VentureBob
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Posts posted by VentureBob
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The knowledge and willingness to help on this site is amazing. Thank you everyone for being so willing to share your knowledge.
Got the brake light off, took apart and cleaned as per Dingy Instructions and got it all put together and all works like it should.
Back on the road again!!!!! -
Thank you Pmelah, popped right out just as you said.
Not going to clean it and hope I dont have to order a new one. I have an '85 VR with the cruise 4 wire unit so it might be a little spendy.
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Dealing with this now while switch is on the bike. how do you remove the housing from the lever?
Looking at Dingy's write up on how to clean it, I was able to remove the back and spring as well as the contact plate with four wires attached. However the housing and plunger are still on the bike and I don't see how that piece is removed.
Hoping someone can chime in so I can try to get this thing either cleaned today or part ordered tomorrow.
Thank you.
Bob
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Out on a trip now and my switch stop working the brake light but cruise still works. Searching forums using cell phone Dora's anyone know of a walk through for cleaning this switch or do they just die?
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Yeah, I'm interested too. But like the rest just depends on the cost.
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Went on fairly long trip last weekend and notice the bike was sputtering a little and had a little backfire once in a while. Anyway, I pulled the plugs and found that the front left was much darker then the rest as you can see in the photo below.
Some history, I replaced the TCI with the new electronic one from the group buy, I run a shot of seafoam with every gallon of gas, I only use Premium fuel. After replacing these plugs today, I installed Skydocs Shim Mod on the sliders and since the Torx screw was not present I have to assume the previous owner was already into these carbs. Diaphragms looked new with no holes at all.
I do have a set of new NGK spark plug wires I bought from ebay but i have yet to install them. I know I will need to have the carbs synced soon, but I am having trouble finding a dealer that will work on this vintage in my area.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/IMG_0368.jpg
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Have not installed mine yet. Still working on swing arm bushings, but as soon as those parts come in, it will be a long weekend for me to get the ol' beast back on the road again.
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85 has 91k and still turns heads and runs strong.
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I'm getting excited about this. Thanks Gary for putting in all the work for this.
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Is this the Hella 90's you are talking about?
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Hella-90mm-Headlight-Connectors-Adjusters/dp/B000CSWB4S]Amazon.com: Hella 90mm Low Beam Headlight, H9 Bulb, Connectors, Adjusters, Each: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51EKKZNERYL.@@AMEPARAM@@51EKKZNERYL[/ame]
Looks like with your $60 mounting braket this set up could be done for under $200
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Does any one know where I can find the circuit board?
I have a complete dash unit out of an '89 I would like to sell. PM me if you are interested.
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Have an 85 VR. I just restored the trunk, is/was there some kind of strap or cable that keeps the lid from flopping all the way over onto passengers seat? I was thinking of attaching some kind of cable but thought I would ask here first in hopes to get some creative ideas on how others have done.
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If you don't mind, that would be great. PM me with the name and adress to send it to and I will send it out this week.
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No, i never did connect directly to battery without some kind of resister like the MOD talks about. I tried making my own but when it did not turn out the warning light it was suggested to me here on the forums that my CMU could have cracked solder joints. Not knowing how to solder Ii lived with the warning light until I ordered some parts from skydoc, I went ahead and ordered his patch wire for the fix thinkng maybe I screwed up the one I made some how. But when his did not shut the battery light eiher, I had to believe that it ws cracked solder joints on the CMU. So today iI bought soldering iron and tried my hand at soldering it myself and that is how my CMU ended up worse than when I started. Leson of the day is to know your limits or pay big time.
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Thanks for your help, I got all the bulbs worked out but in my novice attempt to fix battery light on the CMU I made things much worse. Now it does not do the cycle test and the gas gauge no longer works AND the darn battery light is still flashing. guess I am looking for a replacement CMU for an '85 VR
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Yes I do have a gear indicator. The signal, Nutual, and all the Blue and White wire seem to be work fine (I think these are the actual dash bulbs) When sitting on bike, on the right side of the dash there is a socket with Blue and Green wires that is the dim lit bulb in the picture. Then I have socket with Yellow and Red w/Yellow stripe not working and finally a Blue with Brown wire socket not working. I assume these are indicators for High beam, Headlamp and cruise. However switching any of these on or off does not activate any of these bulbs.
Just a thought but I thought my cruise bulb worked, could it be that the CMU needs to be plugged in to illuminate this bulb? Also since the headlamp is removed would that be why Highbeam bulb is not illuminated? Maybe the only issue I have is the dim lit bulb that could be the Headlamp bulb since I have it unplugged.
Sorry if I sound confused, it's becuase I am.
