csdexter

The good news is I fixed my initial symptom and now my cruise control works again :-) The rear brake connector was not seated completely in its mate on the switch and it so happened that the pair of contacts driving the stop lamp were making contact, while the other pair that's controlling the cruise was not. Cleaned, reseated and all is fine now. The bad news is the overall question remains and I couldn't find any more info on the mysterious connector on the vacuum pump. If it ever fails completely, I'll have to patch it with single 0.110" or 0.090" female terminals dressed in heatshrink.

No luck so far. Closest matches (but still far), are: http://swsct.sws.co.jp/components/en/housing.asp?number_s=61890126tss http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/servlet/SubServlet_e?forward=7283-8558-10&plist=list&select=15 http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/servlet/SubServlet_e?forward=7283-8559-30&plist=list&select=15 Thanks for the pointer, dingy. I'll contact the guy and ask, the site is indeed a pain so it makes sense he's going through pains to set it up There is a slim chance it's a custom connector I'll never find for sale, just like you can't find the (e.g.) audio amp/radio box at a Clarion outlet. Japanese bikes are, for the most part, parts bin projects -- but, every now and then, nothing fits and so either Yamaha or some other Japanese contractor coughs up a totally one-of-a-kind custom part. If that's the case, I'll have to use single 0.110" female blade terminals to hook things up. The Hitachi-style 0.110" 4-way connector is too small and doesn't fit the pitch. In a normal world, I would go on the pump manufacturer's site and check what they recommend as the mating connector P/N ... but when I moved it from the smashed engine guard to the new one, I couldn't find any writings on the pump. Maybe I should look closer ... LE: I should also look closer at the connector itself, who knows?

Thanks for replying, M61A1MECH, however none of those are what I'm looking for. The first link points to a Furukawa RFW 4P090 female connector which has the locking wedge on the inside (mine has it on the outside) and the terminals horizontal when viewed with the lock at 12 o'clock (mine has them vertical). The second link points to a range of Deutsch connectors, as used on current Harleys and never ever used on Japanese bikes :-) The third link shows an assortment of Delphi/Packard connectors which are obviously different than mine. Your suggestion about lacing the connector down is very good, however I would prefer I did a proper job and replaced the connector. I got the bike with a lot of patchwork on it and spent some three months removing/restoring all the crappy quick-fixes that were on it -- don't plan on going back on that I'll keep digging Sumitomo's site.

Hi there, I tried searching the forum, the OEM docs (yeah, right, "docs" :-( !) and EasternBeaver's inventory but I didn't find the connector used for the cruise control vacuum pump. It's not the same as the ones used for the cruise control unit or the TCI, the alignment of the spades is different: the ones on TCI and cruise box are horizontal with the lock at 12 o'clock whereas the vacuum pump ones are vertical when viewed the same. The locking tab on mine broke off and now the connector is ejecting itself from its mate on the pump while riding due to vibration. I need to buy a new one and replace it, but can't find where :-( Pictures, if it helps, follow. Male part, on pump (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11818-2/IMG_20130704_113754.jpg Female part, on harness (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11821-2/IMG_20130704_113805.jpg Any help, pointers or hints would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Right saddlebag is 4XY-Y2844-T0-4X (for '02 XVZ13TF, double check the colour code), but very expensive. You're better off with eBay on this one. Right saddlebag guard is 4XY-2842K-00-00 Right lower cowling is 4XY-2835K-01-TY (double check the colour code) Right inner cowling covers are 4XY-2835R-00-00 (upper) and 4XY-2842N-00-00 (lower) The right outer speaker shell is 4XY-8816E-01-P4 (double check the colour code) The engine guards are 4XY-28419-00-00 (right) and 4XY-28418-00-00 (left) The front cowling (I assume you mean outer shell only) is 4XY-Y283G-60-6X (for '02 XVZ12TF, double check colour code), also very expensive. eBay is the way to go. Hope this helps.

I have no written (i.e. documentation) proof to support this, but I'll bet it's a battery saver feature.

