mcgyverit

got the front calipers off and they looked pretty much like the rear with the fluid in a gelatinous state, so spending a few hours cleaning parts before assembly. now I just need to find a brake line for the left side caliper to reach from the caliper to the m/c. on a separate note, I fired it up yesterday with the fairing removed and was checking to make sure turn signals and brake lights worked on the rear after installing, no turn signals but brakes worked. with the circuit broken on the front signals since the fairing was removed, does that make the rears not work as well?

thanks flyday, making progress slow as it may be, but hoping to take it for a ride around the block here in the next couple of weeks if I get the brakes working the way they should.

pretty much have the rear frame and support section back together. began taking off the front fairing to get to the wiring issue concerning the brakes and also to begin working on the rest of the delinking of the brake system. https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11058612_857225077654289_1384057810424318961_n.jpg?oh=b656a5448b8658f3ed7e281e94e5db3c&oe=55715A9A https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11061774_857225140987616_3013983096489349950_n.jpg?oh=44e1b9fb7acac93a651e4e6438fcbea3&oe=55BC1298 https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10989031_857225180987612_4463187487796772705_n.jpg?oh=9d115b6b6a7e361cbd2622b9535d8bf0&oe=557B6776

Brender, good enough. Found the tabs and you are right, pretty self explanatory. Should have looked closer.

it was a short start putting the rear frame back together as I could not figure out how the plastic inner rear fender goes back together. when I was taking it all apart it fell out of the rear and didn't see how it was in there. looking in the manual I cannot find a clear pic of how it goes together. anyone have pics or a description of how it goes?

rear brakes are back on and bled. feels pretty good for now. next step is putting the rear frame back together, then start on the front brakes. thinking about that I think I am going to pull the whole fairing off and go over a lot underneath there just to make sure it is clean and makes sense. plus that will make it easier to run the new brake lines.

Got the seal kit and put them in yesterday. first set went in really easy, second set not so much. ended up having to get a dremel and wire wheel to clean out the grooves of all the residue so that the seal would fit/stretch properly. all back together, mounted and tomorrow work on bleeding the air out of the rear. once that is done, start on the fronts along with putting the rear frame/gas tank etc. all back together.

got the rear caliper apart today as well as the pistons and they looked pretty good. although lots of brake fluid that congealed inside each half. cleaned it all up and plan on ordering a seal kit. anyone have experience with the ones on ebay and their quality?

PH, thanks again, that helps a lot

reading the manual says that air can move the caliper piston out, is that true?

thanks for the pics! clears that up for me.

Prairiehammer, it is the small cup that goes on the end of the cylinder inside the dust boot. at least that is the way the diagram shows (and I am interpreting) on the manual

received the rear rebuild kit finally and swapped parts out and assembled. only issue I had was now that the whole assembly is working the way it is supposed to it is a lot harder to assemble the snap ring while fighting the spring the other issue I had was the rebuild kit gives a cylinder cup that shows it going on the end of the cylinder, but I don't think that is needed as the piston from the brake pedal would go up inside the cylinder. any thoughts? removed the rear brake caliper to make sure the pistons move as they are supposed to, but need to read up some more on that process. seeing as the rear was all gummed up from sitting I went ahead and ordered a front rebuild kit as well and will begin the process of rebuilding it as well.

took apart the m/c and now sonic cleaning of some of the housing, but ordering a rebuild kit anyway for fresh seals and such.

finally getting around to cleaning out the m/c for the rear. made the plug for de-linking the system, but when I opened up the reservoir it was not a good site. so let the tear down begin and hopefully get it working again.

I made this trip 6 times this past October while down there for the Bean Festival and Outhouse Races in Mountain View. after completing it the first time we walked into one of the shops and the local guy told us that there were 231 turns from Melbourne to Mountain View. didn't much like them at night, but during the day they were a blast. one of the shops in MV sells a shirt related to that stretch, but I didn't realize it until it was too late. guess I will have to go back and do it again.

lsutley - thank you for that little tidbit on the vmax junction block. on the rear, this is where the front brake comes into the rear m/c. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/3222e261-63ad-4eba-9d3a-2c466d49e175_zpsbb142f5a.jpg this is where the rear is coming into the rear m/c block http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/50c22693-c4f7-42a2-99aa-33ff19e70663_zps9be45810.jpg I tried to take the rear line off and hook it to where the front is mounted but it doesn't reach. so can I just plug where the front is mounted?

went on vacation/work trip for the last week and when I came back home and opened the garage door got a huge whiff of fuel. turns out, I had pulled the tank off again to get started with the de-link of the brake system and when I set it down the weight of the tank sliced the gas line and caused it to leak out about 1/2 a gallon. but the lines needed to be replaced anyway as they were old. got the rear brake system pulled apart and plan on rebuilding the master cyl and de-linking it as well.

resurrecting this topic, anyone have pics of the de-linked set up that uses the double banjo either at the front master cyl or at the front caliper? I am heading down this road on my '84. from what I can tell the rear brake line will have to be longer than the current one as it wont reach the "front" opening, is that true? is the size of the dbl banjo bolt the same whether it is at the caliper or master cyl? 10mm x 1.25?

Great looking bike, good luck getting it going. Would like to see some more pics when you get time

I know it is a silly update, but got the tank mounted back the way it is supposed to be and went ahead and filled it up and was happy to see that the new fuel sending unit was working as it is supposed to and showed bars on the instrument cluster. next step is brakes, going to disconnect the rear from the front and tie the fronts together. all this after I make sure the calipers are working as they are supposed, not holding by breath on that one.

after a couple of days now of trying to get it to start it finally caught and ran. and the best part it idled. I only let it run for a minute or so since I didn't have a lot of gas in the fuel tank. idling at about 1200-1500 rpm's and sounds good. this was with a bench sync so now that it is running I need to get them fully sync'd up. thanks again to the site for all of its help to date!

amidst cleaning up for another project I walked by the bike and thought I would turn it on to see which carb/float was causing the leak. the good news is that after letting the carbs sit overnight with fuel, the float loosened up and no longer overflows fuel. so this encouraged me to hold off cleaning up the other project and begin to see if I could get it to start. the bad news is it wouldn't fire off. so I need to sit down and retrace all my connections and make sure I didn't forget something important but so far so good.

got the carbs back on this weekend. flushed my fuel pump out to make sure that there was no debris in there as well after getting the carbs and gas tank clean, didn't want any chance of that problem again. hooked the tank up, put some gas in it and powered it up. fuel pump was cruising along and I was looking for leaks anywhere around the carbs. I am smelling fuel and see it running down right in front of the rear wheel. crap! thought maybe the tank was leaking. pulled the tank back off and power it up again and see it running out one of the overfill tubes. great. frustrated at that point I turned everything off and went to researching as to what could be the cause, seems as though one of the floats must be stuck from what I have read. about that time I got distracted with something else so I left it alone and will come back to it soon. getting very close to good running condition though. if I can get it to idle that will be a huge step it getting road ready for next spring. over the winter I am planning on getting the brakes sorted out and working. that should be really all that is needed to get it road worthy. cosmetics will come later.

apparently once clean so completely some graphite lube help the brass parts slide easier. all is back to normal, so going to try and get it back together this weekend