holding it for a bit, but my wife does want me to get "my side of the garage" cleaned up.
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If you had an extra carb rack with the replacement engine I'd sure as heck hang onto those.
I wish, but no extra carbs.
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I think I'm ok with just having the bike running with the other engine. I took the better "chrome" covers and have a great running RSV now. So I'm thinking I'll just get rid of the engine.
Anyone around the mid-atlantic looking for a project? Maybe slowrollwv, you're not too far from me. Even better, I'll probably put it in the classifieds of the forum as free to good home, just come and get it.
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This all happened last year. Originally posted in
https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139369-Engine-noise-possibly-timing-chain-slap
I know that it was just fine until one day it wouldn't turn over. Starter started to turn the engine and then "PING!" it stopped. Tried again and nothing. Hooked up a battery booster start pack and it was slow, but it finally turned over and started, but had that ticking.
I tried to isolate it with a stethoscope, but it was all over the engine. So when I found a used engine for sale Got it for $400, so I just replaced the whole engine. Now I'm wondering what to do with the ticking engine.
Is it worth rebuilding, or should I scrap it.
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Is Salvageable even a word? My engine started this ticking, I believe its as a result of hydrolock. Maybe a bent rod? Is it even trying to salvage? It only has about 40K miles.
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You must've been wearing gloves and a turtleneck with an open face helmet? Your face is a lot more tan than your hands and neck!
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So have any of you got your letter telling you your "free" health care is now going to have a fee? Seems back in 2017 Congress decided it was to a good a deal for us retires and we need to pay a "enrollment fee". I just sent an email to our rep in my district. Will it do any good? Doubt it. I'm just going to be out the bucks as I'm sure the 2% COLA we might get aint no way gonna cover it. If I only had worry about me I would go totally VA.
Long time gone are those promises of "Free" medical and dental for life when you retire. I know that was what my father was promised when he joined the Air Force. I believe that went away right when I joined the Navy in 1993, and everything went from CHAMPUS to Tricare.
I don't know much about the enrollment fee. I haven't gotten a letter, but I know as a retiree with TRICARE Prime, I'm paying a very small monthly amount for health insurance, but it's NOTHING compared to what others pay for their health insurance.
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Ebay. And if you're lucky, you'll find one the same color!
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Shaft friction could be caused by a washer/shim on the shaft behind the part that holds the spring. That would cause the whole unit to extend too far outwards towards the outer clutch cover.
If there is a shim or washer on that side, your better off doing the double gasket instead of removing the clutch and the gear shift linkage on the the other side.
I would just monitor for leaks for a while.
Thanks! Thats kinda what I was thinking. I really didn't wanna tear into anything if I didn't have to. I'm just happy to be riding again!!! BTW, its amazing that you just happen to have a shift shaft laying around to take and show pics of!!! Thanks!
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Has anyone ever run into shift shaft friction on the clutch cover causing no spring return on the shifter?
I got everything working and no leaks. :dancefool:I ended up just buying another gasket and using 2. Gave it just enough room for movement and allowed me to tighten the clutch cover with no leaks. Maybe it's not the right answer, but it works and for a $10 fix, and only 30 min of install (yeah, I had to loosen the right side pipe to get to the bottom hex bolts)
Any potential problems that I'm not thinking of?
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If you ever run into the starter not turning over the engine, remove plugs (I hear the right rear is a normal culprit) and then hit the starter to clear the cylinder.
I had a similar problem as you. Previous owner (my dad), said he found a puddle under the bike and started using the fuel shutoff petcock after that. I was not aware of this when he gave the bike to me. Unfortunately I was not as lucky, Instead of leaking out, it filled up one of the cylinders. I believe this caused me to bend something (rod maybe) and led to replacing the engine. Yes, I just kept hitting the starter even though it wasn't turning over the engine... Who knew fuel doesn't compress like air does?
Since I had the engine out, I too tried to find something wrong with the carbs, but found nothing. Just cleaned them as best I could. But as a precaution, I now always use the fuel shutoff. And IF I ever run into the starter not being able to turn the engine over, I'll remove plugs before hitting the starter again.
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Do you know if this will work on 2nd gens? I have an 05 RSV and the hose between the crankcase vent and the airbox is cracked/dry rotted. I think the connection is different on the 2nd gen though, cause mine connects under the tank after the airfilters where the left and right side come together.
Thanks!
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Lookie what showed up on FB marketplace. Only 23K miles in Inwood WV. Wish I had an extra $3500 laying around!!!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/302747584426160/
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I've been happy with the Glock 42. Chambered in 380 and small enough to easily stick in your pocket, yet enough mass to not feel like a toy pea shooter.
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That didn't take long to go!!! Good thing, cause I may have been making a road trip for that price!
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Just out of curiosity, are you using a gasket for the clutch cover? If not and just using sealant may cause the cover to get too close to the engine thereby too tight against the end of the shaft. It may need that gasket for a gap.
Yes I'm using a gasket... I actually contemplated doubling up with the old and new gasket to give it just a hair more room, but I ripped the old one pulling it off.
I wonder if you have the right cover on the clutch?? a 1200 cover isn't as deep as the 1300Yes, I'm using a 1300 cover, off of my original engine.
All of this started because I replaced my engine, so I have spare parts. Chrome on the other cover is corroded, but I'll try it. I can also try swapping out the shift shaft.... Maybe it's just a missing washer or something.
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Here's a pic of the shifter. The return spring (circled) fits over a pin near the clutch. Very easy to miss getting this spring on the pin if you have never done it before.
I got to it and the springs were actually in place and good. When I got the clutch cover off, the shifter worked normally. Re-installed and it was working until I tightened the clutch cover. And the end of the shift shaft has friction marks from rubbing on the cover. (pictured) Doesn't seem to be bent/warped. Just too long.
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Thanks MiCarl Grubsie and Puc!!!! This is why I love this forum! You guys have seen it all with these bikes. And your memory is a whole lot better than mine!
Hopefully I can finish her up today and get her back on the road. It's been WAY too long since she's been out.
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There is a spring that returns the pedal to its neutral position. It's on the shift shaft, right side of engine, under the clutch. Off hand I do not recall whether you can get to it without pulling the clutch basket.
Thank you! You sir are the man! Your memory is much better and more clear than the stupid service manual is. Looking at the shift shaft section, it CLEARLY says LEFT side of the engine to remove covers, then you turn the page and it magically jumps to the other side and shows drawings of the RIGHT side. Had you not said under the clutch (right side), I would have driven myself nuts trying to make the manual's drawing of the right side somehow match up to the left side.
Thanks again!!!
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I just found it in the service manual. Looks like theres a couple of springs behind the middle gear cover where the shift shaft connects. I just changed the oil!!!!
Does anyone know how much oil will come out if I take the middle gear cover off if I don't drain the oil first?
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Question: What provides the "spring return" on the gear shift lever?
I just replaced my engine and got it all back together. What a PITA, never wanna do that again!!! Anyway, I shift gears and the lever does not return. Its not jammed or anything, it easily moves back in place by pressing the other side of the shifter. Did I miss a spring or something when I put it back together?
Thanks in advance!
Run/turn/brake light bar for 2nd gen ventures
in Member Vendors
Posted
Got it just before Christmas. Finally got around to installing it today. Only took about an hour and I was taking my time. GREAT product, Easy to follow instructions, and works perfectly! Thank you for making this safety upgrade so easy to do!