A very optimistic estimate clocks in at about $20 for the version using normal power wire (i.e. the stiff version you probably have on your bike) and $25 for the version using silicone power wire (i.e. very flexible). Also, the female terminals that connect to the starter relay coil will have to be dressed in (black) heatshrink instead of the nice-looking translucent sheaths because the sheath wall is too thick for two terminals + sheaths to fit side by side (found out the hard way, when installing mine). It works, but you have to massage them in and that's not the kind of customer experience I'd like to offer :-) I'm also thinking about doing an ignition switch relay-assist harness -- currently working on mine, will post pictures as soon as it's done. I'll update the thread when I've made a decision about offering the above for sale.

I just posted the information in the hope that it will be useful to other people as well, without any commercial intent. Now that you mention it and if enough interest arises, I'd be OK with buying the raw materials myself, manufacturing something like a dozen harnesses and selling them to you for basically the price I paid for the parts + postage. Being such a simple harness, I reckon charging for "my time and sweat" would encourage people to build one themselves instead of buying from me -- and I had no intention of getting rich out of this to start with To answer your second question, the harness I built both replaces the prone-to-failure part (OEM main fuse holder) and relocates it from under the left frame plastic cover to under the side metal cover, on the same side. Also, the OEM fuse holder allowed you to keep a spare plugged in the left slot, my solution does not -- but there is an empty slot in the fuse box under the left side cover so you could very well use that instead. I hope this answers your questions.

Yes, it is a very crammed-up location. Would be a nightmare to have to change it on the road, even if only to swap the spare fuse with the active one. The first thought that crossed my mind when I took the plastic cover away and saw it, was something like "OMG, I'm no gynecologist, this has to come out to a more convenient place!".

Thanks for the encouragement :-) If anybody's wondering how "before" looked like (or what to look for), here's some pictures. First, the back side of the OEM main fuse holder was all blue (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11433-2/IMG_20130611_224316.jpg Second, one of the two redundant red wires carrying power to the rest of the bike was also broken at the terminal (same tell-tale blue salt) (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11487-2/IMG_20130615_190330.jpg You can only see it in the high-resolution version of the first photo, but the metal trace was also broken when it goes downwards to become the female spade terminal. Also, one of the legs of the 30A fuse that used to be there was half-eaten too :-) I have no scientific explanation for how come it was still working, but it did and I was lucky enough to discover it at my leisure, during regular maintenance and not on the road. Ride safe!

XVZ1300TF is the EU RSV (i.e. 2nd gen). 1st gens were XVZ13D (DA, DU etc.)

If anyone is interested, here's how the built harness looks like (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11612-2/IMG_20130622_110642.jpg I just mounted it on the bike today (credits to EasternBeaver for the parts, ComponentShop for the single-colour silicone wire and Towzatronics for the dual-colour wire) and it works like a charm. Also, I've put the main fuse holder under the OEM fuse box, behind the left side cover (fits like it was meant to go there), which makes it a lot more accessible in case of emergency.

By "voice activated" he meant "always on" (which is why you get an "Intercom Volume" control instead of a "VOX Sensitivity" one ;-) ). As said, you don't need the TALK switch for the intercom, but you'll need it if you ever install the OEM CB on the bike. Yes, electrically it's the same switch (normally open, momentary), you'll just have to move the wires from the headlight circuit to the audio MCU's PTT circuit.

That's because most bikes ship with pretty much the same assortment of electric loads: a headlight, a fuel pump, a TCI/CDI box, a tail/brake light etc. so the rating may not be obviously stated in sales materials because everybody assumes "a bike ignition switch will, well, work on any bike". Problems appear when you design a switch for a small, single cylinder bike with not much else beyond what the law demands of it to have in terms of lights etc. and try to use it on a full blown touring machine with extras (radio etc.) added. If the new switch is expensive, you may want to check whether you can just replace the electrical contact part at the bottom of it (i.e. not including the key lock part). That's what's getting hot and that's where your problems would arise from, were it to fail.

If it's getting hot, it points at a poor contact or undersized ignition switch for the power consumption of the bike. If your bike pulls, say, 10A with the engine and headlight running but your ignition switch is rated for 7.5A, you'll cook it really fast. I would carefully check all connections to the switch and the switch itself for thermal damage. I would also consider having a replacement on hand, just in case it dies on me while on the road.

