rutman
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Posts posted by rutman
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I know there is different opinions about this but when I bought my 2006 RSV the PO was using a synthetic oil and I could hear the whine in the bike on the way home really good. After I got it home and had to replace my stator so I decided to ask my dealer about the whine and he said to use Kawasaki oil in it and it would help with the noise. So that's what I did and I really didn't hear It anymore after riding it for several miles. Since then I have put a stock muffler back on it and you have to be listening for it to hear it. Just my experience.. My local dealer sales Yamaha and Kawasaki bikes. He also said he uses Kawasaki oil in his personal vehicles. I haven't done that yet but he seems to like that oil.
Eat to ride, Ride to eat
Are you talking Kawasaki synthetic or regular oil?
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Got my Reckless on. Not the best pics. I will get more later when I actually get it out of the garage when there is no snow. Pretty easy install. It did sit a little far forward for me so I drilled some different holes in the mounting brackets to tilt it back some. Other than that no issues at all.
Looking forward to your review of this.
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I just ordered a reckless fairing for my newly aquired RSTD. It will have an Infinity blue tooth head unit and 2 front speakers.
Cool. Can't wait to hear about the install and your impressions of it. I had a Woody's fairing on my VTX and loved having tunes. Been Jonesing for one for my rstd.
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Thanks all for the input. I'm gonna try the needle thing first than if need be run the wires back to the battery. I have never seen the bike charge the battery at 13.5-14 vdc from the time it was brand new. One phase of the charging system being low could possibly cause that? It would be say around 13.3 or 13.4.
I could have gotten a R/R off of Amazon sooner but it was from a Chinese co. Past posts did not recommend using them. Caltric is a CA co. soooo I'm hoping it is a quality made component. Anyway need to put the gas tank back on and will put everything else back together. I'll up date later this evening. Oh BTW I did check the starter solenoid and main fuse. All appear ok. Thanks agin for the input.
I bought a r/r from Caltric and so far so good.
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Looks like you got the midnight RSTD...... I have same bike '07....you're gonna love it.
What brand fairing is that?.
Is it solid with no squeaks?
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The OEM battery in my 2006 died in 2012, I replaced it with one from NAPA, great crank amps and great price when on sale.. decent price when not on sale
I have a napa legend battery as well. Very satisfied so far.
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If when the bike is running and you rev it up to around 2'000 RPM you do get an increase in voltage at the battery to something close to 13.5 or so then you have either a bad regulator (not letting voltage from the stator get thru to the charging system) or you have a bad stator (not making any AC voltage for the regulator to regulate).
If you drop the regulator and disconnect the plug, with the bike running you can check for voltage between the circuits, if you have equal voltage ( something north of 16 volts) on all 3 possible combinations (1 to 2, 1 to 3, 2 to 3) then the stator is ok.
The most likely candidate is the regulator, they are known for failing. You can pick up a used on off eBay for amour $35.00 .
Good luck
And thank you for your advice.
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Yea Djh3, I hope this problem is over. I've lost 2-3 weeks riding because of this.
With my luck I thought it would end up being the stator. Really hope this R/R and the napa battery solved all this charging issue.
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THE SAGA CONTINUES.
Took my 2 week old gel battery back to Advance. They load tested it and the battery was bad. Got my refund and went to NAPA and bought a NAPA legend premium gel battery.
Put it in and rode about 100 miles. Got home and wouldn't crank. @#&%%^&*^%$.
Bought a $32 rectifier on ebay and installed this evening.
At rest the battery is 13.0
Idling the battery is 13.6
Increasing rpm's and the voltage goes to 14.2
Rode about 30 miles, got home and the readings are about the same.
The R/R was a little smaller than stock but bolted right up.
You guys think I'm good now or is my excitement premature?
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I was getting ready to test my R/R. Unbolted it from the frame and let it hang. Cranked bike and idled it up to check battery voltage before unplugging R/R to test. Voltage was 13.6 which I read was good.
Only ran bike for a couple mins, then shut off.
Unplugged R/R. Plug looked very good but the R/R was so hot I could barely hold it.
Is this normal for the R/R to be so hot with the bike only running a couple mins?
