Brenner

I love seeing some else resurrecting a tired ride as I did. Thumbs up and hats off to you sir.

Just saw this post and thought I would mention what worked for me when I cleaned up my virago tank that had sat for 24 years (no kidding not exaggerating years sitting it was thick) with varnish in it. I was on a budget and bought a gallon size CLR bottle or rather the local hardware brand equivalent and used some small chains of various lengths. I let it sit over night after capping of the openings and did alot of shaking. I recovered and strained the product to see what came out. It worked GREAT and the inside finish was amazing and like new. I used my inspection camera to check it thoroughly through and was impressed. It cost me less than $20 and a an hours or so worth of work. Best money I spent. I did not need to coat the tank afterwards but once drained I immediately flushed with mineral spirits to prevent rusting. I just sold that bike last week and the tank was still like new inside. If I ever need to clean a tank again I will use this process first as I am a strong believer in this method. In fact I ended up using the used clr again in another tank on a 2 stroke trail bike before I disposed of it. It did both tanks before the color of it made me dispose of it. Try it you might be surprised and it won't damage your parts, but do use gloves and be prepared to shake it up with the small chains as they are what helps scrub the tank inside. Good Luck.

All the royales I have seen and know of have the same setup Gary has mentioned.

Well I lost my whole left bag on my first ride as I simply forgot to fully lock it after doing some final adjustments. noob or not I assume it does happen at times... I am just happy it didn't hit a car and cause damage or an accident. It could have been much worse and thankfully it was my bike and not one I borrowed.

Well with the information I have found out here on this site I am going to attempt another modification / upgrade to my scoot. I won two pairs of Harley Road King new take off pipes for $3 in an ebay auction. Now I tell you they are NEW NEW, no scratches or discoloration and are from a dealership that took them off for a customer for customizing pre-delivery or so they state. I am not sure how I will make them fit as I would like to make them look factory and have seen a few options online and time will tell. I believe that if I leave them stock I should not need to rejet the carbs as it may not be needed as I have read online. After they are on I will find a new home for my MAC or Jardine slash cut stainless pipes. I will post pics once completed. The beauty is I have two sets to work with and if not happy with the sound of the first set I can pull the baffles on the second set to see the difference. I am aiming for a low deep sound not overly loud. I hate to cut a nice set of factory 83-85 pipes I have but they are not loud enough for me and I want these to look like they are somewhat stock. Let the madness begin......

Yup, experience has shown me you are 100% correct. I admit I did scuff up the bags and fill the scratches in with polyester puttey and a quick shot of base coat to make them green again before riding out in public. I am running the damaged reflector as a casualty and to remind me of my inexperience. This will all change soon as the paint will be repaired and the led marker lamps will be installed along with green led under lighting for parking. Did I mention my Harley Road king pipes came in today? Trying real hard to make myself love this bike. Oh and the Harley pipes will remain chrome just for Marcarl.

Perhaps this is part reason the 86 and later did not have removable bags? Oh well I am over it and honestly put a few more minor scratches on it during my education. Maybe in the next week or two I will touch up the bike and hide all evidence a NOOB like me rode it. lol.... If we can't laugh at ourselves we have no right to laugh at others.....

I have not attempted any mods on my windshields as of yet. I tried to use my dash vents but was unsure if they pushed any usable air. Don't feel bad about cracking the original windshield as I have done it too. The windshield my bike came with was hazed and when putting pressure to buff the haze out a small crack it had near the mounting holes quickly made the shield two piece. I had a Harley tinted shield mounted ( can be seen on my initial post of pics of my bike) and was considering cutting it down as I have already drilled the mounting holes with success. Squidley thanks for mentioning the removal of the tubing for increased air flow I might have to try it.

Let me ask something maybe no one has thought of yet. Vonwolf's guage set requires an inline restrictor as everyone recommends so is it not possible for him to use the restrictor he has going to the boost sensor just for the set up (sync)purposes? Yes it sucks swapping it out from line to line or maybe use it in a gang valve as mentioned earlier? The boost valve is not active during idle (sync) rpm range. Just a thought as it serves the same purpose for the boost valve does it not? Any who just a thought and it gave me the idea of using the spare inline restrictor I have for a guage I might install on my bike in the near future. Good luck.

I also have a spare bracket if you cannot find one for free. I will have to dig it out of my scrap parts pile and I am not sure but I might have a set of better diaphrams if I have not given them away already. I will check, I did have three sets of carbs but one set went to another that I gave a parts bike to after I finished my project. I kept two sets of carbs, one from an 83, and one from an 85 the set from the 84 went with the parts bike. I am considering using the 83 on my project in the future with an experiment that requires the off port carb nipple. Again if I have anything you can use you can have it we just need to find a way to get it to you.

