mbrood
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Posts posted by mbrood
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Aj Tom... blissfully unaware... how wonderful those time were and how darned long ago too !!!!
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Simply beautiful and a perfect reason to pack a lunch and park and take a nice slow time about it.
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So my brother, Steve, and I were driving around in the country and we came upon one of those hills that at the right speed make your tummy feel funny as you go over the crest and Steve smiles... so we turn around , go back to try it again and all of a sudden he giggles... now if you know Steve... well, anyway he turns it loose and we are really getting up a head of steam and I'm thinkin' of asking him about the turn right after the peak when he starts giggling again... I knew to cinch up my seat belt. As we reached the crest we went up... and up... with the road turning off to the right, we both rather knew that this was different. The hood was pointing to a big green thing that finally registered and my right foot tromped onto the imaginary passenger brake pedal. Steve, still staring ahead calmly said, "This will probably really mess up the paint job.", and giggled.
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/upatree.jpg
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The resistance from the inside of the plug holder to the ignition fues should be ~23K, 13K for the secondary of the ignition coil and 10K for the plug holder internal resistor. Unscrew the plug holder from the wire and recheck the end of the wire to the fuse... I would guess modified plug holders. But that IS on a 10% tolerance of the spec but to have them ALL in that region is rather odd.
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Entice them to a "special day all their own"... after all, they deserve a reward too.
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Progressive and parts (minus desired PVC spacer) -vs- stock and parts respectively (the three inch stock becomes a garage novelty. I used no spacer as the bike leaned WAY over on the side stand and I'm a smaller guy, don't need all of the extra to hold up my 120 pounds (like the bike would know...).
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg
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Mighty fine looking trike... it's got "fun" written all over it!
Now sand and gravel will be far less intimidating... as well as parking on a side slope.
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I am with Kevin... on a cold bike... start it up and run for 30-45 seconds and shut her down... now reach in near the heads and compare the heat on each exhaust pipe... odds are that the right rear is much cooler (not firing right). The unspent gas going into the exhaust would be a prime setup for backfire!
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Yep, what he said.
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/oil-filter.jpg
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The clutch slave is fairly buried in the cavity behind the middle gear cover and will need an extended allen wrench to get to the two mount bolts. It means a new middle gear cover gasket and a seal replacement kit for the slave. Many slaves clean up fine but after so many years, quite a few have found scored pistons and a whole slave replacement isn't that much more money.
Smell the drip... oil and brake fluid are totally different. And check that you don't have the somewhat traditional oil draining out of the airbox and down the #1 carb... an overfull crankcase pumps oil froth into the airbox making a mess. Oil also has a nasty habit of wicking out the stator wire fabric cover from the left engine side cover
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First thoughts are velcor or duct tape...
best option is probably a gift certificate
to DQ only redeemable on YOUR bike.
Mike
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Thanks for checking further Dingy. That's another of those "doesn't cross" item for our list.
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Mechanically it looks different in the parts drawings... but the function should be the same and it's just vacuum pump and probably withing the same specs... the initial part number is different (assignment) but the main number is the same,
41V-85861-00-00 and INL-85861-00-00 respective to years.
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The LEDs pull about 1/10th the current that the incandescents do, I see absolutely no way they could have affected the dimmer, especially since it is fed by the reserve lighting unit and goes directly to the computer monitor.
Although LEDs weren't designed to be put on a dimmer, they can be dimmed... just EXPECT some to dim faster than others, it's just the mechanics of their construction.
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I used superbrightleds.com... real reasonable pricing and super customer service. If in doubt, give them a call for info. I did a side by side comparison of the single red LEDs and incandescent used on my accessory running lights, behind the lens, I would have picked the LEDs hands down. Always remember to pick LEDs the same color as the lens... red light goes through red lenses, white loses all of the other colors to come out red and thus the perceived intensity goes in the bucket.
The high beam indicator and dash lights use an interconnected common ground. The dash lights' power routes through the start switch while the high beam gets power from the reserve lighting unit.
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Although the sensor is rubber isolated to it's mountings (vibration), this doesn't allieviate it's mount location from engine heat, mine was relocated to up and to the left of the gas filler neck shroud (vertically) and it appears to be a happy camper there. You can see in the picture that there was some heat involved and a LOT of time, but I think that long brass interconnect tube was a culprit in conducting engine heat to the sensor. Relocation of the boost AND the TCI (for different reasons) is a very desireable mod.
