bobber

Hi Earl I would like one of your heavy duty clutch spring kits. Seems my spring free height is out of spec and the clutch slips on my '93....kinda goes hand in hand. I live in Calgary, Canada so actual shipping costs apply to the purchase. Do you have any idea how much this would be? Just a couple more quick queries: Does the force needed to pull the clutch lever in increase with the stronger spring? Can you provide some details on how you would like to handle the purchase? That's it for now. Thanks Rob (bobber)

I got my diaphragms out of Britain also. They seem like pretty good quality and others on this site have vouched for them. I will go ahead with lining everything up as suggested as a little more time and effort will likely pay off. I still have a bit of wait before I can ride again anyway...Canadian winters tend to hang around! Thanks again for the reply. Bobber

Thanks for the reply Zag. This is my first time replacing diaphragms so I wanted to get it right the first time. I'm not sure but I would bet there is no adjustment of the new diaphragm once its installed on the old slide. Every slide was the same with the little hole being at the bottom (6 o'clock) so its likely that's the way its supposed to be. Bobber

I just purchased new diaphragms for my 93 Venture and noted after pulling the slides out that there is a small hole in the bottom of the slide that sits at the six o'clock position when installed in the carb. The diaphragm tab sits at the 1 o'clock position. My question: "Is it important to install the new diaphragms onto the old slides in the exact same position (small hole in the slide sits at 6 o'clock and the diaphragm tab at 1 o'clock)?? Seems like I would have to be precise. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Bobber

I recently replaced some shims on my '93 Venture and I noted after removing the front valve cover that 4 of the cam cap rubber plugs that regulate oil pressure were missing. Looks like the the plugs have been missing since the last time the previous owner removed the valve covers. I am not sure what issues can be caused by not having these plugs in place. The bike seemed to be running fine before doing the shim replacement. Seems kind of odd for so many to be missing. Would there be any reason for the previous owner to leave them out? Is there any damage that can result from this condition? Hoping someone can shed some light on this situation. Thanks Bobber

Just an update on my shimming issue. I installed a thinner shim as suggested by djh3 and then reinserted the shimming tool and "presto" it worked just like it was designed to do. I had the clearance needed to insert the proper shim and the job is now complete except for the valve covers of course. Thanks again to djh3 for taking the time to respond with good ole common sense advice. This site and its members always seem to pull through. Bobber

Thanks for the reply. It sounds like an excellent place to start. One thing I do have is lots of shims so I'll give it a go and let you know. Thanks again. Bobber

While resizing some shims in my 93 I created a problem that I am hoping one of you fine folks can assist with. I had just installed a new intake shim on cylinder # 2, as I turned the crankshaft to release the shimming tool the shim jumped forward out of the bucket and was slightly jambed. After retrieving the shim, I turned the crank to move the tool back into position but it slid over slightly onto the empty bucket. I then loosened the tool and tried again but each time the tool slides over on to the empty bucket in the last 1/4 inch before it reaches full height needed to put the shim in. I have tried slotting the tool on both sides of the cam with the same result. is it advisable to try and force the shim in without the proper clearance? I did note examining the shimming tool it appears to be engineered to operate with both shims in. Any suggestions out there would be most appreciated. Bobber

R6 BRAKE UPDATE Thanks for the input Earl. I examined the front wheel (axle) to see if had the correct spacers but it did not cross my mind to trim the current ones. As it is, I ended up machining the calipers 1/32" which amounted to little more than removing the anodizing from around the mounting holes. The machining was a little pricey but the calipers now line up perfectly. I just got back from a 10 day trip through Northern British Columbia and I am very impressed with the upgrade. I now have much better stopping power which was exactly what I wanted when I started this project. It wasn't exactly "plug and play" but pretty close. (Hope my recovery from knee surgery goes half as well) Many thanks to all those who replied! I can't tell you how much I appreciate the good folks on this website.

Just an update: I installed both R6 calipers on the front of my 89. It is exactly the same issue with both sides...the caliper casting rubs on the outside surface of the rotor. Consistent on both sides. I then installed both calipers on my 93 and although I have some clearance ... it just clears and does not rub. I have measured all the related distances on the 89 and compared with my 93, it all checks out. There does not seem to be any damage to the forks or anything else for that matter. I need 1 mm to center the rotor in the R6 calipers for both sides. I am considering machining off the caliper at the mounting holes which will give me the required distance (1 mm).

Rubbing on the outside of the rotor. I have decided, as you say, to try and source out the root of the problem before I try any other remedies. I'm going to try installing the other R6 caliper on the other side and see if the same issue pops up. Anyway, many thanks for your input. I noticed that you live nearby in Dewinton, I used to be a member of that fine community. If your up for a cup of java sometime, like to see what else you've done with your Ventures.