On my to do list for tomorrow now that you asked. I just need to remember. My memory is great but sometimes just a little too short.

For those who have not seen these decals they look great when applied to your scoot. I have mine running along the right edge of my windscreen for a ricer look.

Late to the party but I have to make one small recommendation. If you are considering using plastidip as mentioned by Doug, use it in a place where there is very little to no abrasion or heat. The can says one thing the product does another even with proper prep. I did plastidip where the bags latch and with one fitting the plastidip was damaged. It cut through. Great product for other locations.

Kevin, thank you very much. That is exactly the info I was looking for, I knew there was a difference but was unsure where or how. I can see the 85 -89 are the same module and answers my question about if the 1200 and 1300 ran different curves with the different displacement. I have not used my 85 tci yet as I have been running my 84 tci so I just might try it to see if I can note anything different. I am going to look for a vmax tci of similar year just for fun and see how my bike will perform with it. I am hoping that if I do learn enough of the little details that are often overlooked maybe down the road I can pass the information on to someone else to assist just as you have done for me. Thank you again.

Thanks Gary, in my original post I was and am looking for specifically the 41R revisions not the general part number and year fitment. I might consider trying a v-max tci just to see what happens on my stock engine.

I would like to ask if anyone here knows or actually has seen a difference in the 41R series TCI? What I am asking is that I have three different TCIs and two are of the same year and have the same part number 41R-10 and color sticker but my other has a different color sticker and is a 41R-11. I have not seen any later model year TCIs so I do not know if it is a difference in year of manufacture or if it is a difference in programming. Meaning with the difference in part numbers might there be a difference in timing curve and or advance? If so what might be the more desirable tci to run? I have been considering swapping to see if I note a difference but I am not a highly skilled rider with this bike yet and am not able to test each module to their maximum potential to see if there is a difference. Does anyone know if the tci of a 1300 have the same timing curve or ignition advance?

More often than not the "Limited Edition" is limited to how many they can sell of that model. I have seen decals much like that in the aftermarket and am trying to remember what vendor had them. I know it has been a while but can't put my finger on it.

Thank you my friend.

Bluesky, I am trying to let this issue go and once again will politely state that my beef was that someone posts a video that is time lapsed and says that I destroy engines with this tool which is not related to what I posted in my opinion is an attack. I am not arguing that mercury is something that must be handled with respect as it is dangerous but rather in a controlled environment (the manometer) when used correctly and responsibly as intended it is a hard to beat tool. Mercury does not expand and contract with temp, it does not leave a film or residue in the manometer tubes so it can be read quickly and accurately. I am sure the poster of the video and many of our members who have fillings from dental work have had contact with mercury. I am sure unknown to them the mercury I use is caulk mercury from a dental office used in the process of making amalgams and alloys for dental repair. I had access to it and it is purified so why would I not use it? This stuff even today is not cheap, hatd to acquire, and it is a quality product. You are right it is the tool I have and it is tried tested and true if respected while being used and I have used this over 20 years and no damage and will not lend it out. Regarding my beef, lets do the math : the video posted is time lapsed over 2 hours according to the description on you tube of which it came. Now our bikes are supposed to be synced at roughly 1000 rpm ( our tach might be a bit off one way or the other) so that means a single cylinder in this engine reciprocates 16.6666666 times per second and I'll round up to 17 revolutions per second for easy numbers. Can anyone honestly say that trace of mercury accidentally contacting an engine component during combustion process for a 17th of a second during a carb sync do the damage shown in a 2 hour video of a large amount of mercury on a stationary object? So my point is why would someone use that video when it does not directly relate? I suppose it is the only one available to make their point or maybe they did not consider the other factors I have mentioned. venturesome has requested an apology from me and has called me arrogant, and my reply is that I maybe so but for a reason in which I can back up and when one is challenged or vilified is it wrong to defend oneself? If it happened to you would you apologize and make the other look correct when clearly they are not? I would not fight if their point was valid and accurate to my original post. I have not heard a response about the timing of the video, and perhaps it is not needed as it proves I am correct. Accurately show me I am wrong and I will apologize openly and publicly as we all make mistakes. I have been told this forum is for respectfully sharing opinions but this has proven it otherwise when one as myself am thrown under the bus for a tool I use and demonstrated in an inaccurate timeline video. Okay, please no more trouble over this, time to let it go, I just compare apples to apples, and time length to time length, and reactions to reactions before I make replies and I wish others would respectfully do the same. Every family at times has bumps in the road let's not have this steer us in the wrong direction any further and thank you to those who have shown support on my side of the disagreement.