FWIW, there are a few full replacement HID lamps out there. That is, a kit which completely replaces your 7" headlight with a HID projector. I'm unsure how deep they are (and what's the exact amount of space in the RSV fairing), so I can't tell if they'd fit or not, but the point is there is middle ground between "illegal HID" and "LED" ;-) One example is here: http://www.hidprojectors.com/product.php?type=1 The last time I checked, the price was similar (projector HID vs. LED). Also, thanks for answering about garbled or not CB audio. We can now safely conclude the HID messes with the auto-mute circuitry in the radio/amp box and I bet it's conducted EMI via its power leads. Now, the problem in solving that is the vast majority of filters you'd find out there were meant for the other end of the problem: connecting them to a car audio amp and filtering noise going in, rather than connecting them to the noisy equipment and filtering noise going out The best thing I can think of right now (save for designing a filter yourself) is to use one of the automotive DC noise filters around, connected backwards (since the source of the noise is the ballast, not the outer circuit). For example, this one: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/40-AMP-IN-LINE-ENGINE-NOISE-SUPPRESSOR-FILTER-12v-16v-Car-Audio-/111041813209?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Interconnect_Cables&hash=item19da9b9ad9 Yes, it's oversized. If you can find a smaller one (say ... a 10A one?), use that one. Normally, those things connect with one wire to ground, the other to the audio amp's power input and the third one to the battery. Since we're trying to filter things the other way around, the initially "battery" cable should go to the HID's power connection and the initially "amp" wire should go to the bike's power wire (while the ground remains to connected to ground, of course). This assumes, of course, that what's in the shiny box is a passive filter (who wouldn't mind being connected in reverse).

Just for the sake of it: is it just that the squelch triggers erratically? Or is CB audio noisy too? I mean, if you try and speak through the CB with the HID on, do people hear you clearly or with noise (compare with HID on/off). Same question for receiving: if somebody talks to you over the CB with the HID on, do you hear noise over their voice? I'm asking because due to the fact that the audio system on the Venture is more complicated that your run of the mill CB transceiver, the "squelch" actually mutes the radio/cassette as well so it is possible that the interference caused by the HID only upsets the circuitry in the radio/amp (box in front) rather than the actual CB (box in the back). As part of the noise filter install, I would check and try to place the HID as far away from the cable going to the CB as I can. By that, I mean the black cable that connects the radio/amp box in the front fairing with the CB transceiver box under the trunk. It should be the one with a yellow band on the DIN-13 connector.

To clarify, by "ignition noise" I meant the noise produced by the ignition coils and spark plugs as they fire during normal engine operation. You don't hear that on the OEM radio, which means it was indeed properly shielded. Now, about the HID stuff, making sure it has a shield around it is a good idea to boot. If it's a metal case, make sure you either bolted it to another metal part on the bike OR that you have a wire running from the case to a metal part on the bike. If plastic/composite case, then doing the old fashioned trick of wrapping it in tin foil and connecting that to the metal of the bike may help. Be sensible with the tin foil: one or two layers, don't make it into a bobbin Moving on with the shielding discussion, putting the culprit in a metal can only helps with radiated EMI, but there is also the possibility (especially on cheap Chinese ballasts) of conducted EMI, which walks along the power lines and is picked up by everything on the bike. If outside shielding doesn't help, I would try inserting a noise filter on the power leads going to the ballast, as close to the ballast end as possible.

The principle is the same, execution different. A CCFL lamp ballast will simply use a charge pump (DC-DC converter) design to make more volts from less volts so that it can strike the arc and then it simply regulates the current going through the tube. A HID lamp ballast has two circuits in one: one of them is the igniter, which is similar to what a photo flash would use and the second one is the actual ballast. CCFL would use a high voltage (100-200V) with a very low current, whereas HID would use a lower one (50-60V) with a lot more current. Also, the current excursion (cold vs. hot) of HID lamps is much larger than that of CCFL lamps. Having said that, the fact that your radio doesn't pick up ignition noise during normal bike usage means that shielding is indeed possible, just needs to be thought out properly. Bolting the HID ballast on the radio box is, indeed, asking for trouble.