The issue is with left side front. I reinstalled the original caliper and inspected it to see if the rotor was centered in the slot in the caliper casting. It also seems to be slightly off center but not affected as the slot in the casting is 2mm wider than the R6 caliper. I installed the R6 caliper on my 93 and it fits but just barely (1mm clearance on both sides). I guess that means I have to find 1mm clearance somewhere for the R6 caliper to work on my 89. Not sure where to start.

Thanks for the reply and photos. The rotor is stock Yamaha and the thought of fork damage did cross my mind. I have a 93 Venture that I can try the R6 caliper on and see if I get the same fitting issues. It seems that I have the correct R6 caliper unless someone chimes in to the contrary. Let you know how it goes.

I was never impressed with the braking on my 89 Venture so after absorbing a little info from some of the very knowledgeable folks on this website, I gathered all the necessary parts and ventured forth (no pun intended). The blue dot calipers I acquired were off of an 2004 R6 with the appropriate mounting needed for the Venture. I slipped the old calipers off without unhooking the brake lines and tried the new calipers for fit before installing the new brake pads. The R6 caliper mounts slightly off center and the rotor rubs on the caliper casting. The rotor is true as the casting remains in contact as I turn the wheel. I noted that the cut out in the caliper casting (allows the rotor to pass through) was smaller than the original caliper. I measured the thickness of the rotor at 7mm and the cut out at 9mm. Not much room for error. Makes me wonder if I have the right R6 caliper. I have supplied some photos of the R6 caliper and I have a few questions. Is this the correct caliper for the conversion? If it is the correct caliper why would the rotor rub on the casting? Any assistance would be much appreciated.

Just an update: I did the work on the shift linkage yesterday. I pulled the middlegear cover and lined the factory mark on the transmission shaft with the sqeeze joint at the end of the linkage then did the same with the shift lever and the shaft that comes out of the engine case. Works great! Good call on this one boys! Thanks again for the great info.

Today I went out and aligned the shifter with the mark on the case. This slight adjustment made a difference as to how hard you had to push the shifter to get it to repeat going vertical. I'll go behind the middle gear cover on the weekend and check out the rod. I think were on the right track here and if you don't mind me saying, I am grateful for your nephews size 14 feet! Thanks again!

Better to do the easy stuff first and the linkage is a good place to start. I'll line it all up and see where it lands me. Riding season is just about done here so if the linkage adjustments don't work it will become a winter project. Just put a furnace in the garage so winter projects are now much more to my liking. Many thanks to all those that replied!

The shifter on my 93 Venture has its own mind. I can put it into 1st gear but if I push it just a little too hard it moves to the vertical position. Shifter is tight on the spline and it still shifts fine in all gears but you need the velvet touch going back into 1st or it will push all the way to the vertical. The shifter will return easily enough back to the normal position, a kind of spring loaded return. I was thinking it might be a shifting pin. Any incite on what the issue is much appreciated. I provided 2 pics for your perusal.

The dealer insists that it is the correct gasket so I will go ahead and use it. Not a great fit with the Stant t-stat but it is the correct diameter. Many thanks to those that replied to the post.

My 93 VR recently started weeping coolant from the thermostat housing. Annoying? Yes, but after researching a little bit it seems this particular problem has been experienced by quite a few fellow Venture owners. So, following their savvy advice I went out and purchased a new Stant #13758 thermostat, new plastic t-stat housing, new housing o-ring and a t-stat seal, all from the stealer. After a little persistence I was able remove the old housing and t-stat, thanks to some good advice found on this site. My issue is this: The new t-stat seal does not look anything like the old one and does not fit very well with either the old t-stat or the new Stant t-stat. The part# is correct and perhaps it is meant to couple with the original thermostat. There is a square notch out of the seal that seems out of place. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Will this seal work or should I look for something else that fits better? I have provided a picture. Thanks for any assistance.

Thanks for the input...I'll give it a go!

I'm new to the forum and looking forward to tapping into the wealth of knowledge and experience out there. I recently removed the sub frame on my 93VR in order to deal with a rusty fuel tank. Seemed like a good time to grease and lubricate the rear suspension assembly among other things. Upon inspection I noticed that it looks like the exhaust chamber needs to be dropped in order to access the relay arm bolt. Questions: Is there an easier way to remove the relay arm bolt? If not what is the best way to loosen the exhaust chamber? Any assistance is most welcome. Thanks the bobber:thumbsup: