Kurt
-
Posts
92 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Posts posted by Kurt
-
-
What you are missing is the spring that pulls the switch to activate it. You have 2 options: 1-- Buy a new switch assembly, which is the only way Yamaha sells the spring. 2-- Find a spring that is close and make it work.
I had the same problem last fall and asked the local shop owner about it to which he replied "Go to a hardware store and buy a spring and make it work. I spent an hour or better making it work. The first spring I tryed was too weak so had to start over. One thing to remember is that the switch is threaded giving adjustment. Or maybe someone with a parts bike can supply one for you. Good Luck
-
I use Cenex 15w40 diesel oil. works for me. Lots of opinions on oil. My advice is to use a good quality oil without friction modifiers and change it often.
-
Attention getting reminder of dangers out there. Thanks for sharing. KURT
-
It depends on what you are looking for. If you desire appearance then you might go for it. If you are looking to get rid of the corrosion in the aluminum housing it makes very little differance. For the corrosion just use the copper based antiseize. Standard antiseize is caustic on aluminum. For what it is worth, I wouldn't use them.
KURT
-
Good advice, but it is still the heel at the wheel who could have prevented it.
KURT
-
No helmet law in MN. It was repealed in about 1974 about the same time the eye protection law was enacted. Yep I am gonna do what they did in the movie. The must figure we all are like the ones watching Jackass. Did they do a bit on that?
-
You might try an impact driver. The kind that takes a socket on one end and you hit it with hammer. I have found it to be a godsend on screws in the cases of bikes and atvs. You hit it with a hammer while holding pressure towards the direction of rotation you wish to turn. You might want to take a punch that fits into the screw and give it a few raps to help loosen it. I have included a link as a visual aid. Just did a search to find one. Good luck. KURT
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/productdetail.aspx?p=7932
-
Diesel oil is the closest to motorcycle specific oil if not buying motorcycle oil. I run diesel oil in almost everything and have for years. My father started this over 40 years ago and had no problems. It was a lot easier to have one oil on the shelf than 3 or more. I quit using the diesel oil in my pickup and blazer because of the high phosphorous content. The phosporous will damage the catylitic converter if the oil happens to burn or vaporize and go out the exhaust. The high phosphorous content is exactly the reason you use it in a bike. Phosphorous along with zinc protects in metal on metal situations. Cost and availability are a couple of reasons for using diesel oil. The thing with oil is buy good oil and change it when it needs to be changed.
-
Maybe this link will help some
http://www.dauntlessmotors.com/hitch-pages/yamaha.htm#Yamaha_Royal_Star_Venture
-
How about just a plain Road Map:rotfl:
The tape holding it on the inside of the windsheild keeps letting go, and everytime it rains I need a new one. Maybe I should get a laminated one huh?
-
I notice on my 90 a chug at low rpm when I roll on the throttle when I haven't downshifted enough. Kinda like the chug on a pickup that is not shifted down and left to pull out of a slow situation. Roll that throttle and let her bark. Keep the rpm up and see how that works for you.
KURT
-
You can use an automotive load tester if you can get your hands on one. I saw an Auto Value flyer with some on special in there. They are kind of handy as you can also check charging systems. I have an Interstate battery in my 90 with a wire to trick the warning light. I put a gel battery from Batteries Plus in my 3 wheeler and that performs better than any I have used before. I figure a good battery is a good investment.
Here is a link to a tester like I am referring to. Just one I happened upon when I did a quick search. Looks alot like the one I have.
http://www.automotivepartsnetwork.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=79&idproduct=7339
-
I quite wasting my time on sleds years ago. Work on them for hours for a 5 minute ride.
-
Here is a link to a site that discusses safety issues. Shows a little about leathers which may be outdated with the new armor that is available now. All kinds of safety stuff discussed tho and is interesting to read. Just another source of info.
-
When I got the 90 Venture there were a couple of holes in the seat. I used black vinyl and vinyl cement to repair the holes. The vinyl and cement are actually tarp repair items. Most places that repair tarps for big rigs should have it. The adhesive works like contact cement. You clean both pieces with alcohol, then put the adhesive on both parts and let tack over. Once it tacks over just put in place and push together and it is done. If you have a seperated tear you can stitch it together to hold and glue a patch over that. I have included a couple of pictures. If anyone can't find the materials locally they can pm me as we use this stuff at work.
-
Everything that I have read does not recommend brakes on trailers behind motorcycles. The reason is that it could actually cause loss of controll due to changes in loading of the trailer hitch. In my experience with electric brakes I have noticed that the brakes never seem to apply equally. It would be better to lighten the load. Using the rule of thumb applied to commercial vehicles would be a good practice. The trailer needs brakes if it exceeds 40 percent of the weight of the tow vehicle. An 800 pound bike would pull a trailer weighing no more than 320 pounds. That would even be a hard push in emergency situations. Increase following distance, slow down. The only other thing maybe you could do is maximize brake performance on the bike. Good ridin and be safe out there.
Torque Wrench Question.
in General Tech Talk
Posted
Exactly correct. The problem is that until you get that feel you can twist off bolts or strip threads, which creates a whole new game to play.
One question for those using never seize compounds. Are you using a product that is compatable with aluminum? Certain ones are actually caustic to aluminum. I have never put never sieze on a spark plug and am not convinced of the need. One thing to remember is that all torque specs are for clean dry threads. Adding any lube changes the whole picture. Don't take me wrong, never sieze has its place and I do use it in certain areas. Just need to pay attention to what type in each application. Use it wherever you deem fit.