Well, the story is I finally managed to undo the screw that holds the left frame cover in place (rusty piece of crap -- on my shopping list), took the cover out and thought I'd remove the stuff around for cleaning, tidying and as an exercise in "find out where stuff is in good weather, you may need to do that again in the dark, under the pouring rain" :-) Also, the positive lead from the battery was not seated properly when the PO last went in there. So, I removed the battery, the battery box and then started undoing the chunky leads from the starter relay (the relay wasn't seated in its proper place, on the side of the battery box. Yes, the PO was an idiot -- the bike was littered with evidence in that regard when I got it). When I undid the battery lead, a small flake of corroded ... stuff ... came off the terminal. Surprisingly the leads themselves, their ring terminals, the bolts and the matching nuts embedded into the relay were all sparkling clean. I paid little attention to it and moved on. It was only when I finished and I started cleaning the relay that I noticed the relay is actually two parts: a very well made DC motor contactor (the chunky, epoxy potted cube into which the chunky leads are screwed in) and a ****ty fuse-and-terminal assembly. The flake was actually the positive ring terminal that was leading to the fuse. Turned the thing around and saw that the whole copper trace, including the fuse female terminals, was completely corroded. I have no idea how come it was still working up to now :-) Long story short, I'm not going to buy a new starter relay because the relay is perfectly healthy. I'm going to replace the lame excuse for a main fuse holder with a small harness that contains the fuse (and makes it so much less of a ***** to replace if need be) and plugs into the OEM wiring loom and starter relay. I'll keep the thread updated and as soon as needed parts arrive, I'll post pictures. I'm hereby releasing this idea into the public domain, anybody can use the information in this thread to manufacture a similar harness for themselves if they so wish. Schematic follows (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11413-2/main-fuse-harness.png More updates as I have them.

Flyinfool, both Trucklite and JW Speaker make LED headlights that have DOT and ECE certifications. Expensive as hell (about $300) though. The Kuryakin Phase 7 (or what it's called) is the Trucklite and the one on Harleys is the JW Speaker one. Also, for some ridiculously powerful flashlights, see here: http://elektrolumens.com . I have the FireSword and I'm very happy with it (think of a Maglite on steroids).

What cowpuc said, you can fix carbs on the side of the road whereas when the ECU is dead, it ain't coming back. I'm nowhere near as old and experienced as he and I'm more of an electronics guy (though I do love mechanics as well), but I would also choose carbs over injection, if given the choice. The only situation in which I'd go with injection (or retrofit one on an originally carbureted bike) is if I designed and built it, so that I know it like the back of my hand. This is something I'm thinking of for my current RSV, but it's a long term project.

The trunk is held in place on the trunk frame by six bolts: two in front and one in the back, on each side ("front" and "back" with respect to the whole motorcycle). You need to take the carpet out and you'll see them. After removing all six, you'll need to carefully lift the trunk away just a bit so that you make enough room for your hands and fingers to fit and disconnect the speaker (four position) and passenger remote control (six position) connectors. You should also take the passenger headset connector out of its rubber holder on the left side and you should, finally, disconnect the headset cable connector that is under the passenger seat, under one of the metal clamps on the fender (leave the other one alone -- it goes to the CB radio in the black box under the trunk).

(assuming it's a non-California 2nd gen RSV we're talking about) The OEM mufflers are P/N 4XY-14710-00-00 (left) and 4XY-14720-00-00 (right) and they sell for under $450 each -- that being the fair price you can get at most online retailers. A dealer makes their own prices so don't be surprised if they ask a four-figure amount :-( Somebody listed a pair in the classifieds section a few days ago, I don't know if that offer is still up or not. They also show up on eBay, occasionally.

Like they say in the movies: "assumption is the mother of all f**k-ups!" :-) Sadly, but the factory has been consistently less-than-perfect with this model in many regards. Sometimes they forget to grease the shaft splines. Other times they forget to apply Loctite to the shifter bolt. Other times they simply dress the wires different from what their own manual says. Nothing a good full service or inspection can't fix, but just so you know, "new from factory" doesn't necessarily mean "perfect condition" ;-)