alwrmcusn
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Posts posted by alwrmcusn
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Ordered master cylinder ...if that doesn't work I'll check into purchasing a surplus Navy anchor. A retired swabbie should be able to get a pretty good deal on one! (smile)
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Re-bled the brakes again this afternoon while the original wheels were off to install the new wheels. DEFINITELY easier to get to the rear brake calipers with the wheels off. However, re-bleeding did NOT fix the problem. I still need to about 3 outta 4 times braking do a quick pump on the rear brakes. I'm hearing that a new master cylinder might be a fix.
Here's the trike with the new Metegi FF7 wheels installed with new Nexen tires also. The old OEM wheels and tires that were part of the Hannigan installation are now for sale if anyone needs them. The tires are still in pretty fair shape and should get another years wear!
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So that is roughly the size of a Venture/Harley/Honda saddle bag turned on one end??
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I tried finding a dealer who had one to look at. No luck! I wanted to see their luggage capacity. What can you actually put in the space(s). Do you have any photos of the luggage space, what will fit inside? Hannah and I like the looks of the Slingshot but if it's a "one day " ride that would not be for us.
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May be a week or two or three before I get them mounted. Busy time of year. But I sure want them done before the Louisville STAR B Q.
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There is only one dumb question:
it is......"Was it good for you?"
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John at Hannigan gave me the specs I needed and a link to wheelpros.com. I filled in the info and came up with four choices (if I remember correctly it was four). The Metegi FF7 in black were the ones I thought would look best on my 2009 RSV.
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Ok thanks to all who replied, this site is worth the $$, love it. I have ordered two new wheels and when they arrive my friend Mike and I will do the re-bleed and replace the wheels with the new ones.
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Would both of those options be likely to happen suddenly, overnight? I mean no warning, no subtle change, just suddenly!!
Edited addition:
My Hannigan kit has been a terrific product and ride and their customer service is truly excellent, so I'm not faulting Hannigan....I'm just asking for possible causes and/or solutions. Does the trike use the OEM Yamaha master cylinder or was that replaced with a different unit when it was "triked"? If it is the master cylinder (I'll re-bleed the brakes first to eliminate that possibility) then I would need a new master cylinder of course.
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Yes we did bleed the lines. The odd thing is the brakes worked as they should for about two months. It was suddenly yesterday that the problem commenced. We can re-bleed and see if that works. Mike suggested that the pads might not have seated properly?? Myself, I ain't a mechanical person and these things all sound perfectly logical to me.
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I have a 2009 RSV Hannigan trike supposedly with the upgraded brakes.
Recently (about 2-3 months ago) I replaced the rear brake pads and replaced the brake fluid at the same time.
It made a big difference in braking of course and I've had no problems until yesterday.
On my way to meet friends to go ride the Dragon I noticed that the brake pedal would bottom out but when released and pressed again the brakes felt and worked normally. If the brakes were used again within a few seconds they would still feel and work as they should. But if not used for several minutes they would have to be "pumped" again.
When I got to my friends house we checked the brake fluid and it is full as it should be. That indicates no leaks.
Any ideas or suggestions on what the problem may be?
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I live and ride in east Tennessee and those roads seem to be covered here, but also consider (if you have time) a ride down to Helen, Georgia. Really nice ride and the little town attracts LOTS of bikes/bikers/cars.
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I removed the OEM tank bib and also the fairing eyebrows. I wanted a cleaner smoother look. I use a small magnetic tank back on trips. I also cancelled my cell phone, so I have no need for a place to carry one. The key goes in the ignition when riding and my pocket when not riding. KISS is how I view things.
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Oh great, now it's gonna be my fault if comms go down and you have to revert to passenger to driver helmet morse code! (smile)
p.s. You should post a couple of photo's of that RSV, looks nice.