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Once again I am faced with dreaded electrical issues. After successfully upgrading my fuse box (Thanks Skydoc and GeorgeS) I was feeling confident to tear apart the dash and replace all dash light bulbs and solder CMU (in way over my head with the CMU now) anyway I notice some of the bulbs are very dim and burn for a bit when key is first turn on but then flicker out. I have turned the dimmer knob up and down and although it does affect the bulbs that are lit normal it does not affect the dim lit bulbs.
I would think if there was a bad ground all the bulbs would be affected, but I am far from knowing electrical issues.
On a side note, anyone know of a good soldering person here in WA state? I have CMU out and apart but I am not sure I see any issues. But the battery light jumper wire MOD is not working and the gear indicator will go in and out on occasion. But other than those two issues the digital display works fine.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/Dash_Bulb.jpg
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Thanks Gary, I see now why I missed it, I didn't see the whole Members Vendor thread.
DOH!
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There were some items that used to be in the classified section that I thought SkyDoc was selling that I don't see anymore.
I am looking for the needle shim mod that was sold as a kit. I thought at one point I could get the diaphrams and needles all assembled so it was a quick and easy plug and play mod.
If anyone knows where I can get a kit like this, please post here as I would like to order these parts before I have carbs synced.
Thank you,
Bob
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I have the hitch I pulled off my '85. Not sure if it will fit your '89 but let me know.
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Thanks guys, sounds like an easy enough fix. Back out I go.
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Well on of my biggest fears of owning an old motorcycle has come true. I have a melting wire connection. I am hoping this is or can be an easy fix.
This is the Left side of the bike. As you can see from the picture its is melting the plug and attached wires. from what I have been able to see the lower connection of the plug goes down to some kind of vented box mounted behind the rear foot peg and above the exhaust pipe. The upper connection loops up and then down with a group of wires that shoot into the case going forward of the bike. The wires are only hot and smooking when motor is running. I tested with key on and it was cool, tested with key on and run switch on and it was cool.
I am keeping my fingers crossed that this is going to be an easy and fix.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/IMG00085.jpg
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I changed the oil and filter last spring and used yamalube I think it was called. It was what the dealer recommended. I read lots of controversy over motor oil on these forums and just decided to ask the shop that had been taking care of the bike for the past 86k miles what they used.
I have a friend helping me with some of the repairs and he read about doing something with the exhaust tips and what you see is the results. I was not happy but nothing I could do about it either. My will to just ride out weighed the looks and sound of ruined exhaust this last summer. I always thought that having the larger opening on the right side was causing some imbalance of back pressure and that is why the HD muffler MOD is first on my list.
I know there are two places on the left side that sputter exhaust from the joints. If it is decided that this is not a major mechanical failure going on I will be doing skydoc needle and shim MOD with new diaphragms and getting carbs synced. I will also be changing out plugs. Also on the list of things to do is replacing the diodes of the TCI and relocating.
I like the fact that this is an old bike and I always get compliments while I am out and about. I do like to tinker around but I am not much to major rebuilds or overhauling.
Hey Gary, you mentioned that I should check the temps to see if there was any cylinders not firing, is that the start it up when cold and let it run for 10-20 seconds and shut it down then feel the header pipes test?
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I think some of the noise is valve train related. Mine still has somewhat similar noise when first started, but not quite as pronounced, but may be due to sound recording. It was gone through completely, 6000 miles ago.
Smoke on right bank is much worse than left bank, possible valve stem seals.
How long has it been since valves checked?
Have you done a compression check, probably won't show anything, but would point to valve stem seals for smoking.
Some what of a miss when first started up, while choke engaged. Might as well hear it now, cause your gonna hear it later, Seafoam.
Radiator bypass valve looks to be in wrong position slightly.
Gary
I knew after posting this video you guys would see other things that may be wrong
. Dingy, that is not actual smoke comming out of exhaust. its cold outside and when it gets warmed up like a cold car that goes away.Valves were adjust by P.O less than 5k miles ago. I have the work order from the shop from P.O and he put over $1700 into the bike at 86223 miles and I just turned it 90k before parking for the winter.
As far as Seafoam goes, I am an advid user in my vehicles, lawn & garden equipment as well as the bike. This past summer I ran 1/2 can for every tank of gas for at least 4 tank fulls.
She starts a bit hard when cold and stinky when running and I am pretty sure running a bit rich. I do have plans to do Skydoc's shim mod and new diaphrams and do a carb sync before spring but now if this is actual engine clapping noise and not exhaust I am not sure its worth me sinking money into it. I am not skilled enough nor do I have the tools to rebuild the engine and at this time not a lot of extra cash to toss at it either. I was saving for the few things I thought I could do from reading here on the boards and hoping for another summer of justing riding.
Back on the road again!!!!!
exhaust
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
I just did this same repair over the weekend and I bought all new gaskets for collector and mufflers. I didn't need any of them as mine where all brass and looked good. Let me know if you need these gaskets I would be willing to sell much cheaper than I paid new at dealer.