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If when the bike is running and you rev it up to around 2'000 RPM you do get an increase in voltage at the battery to something close to 13.5 or so then you have either a bad regulator (not letting voltage from the stator get thru to the charging system) or you have a bad stator (not making any AC voltage for the regulator to regulate).
If you drop the regulator and disconnect the plug, with the bike running you can check for voltage between the circuits, if you have equal voltage ( something north of 16 volts) on all 3 possible combinations (1 to 2, 1 to 3, 2 to 3) then the stator is ok.
The most likely candidate is the regulator, they are known for failing. You can pick up a used on off eBay for amour $35.00 .
Good luck
When I checked it with the bike idled up, the voltage was 12.5?
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Looks like you found the culprit.
Are you saying the culprit is this new gel battery that I just put in a couple weeks ago?
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A fully charged battery thats been sitting for an hour or so should have about 12.6 V.
Then if the no start happens...retest battery voltage while pushing start button, see what it does.
As for charging system, with the bike slightly above idle speed you should have voltage in the 13.5-14.5 V range. The rectifier regulator, rectifies the AC current your stator produces and makes it DC current so the bike systems can use it, and recharge your battery which also produces DC current. The regulator part of the RR controls the bike voltage from getting too high or low. Stock location for RR is in front of oil filter.
Voltage with bike parked, 12.9
Voltage with bike at slightly above idle, 12.5
Any advice.
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Will check battery voltage when I get home What should the voltage be? Should the bike be running when checking?.
Can the regulator cause this? I dont even know what the regulator does or where it's at.
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Another update.
Went on first long ride since Installing battery. Stopped to fill up close to the house. Hit the start switch and all I got was buzzing. Done this 4-5 times then the bike started. Got home and same thing. Buzzing and would not start.
Put battery on charger for awhile and it fired right up.
Seems like during the course of riding; something is draining the battery.
Really need some help on this one.
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There's 2 good forum's for the VTX. VTXOA and VTXCAFE. .
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UPDATE.
Pulled the battery, got out the charger, hooked it up but it wouldn't hold a charge. I bought a gel battery at Advance. 310 cca
$102 after my $10 discount.
Put it in last night and bike cranks right up. Rainy weather is here in Spartanburg for the weekend so probably wont get to put on some miles till next week.
Hope this takes care of the problem.
Thanks for the advice and want to give a shoutout to Eck for his help.
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06 rstd. This happened today all of a sudden with no warning.
Coasting down my driveway coming in from my ride today, all of a sudden it seemed to start to lose power. engine started sputtering, kept feathering the throttle but it finally quit. Turning on the key I have power.
When I hit the start switch I get a bzzt. sound if that makes since but the engine does not turn over.
No warning signs of any kind before this happened.
I need help.
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Well said.
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Ok. Here goes. 06 rstd. On decel I have a bad case of blub-blub-blub from the exhaust. No backfire, just blub-blub-blub. It did this with the stockers and also after I put on the RK's. Just louder.
I thought it might be to lean so I pulled the plugs and they were "white lilly white". I think the optimum color should be light brown or tan.
I want to adjust the pilot screws out a little to richen it up, hoping this helps.
Now, down on my hands and knees trying to find the pilot screws, I see that mine still have caps on them.
How in the heck can this be done? Those caps look impossible to get to, much less adjusting the screws.
Help.
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A member here, djh3, sells a plug n play ignition switch bypass relay that takes the headlight circuit off the switch. I bought one. Super easy to install and highly recommend it.
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While I'm down waiting on my replacement throttle grip to arrive from kuryakyn, thought I would go ahead and change the fuel filter.
Yes it is a pain in the butt to do but I think it's worth it.
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My experience with an analyzer has shown that the best setting is closer to 4 turns out. on a completely stock bike. If you aren't going to try to properly set the screws, go at least to 3.5 turns out for a static setting.
In other threads within the last year or so I have described how to set the screws using just a tach. This method gets you reasonably close to the actual setting with an analyzer and results in an excellent running engine.
Goose
Just curious. Wonder how many turns before you risk the screw falling out?
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old post..
I guess I asked as well a long time ago
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44301&highlight=Adjusting+Pilot+Screws
Cougar, Thanks for this. Just what I was needed.
Diamond Cargo Enclosed Trailer
in Watering Hole
Posted
Any one have any experience with "Diamond Cargo" brand. Looking at a 6x12 enclosed V-nose.