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We have the SMH10 Sena's. Bought thru AAFES (Cycle Gear). We usually try AAFES first, price may not always be the lowest but the no tax/free shipping frequently makes up for it. We are also using them on modular helmets with the chin bar mikes instead of the boom mikes. I may at some point try the boom mikes to see if there is a difference in voice quality.
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Radioman (see my avatar picture), I believe it is now Information Technician (combo RM and DP).
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Do I have to choose? (smile). I think both work equally well, but if I have to pick I'd give Sena the nod by the narrowest of margins. It just seems to activate the various options quicker.
Being able to move the units from helmet to helmet would be terrific! I do not know of any easy way to do that unless you purchase the mounting portion of the kits for each helmet. A small iPod type unit that could be worn in a shirt/jacket or arm band would be a solution. Perhaps with earbuds or maybe a simple 3.5 mm plug to the helmet speakers.
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I have Scalarider on one set of helmets and ours work very well. I also have Sena on another set of helmets and they work well also. I tried uClear and they did not work well with Hannahs hearing aids. We prefer the Bluetooth communicators because the go with the helmets not the bikes and I don't have to worry about crossing the quarterdeck with the cables still attached (smile).
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Correct on the "How close is the dealer". My dealer (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Volunteer-Cycles-and-Trikes-LLC/169698339712547) did my conversion and made a small error that I discovered on the way home. The distance is about 80 miles for me. I did some overnight research on this website, quickly found the answer and took the trike back the next day. Randy had the fix done literally in about 5 minutes. A good dealer is like a good friend...keepem close no matter how far they may be (smile).
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I have my 2009 RSV Hannigan kit for just over 3 years. I really should have done it a year sooner. Hannah and I both love it. I would (just my opinion) consider doing a clutch upgrade as I did. You'll save a few bucks by not buying rear tires every year. I personally don't think the reverse kit is cost effective. Simply do not park nose first downhill!! On level ground the trike paddle-walks about as easily as if it were a two wheeler. Do get both the aux gas tank and the Steer Lite option. The running boards look nice but you can save a chunk of $$ by leaving them off. I don't miss the parking brake, I always leave it in 1st gear. The Hannigan kit also provides a bit more storage space than the two saddle bags. Sell the replaced parts for a enough money to take a week or two vacation. I will say this about the trike kit. It took me a week or so to get used to riding it. All the things I had learned in 50+ years of two wheeling...many of them no longer apply. First and scariest for me was not rolling over in the corners. It took a while to get used to thinking I was going off the other side in a corner! (smile). Once I got used to its cornering I can pretty much hang in there with my two wheeled friends. Some of them even think I might want to slow it down a touch in some of the corners!
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Personal experience with that problem!!
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Went to Lowes and bought a Kobalt flexible shaft nut driver. Without removing or even loosening the fairing lowers I removed the top and bottom bolts on the air filter housing. Used a Philips screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the rubber hose to filter box. Pulled the housing off and removed the screws holding the two halves together. The filters were remarkably clean! No need to wash or replace them. There is a small rubber hose that is apparently not attached to anything but the end of it does go through a metal loop on the filter box. Putting the filter housing back together was a simple reversal of procedures. The entire operation took perhaps 15-20 minutes. I really do not understand why anyone would need to remove the lowers.
Thanks djh3 for confirming what I thought was needed for the removal!!
(No photos needed (smile))
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Right, I saw the link, but I was looking for photos of the specifics nuts/bolts/screws to remove. I want to make sure I am doing it correctly. I believe I can do it with what I have read. Thanks for the replies.
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Does anyone have SPECIFIC info, preferably with photos, of what is required to check/clean/replace the air filters on a 2nd Gen Venture (2009)? I am NOT mechanically gifted but it looks as though there are two bolts to remove, one on top and one on the bottom, along with the adjustable ring thing that attaches to the intake. It also looks like I would need a flexible shaft socket driver.
Hannigan rear brake problem
in Trike & Sidecar Talk
Posted
Carbon One, are you going to be at the Louisville, KY STAR B Q next month?