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It wouldn't be the first "twinkie" that was reported to be leaking between the oil and water!
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The sensor should hold a vacuum. A slow leak is overcome by the constant vacuum of a running engine. There is an opening to ambient but that is used as the reference pressure. The seal of RTV to the actual sensor head deteriorates and you get the leak, the amount of the leak being dependant on the amount of damage.
You can see the relative pressure openings on the back of the sensor head and lifting the board (almost always destroying the integrated electronics) shows the cracked seal.
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/boost1.jpg
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/boost2.jpg
You MIGHT be able to reestablish a new seal by carefully slicing along the housing side walls and gently pivoting the internals to get to the seal. The stuff in there is like rubber cement that is still very soft and tacky.
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You can get new ones from Drag Specialties
http://asset.lemansnet.com/static/sites/dragspecialties/flipper/2012Fatbook/#page=793
Running Light replacement lenses Drag Specialties
DS-28015 large red
DS-280153 large amber
DS-280168 small red
DS-280167 small amber
Commonly known as Baron's and Mini-Baron's
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On MKII bikes the top fuse is the ACC but that may be incidental. Normally the fuse is much higher rated than worst case expected load so it is definitely an indicator to find and fix. My first thought would be a pinched wire or splice has come loose. Under the seat and near the trunk are prone to a lot of shaking and jostling but that is just my experience.
Like the earlier comment... what doesn't work with the fuse out?
Ignition, headlights, flashers, radio, dash?
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I think it's primarily a rock deflector for the engine... too low to redirect air to the radiator or up to the cylinders.
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Just remember each accessory running light is typically 4 watts and they add up quick, but exchange them for LEDs and you have about 1/4 watt each, plus no appreciable heat behind the lens.
With the increased load, be sure and check the white stator connector above the driver's left foot peg for heat shortly after a ride a couple times... a good cleaning and a good dialectric grease will go a long way in helping also.
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Stator 14.5 v = 30amp at 4-5000 rpm =420 watts, but only 20 amps at 2k rpm = 240 watts
"Rectifier" (not regulator) =26amp =312 watts so our stock 30 amp stator is not the limiter. (p.32 of pdf manual)
Main fuse is 40 amp, 10 more than stator!
Fuel Pump =.7 amps = 8.4 watts
Headlight = 4.6 amps = 55 watts
Tail/brake light 8w/27w X2 =16/52w
Toss in the turn signal/running lights and you are hitting over 1/2 the rated capacity @ 2k stopped at a light, holding the brake and a turnsignal on and you probably want some juice feeding the ignition system. Add on two 55 W lamps and you are pulling everything it can dish out and then some, expect stator, rectifier and wiring to start heating up quick and you would still be draining the battery!
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"When I turned the key to start the bike again, everything powered on...but when I hit the starter button...NOTHING!!"
Assuming this meant that the STARTER failed to engage or the starter soilonoid to "click"... this means we aren't dealing with an ignition inhibit like the sidestand or gear position/clutch safety on that issue.
However, when she died on the road, that indicates either one of the "safeties" kickied in or power was lost.
It seems to only commonality is power. Although the clips may mechanically be holding the fuses, these holders are older and brittle, first insure that they are clean in the contact area and then GENTLY try to rotate them in their holder, there should be definite resistance to this, not locked but a solid resistance. Rebending them to get more tension is REAL tricky as they will tend to crack, opening up a new kettle of fish. New clips are out there but tricky to find.
Even a dash lightbulb with a 1' insulated wire soldered to the side makes a dandy voltage detector... when she dies, you could pull the false tank cover, open the fuse box, put the tip of the bulb on a good ground and probe the other end of the wire to the RIGHT side fuse clip of the ignition fuse holder with the ignition switch on... if she lights, check the others (since you are there). The small bulb and wire hides in a jacket or shirt pocket pretty easy. If there's no light there, there's no power getting to the ignition circuits, probe the clip on the LEFT side... there BETTER be power there or we are looking more toward the ignition switch.
Weird Traffic Laws
in Jokes and Humor
Posted
In Idaho it's against the law to ride a horse or a women in the middle of the road.
(sometimes you have to read it again.)