Thanks guys. I did find the leads to the clock on the wiring diagram on the 12th and noted the red lead is my battery power so it would be the memory . I do not have any corrosion in any of the harness as it was thoroughly gone over when the bike was reassembled from the bare frame. I was hoping it would have been a pin fit issue or something easily over looked but all other items (hazard lights, etc...) in the circuit with the red lead all operate so it rules it out down to the cms itself. But on another note I have not had the problem since my original post. The only thing I have done differently is that I have been riding the bike almost every day. Right now it is a "can't fix what's not broken" situation. If it happens again and I am able to confirm the cause of the concern I will post here in effort to assist other who might be having the same problem. Thanks again.

Micheal, I am really curious about your description of #3 . Are you stating that you ride it come to stop then sit for awhile and the bike will quit? If so have you noticed if it is quitting when the cooling fan comes on? I ask as many of your items sound power related and quite possibly when you bike is idling maybe you are not charging enough to support the power the fan requires? Just a thought. E1 and E4 have a low voltage possibility also according to my service manual and having to keep a trickle charger on it could also be symptoms of a bad battery and or charging system. I whole heartedly agree with the other possibilities already mentioned to you but I honestly would look a little further and even check the ground cable on you battery going to the frame as your symptoms could point to a problem there. I have used three project bikes to build mine and two of them had the ground cable I mentioned modified by previous owners. Again just a thought that is a little different than those already mentioned.

Didn't see that one coming, I like it.

It really shows how well thought out some of the features were. I really liked how they showed the "niftier" corner pieces for corners that might be damaged. In all practically I have seen many panels that had damage in the same spot where the cover were to go. Well done.

Freebird I respectfully understand your response. I my defense why would someone post a time lapsed video of a sizable amount of mercury poured on a stationary piece of aluminum stating that I would destroy an engine? Am I that stupid to pour mercury into an engine and wait for it to react? Is a running engine stationary? Or when mercury contacts the running engine does it damage on contact? My point is that all I stated was that I used my manometers on my venture successfully. I did not tell anyone to use them only or what was right and wrong and now I have others posting how I may be damaging an engine. All they needed to state was in their opinion they are not comfortable due to their specific reason. Traces of mercury that may have inadvertently made it into in a running engine will not in no way do the damage that they have shown. Believe it or not there is a combustion process in the cylinders in which the mercury would make its way into by means of vacuum then expelled through the exhaust. Time is a factor in this chemical reaction and I personally felt that video was unnecessary as it does not apply to a moving component as an engine. I have seen posts where I have seen comments made by those against me were in my opinion wrong but I was courteous enough to consider the fact that they had an opinion too so I did not reply. Why were they not friendly to me and serve me the same courtesy? When I am unsure or do not know something I openly admit it but I am not comfortable with others trying to make me look bad intentionally or not by use of a time lapsed video on a stationary object. I do not want problems and if you review all my posts and comments since I have joined I believe I have never put anyone down, degraded another or another's choices. I have highly praised this forum, advertised to others, and have a the site address sticker on the front of my bike and the emblem from you on the rear and highly respect those who have assisted and made constructive recommendations. Now I feel that the dog I have been petting has turned around and bit me for no reason. Touchy? It has not been a good week for me bit but I am not a dumb a**, and if they want to compare apples to apples so be it. They claim a trace of mercury in an engine for a fraction of a second "IF" it happens destroys and then they show a video of a "TIME LAPSED" video of a large amount of mercury that clearly has taken much longer than seconds (2 hours according to description). It's like saying "Do not wash you bike with water cause if you leave the water on long enough the metal will rust". Maybe they have not handled mercury before as I have and currently have 3 pounds of it from an old dental practice. I am familiar and have used it in vials on pendulums on antique rare clocks as well as my tools. My point again is all I stated was that I used my manometers and they make me out to be doing wrong. Is that fair? Now if I make a recommendation how trust worthy can it be after they try to make me look stupid? I really was hoping to become someone who could advise and help on this forum and my area and even have altered my bike with some not so traditional changes that was recommended here so I could confirm how they worked for me. I have been careful with my recommendations to not steer anyone in the wrong direction and trying not to be biased as can be seen in some members (not a bad thing on venture specific site). If I owe an apology then I am man enough and apologize to those I may have unintentionally offended except to those who have tried to make me look bad. If you want me to leave the site because I made a simple post of what I used to sync carbs and my defending of my actions on my personal bike that I KNOW are not damaging as they state then I will do so at only your request. I do not want a war but I do not want to be belittled or put down as I did not sign up for this on this site. They have more seniority and may think they know all but in all fairness everyone makes mistakes and just maybe I am not wrong on this one. This is supposed to be "family" and "family" should not be destructive to each other. I respectfully await your ruling, I am really not hard to get along with but do not like to be made to look stupid when all I did was make a harmless comment about what tool I used.