mbrood
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Posts posted by mbrood
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Um, doesn't the paper say 5.5" of oil?
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A man and a woman were having a quiet, romantic dinner
in a fine restaurant.
They were gazing lovingly at each other and holding hands.
The waitress, taking another order at a table a few steps
away, suddenly noticed the man slowly sliding down his chair
and under the table, but the woman acted unconcerned.
The waitress watched as the man slid all the way down his
chair and out of sight under the table.
Still, the woman appeared calm and unruffled, apparently
unaware her dining companion had disappeared.
The waitress, thinking this was quite risqué behavior that
might offend other diners, went over to the table and
tactfully, began by saying to the woman , "Pardon me,
madam, but I think your husband just slid under the table."
The woman calmly looked up at her and said, "No, he didn't.
He actually just walked in the door."
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Yep, just like with our idle mixture crews and diaphragm needle settings, you want to stay on the slightly rich side of all settings, the minor loss of peak power is well paid for by engine longevity.
Make sure there is string in the trim head and it is the proper length. Start with both needles 1 1/2 out from fully closed. Get it started and warmed up. Adjust idle so it will stay running. Try to give it full throttle quickly. If it bogs/dies then open the low end needle 1/8 turn and try again. Once it accel. smoothly the low end is set.
Now hold full throttle, slowly open the high end needle until it starts running rough.... almost like it is missing. Now very slowly close the high end needle until it stops doing that. I like to make the high end setting so the engine will once in a while go into that, what I call, 4-cycling mode, and then go back to smooth running. This is one of the hardest parts to get right and can only come with practice and a good ear. At this setting it will as rich as you can get it and still run decent.... if you go leaner you have the possibily of trashing the engine.
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I simply blew softly into the affected hose and SLOWLY let up once the bubble exited the tube... don't know how it got there but I know where it went.
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Depending on the size, these are excellent for taking out stripped Allen bolts... use to outside!
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-power-bolt-out-reg-set/p-00952168000P?prdNo=1
http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_208037701?hei=321&wid=321&qlt=65,0&op_sharpen=1&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0
http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_207242301?hei=346&wid=346&qlt=65,0&op_sharpen=1&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0
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More pictures... custom build on a Lambretta 1000 by Francois Knorreck...
http://www.funlobby.com/200907061246/motorcycle-sidecar-by-francois-knorreck.html
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This guy was truly serious about wanting his sidecar setup to look different...
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/sidecar.jpg
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It's a tough problem that will continue. Solution is simple, get three more bikes and assign each one for the day of the week. See, there's always a reason for temptation to come knocking.
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If it's centered, I would "feature it" and mount a roof light on top, seals the hole and is a whole cheaper option.
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The OEM has a thin "locating" spacer as shown above, with the narrow lip inside the spring and resting firmly against the spacer above, you shouldn't have ANY spring noise as it's not rubbing against anything... that spacer also precludes the spring from wearing on the spacer.
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There is a spool for the push-pull throttle cables, the throttle set runs around one level and the carb set run around the other level. Sounds like one of them jumped off the spool when driving, explaining why rolling off and back on allowed it to "respool". Can't imagine it getting better without attention. It's against the frame on the left side about 10 inches in front of the carbs... you can get there by pulling the radio tray, amps and the inner fairing shield, or just pull the left main fairing. Either cable jumping off would allow the main throttle spring on the carbs to pull them to idle.
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/throttlecable.jpg
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Brad,
That's simply a grand gesture and a darned good cause!
Mike
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So it looks like...
Rear Bearing Replacement
93311-32698-00 bearing #3 in fiche
90387-203H7-00 collar #4 (inner bearing race)
93306-30437-00 bearing #5
93102-25064-00 oil seal #7
93106-40027-00 oil seal #15
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Checked out Harbor Freight?
http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-deluxe-cargo-carrier-66983.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11449.jpg
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The two holes in the case let condensation in so many find some corrosion and junk that needs cleaned up.
The output power transistors are still available, they are protected by reverse spike damping diodes... the early ones were glass (blue and gray) and had a nasty habit of going bad after only a bit over 20 years... there are 8 and should be replaced by ones out of the 1N4001 series. If the diode goes bad, the reverse voltage from the ignition coil typically takes out the power transistor but it too can be replaced if it didn't short to B+ and take out the micro-controller feeding it.... if it did you are looking at a total replace...
If you do replace anything, please insure that you get some fresh conformal coating over the pads to keep corrosion at bay.
You can see the glass diodes here, two for each of the four power transistors on the right...
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci2.jpg
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I had a woman contact me over a photo album she bought at an estate sale inside a box of household linen. It was of an older Navy officer and his family and she just casually kept looking around. She found a match with my website for the Bergall submarine, with the match being the original skipper who took her through the war... she enlisted my help chasing down a relative. I knew the skipper, his wife and only son were deceased but had no lead on the only daughter but I would occassionally check here and there... It just happened to be a Facebook search that brought up a first name match with a high school name of the family's home town and the contact was confirmed and the book was sent to her. A 65 year old woman was looking at herself at 3 in her father's arms... her comments and thanks have warmed two very fortunate people who "only took an interest".
