Yngbld14 Posted July 10, 2017 Share #1 Posted July 10, 2017 Just bought a 1983 Yamaha Venture Royale and the air suspension doesn't work. I read a lot of the threads with the error codes, but mine just comes up with a 0 on it and none of the buttons work. I tried to find the class module, but with no luck. So I was thinking of putting a toggle switch in, but I need the wiring diagram for the compressor and solenoids. As well as the supply voltages to the solenoids. It's either this or put in a manual air system with a schrader valve and gauges. Any help would be great. Love the bike. Had to updat the fuse panel and other things in my first couple days of getting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted July 10, 2017 Share #2 Posted July 10, 2017 You are aware that it only operates with the key in the "accessory" position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share #3 Posted July 10, 2017 Yes. With the key in the on position the class mod stays at 0. Buttons don't do anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2017 Share #4 Posted July 10, 2017 OK, it sounds like you are not getting any power to the controller, or the controller itself is dead! Also, are you aware that the controller only gets power when the key is in the accessory position?? The Zero is painted on, so it always appears even with the unit removed and in your hand!! I would start by removing the dashboard panel so that you have access to the wires and with the ignition switch turned to accessory look for 12 volts between the red and black wires. There is a fuse for the class unit if memory serves me it is an inline fuse in a separate holder but I don't remember exactly where it is... Here's a schematic of the bike's wiring diagram from this website, hopefully, it will help you out... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2017 Share #5 Posted July 10, 2017 OK, I see Don was answering while I was typing too! Ther key has to be on accessory, not "on" position... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2017 Share #6 Posted July 10, 2017 I see you are only a few hours away from me, unfortunately, I am recovering from foot surgery, otherwise, I would have been tempted to take a ride over there and help you out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share #7 Posted July 10, 2017 Mine isn't paint on. The zero pops up went I put the key to the ACC setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2017 Share #8 Posted July 10, 2017 Ahh, my bad, it's the PSI that is painted on, sorry, haven't worked on one in many years! I'm looking for a copy of the owner's manual... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share #9 Posted July 10, 2017 I appreciate the help. I'm sure the module is probably bad. Was going to try and bypass it until I could find one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2017 Share #10 Posted July 10, 2017 OK, I dug out my old owner's manual to remind me how the system works. Yes, the controller may be bad, or maybe not! So, when you press either the "FRONT" or the "REAR" buttons, a "zero" shows? Does the display show either Front or Rear on the right side? Also when you press the auto/manual does the display read either MANUAL or AUTO? You could try reseating the multipin connector on the controller, or the connector for the solenoid and pump unit which is located under the trunk under a black plastic cover under the trunk frame. You might want to pull your seat off as well, just 2 bolts hold it on, so you can see the wiring better, and also re-seat the big connector that the rear lights as well as the pump assembly. The fact that the controller even reads a zero is actually a good sign that it may be good, but probably the switches for the controller are bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2017 Share #11 Posted July 10, 2017 Getting back to your first post, yes you can install Schrader valves to air things up as that is exactly how the air suspension is operated on the Standard model that does not come with the CLASS system. A word of warning though, especially on the front forks, only use a hand operated pump and never use a compressor to air them up unless you like to replace blown out fork seals!! It has to do with the VOLUME of air delivered, not just the PSI! I even think a bicycle pump might deliver too much volume of air when pumping! I am also leery of using a compressor on the rear shock as well for the same reason! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share #12 Posted July 10, 2017 It just reads zero. Nothing else. Push any of the buttons doesn't do anything to change it. I disconnected all the connectors and reinserted them. Originally it was giving me and E1 so I pushed the connector on the back in and it went away. I then took the seat and trunk off. Found the compressor and solenoids. Unplugged and repkugged them in and still nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share #13 Posted July 11, 2017 I really appreciate al your guys help! Went home redid and rechecked everything. Even took the solenoids out and cleaned them. Turned the bike to ACC and still 0. Noticed that on the buttons there was the illumination dot. So grabbed a jewelers screwdriver and pushed it in a little farther. Well guess what, we had some kind of activity. Played with it a little more while I had it out of the console and I was able to do everything with a little screwdriver... Until I put it back into the bike and screwed it dowm. Now it's E1. Pull it out and lay it on the bike, it works. Back into the bike and E1. Lol. At least I got something. Thanks for all your help. Now anything on E1?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted July 11, 2017 Share #14 Posted July 11, 2017 Definitely sounds like a bad solder joint on the circuit board. Putting it back in and tightening the screws stresses the board enough that a soldered connection is losing contact. There is a tech article in the First Gen Tech Library that will show you what to check and solder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share #15 Posted July 11, 2017 Ive seen it and will give it a try this week. But is there someplace that would sell another rubber keypad that's inside? Or is there a possible fix to make better contact instead of a screwdriver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 11, 2017 Share #16 Posted July 11, 2017 Disassemble the controller and carefully clean both the rubber pad and the PC board contacts with rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to demagnetize the black contact thingies. The copper gridwork on the board can be polished up with a clean pencil eraser. If you have little or no soldering experience, and you want to try the bike out with a 2 to 3-hour ride you are welcome to come over and I'll do it for you. I used to be a NASA certified solderer as well as being an electronic technician for over 35 years, other than my eyesight not being what it used to be and the peripheral neuropathy from diabetes, I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing! I can dig out the controller from my '84 that was working fine back in '09 and we can swap it into yours to test the system out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yngbld14 Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share #17 Posted July 12, 2017 Cleaned everything up resoldered as per the article and whala she works perfect. Rubber pad still takes a little effort to get to work, but none the less works!! Was able to work it with auto and manual. The rear seems to lose a little air over a short period (15lbs in a 4 hour period). So I'm assuming I have a leak somewhere. You guys are great! Hit it on the nose on everything!! Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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