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I applaud the novelty and the "out of the box" ingenuity. And it's REALLY easy to find your car in the parking lot... Works for me!
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As was recommended, it's a lot easier to remove the drain screw at the bottom of each leg while the legs have air pressure, but once the cap is off it's still handy to compress the legs a few times to pump out remaing oil, put the drain screws back and compress the legs and fill each leg with oil up to 5.5 " below the lip (Preferances vary a small bit). Make the change of parts as shown, (being lighter) I didn't use the spacer but your weight will dictate the length you want but, you still want a 1/2" preload as a minimum which I found was the spring and the thin "wear washer and the spacer with the o-ring seal.
Hard to see, but the thin spacer with inner flange sticking into the the spring keeps the spring from working on the surface of the spacer... shown: Progressive install on top, factory removal on bottom...
(believe me, that 3" original spacer will "haunt" your garage... get rid of it!)
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg
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You also should consider changing the four incadescent light bulbs to LED... I got my amber wege bulbs fairly cheap at superbrightleds.com.
The incandescent heat up that enclosed lense and eventually the amber lens melts...
as all will agree... those amber lenses just DON'T show up for sale !!!
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Although the "twinkie" has been known as a major contributor of oil/coolant mix, if you are confident the seals were placed right and tight, I would pull the plugs and see if one is fouled (keeping fingers crossed for all equally lightly sooty). Have you checked the radiator for a gray scum on the top?
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Friends,
Good information from the activity security office
Many on this distribution will understand OPSEC, but for those who do not, Operational Security (OPSEC) is the activity to protect and defend the 'Operations' (movement, location, strength, capabilities, etc.). In this case the message below also regards your PERSONAL OPSEC. The control of your personal movement, location, activity, FINANCES, security, etc. In this increasingly digital world our personal security is a growing concern. Your smart phone is an extremely vulnerable access point. If you are using this device for banking, credit processing, on line shopping, anything .... you must assume the device is
vulnerable and what you are doing is visible to anyone.
Similarly, if you use a thumb drive or similar portable computer storage, you must assume that it has vulnerabilities also. Foreign manufacturers of these devices have been embedding code in the chips to transfer spyware or viruses, and even to 'call home' and transmit your data back to the manufacturing country. For many years these countries have been collecting business and personal information, and using it to their advantage.
Basically, if you are using a computer or smart phone, assume whatever you do or put on that device someone else has access to.
Understand the threat and do not allow yourself to be a cyber victim.
It's time for an OPSEC Reminder. This time I'd like to discuss OPSEC vulnerabilities associated with smart phone apps. Smart phone Apps are inexpensive and many are free making them very desirable. The trade-off is when installing the app, you "authorize" the App developer many permissions over your phone. Here's one example:
The App: Smart Tools (500,000-1M installs), cost: $2.50
What it does: Smart Tools is a complete package of 5 app sets. It includes 5 Pro sets for a total of 15 tools. In a word, All-in-One.
- Set 1: Length, Angle, Slope, Level, Thread - Smart Ruler Pro
- Set 2: Distance, Height, Width, Area - Smart Measure Pro
- Set 3: Compass, Metal detector, GPS - Smart Compass Pro
- Set 4: Sound level meter, Vibrometer - Sound Meter Pro
- Set 5: Flashlight, Magnifier - Smart Light Pro"
Pretty cool, eh?
What permissions does it require: Hardware controls - take pictures and videos
WHAT?! By downloading this app you authorize the app to take pictures and videos with the camera at any time without your confirmation.
Anyone want to question the NAVSEA Photo and Recording devices Ban now?
Please let this serve as a reminder if you use a smart phone, check the App permissions you have authorized prior to downloading the App.
The above is just one small example of a larger set of vulnerabilities.
Be safe in cyberspace!
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The boost sensor is the same throughout the years (83-89) but the timing curve in the TCI was a bit different for the 83 as discussed... but the older TCI units also had a weakness by using blue and gray, glass, power diodes that corrode the leads and lead to failure of an ignition coil, replacing these with 1N4000 series is a solid solution.
The old style diodes (8 total)
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci1.jpg
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Six year old Annie comes home with big tears in her eyes.
Her mother notices and quietly asks what's wrong.
"I nearly died of shame!" she answers.
"Sam from over the road, says that the stork sells babies.
Sally next door said you can buy babies at the orphanage.
Pete down the street says you can buy babies at the hospital."
Her mother answers laughingly, "But thats no reason to be ashamed."
http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/babies.jpg
"No, but I can't tell them that we were so poor that you and daddy had to make me yourselves!"
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I totally agree with the sealer solution, it gives a foundation for the wood and adds surface strength to sand.
rides to hard 4 me.
in Watering Hole
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Yeah? Well, us heavy-weights (at 125lb) have to be careful. Although I seriously don't think the shocks knows I'm even on it.