LilBeaver
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Posts posted by LilBeaver
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Well the Venture is a total loss. Time for a new bike. I stripped some accessories off the bime that I am going to sell. If anyone is interested in any of these before I list on eBay let me know. I will be selling the chrome trunk rack, chrome saddle bag top rails, brake light bar and a leather tank bra with two pouches.Also have a full cover, a Carb tune and the trunk bag with a rain cover.
Sorry to hear about your bike but super glad to hear that you are okay!! Yikes
I too had a rear blow out a few years ago - something I hope to never repeat.
I am interested in the tank bra and possibly the trunk rack and carb tune. Could you PM me the details and what you are looking to get out of them?
For the tank bra - is it one that simply replaces the OEM one as a small-ish strip down the center or is it the big one that covers a large portion of the lower tank (between the rider's legs)?
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32 LED Cluster:
$53 including shipping (looks like the price went up since I bought mine...)
http://www.bikerhiway.com/radiantz-led-tail-light-for-yamaha-road-star-and-vstar-p-176.html
Another source - including the 100LED cluster
http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm
These may not be the cheapest suppliers but they are both the same brand (Radientz) of light. Anyways. Have fun!
The 15" Light bar is one like this:
http://www.marinenutz.com/products/15-SLIMLINE-ID-LIGHT-BAR-RED-LED.html
It is a standard item for camper trailers. I picked mine up for something like 10 or 15 bucks at a local truck stop or maybe it was a camper or trailer store. Either way I have seen them in plenty of places. Handy that it lines up perfectly with the helmet locks.
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I put a 32 LED cluster in my rear tail lamp housing (Plug and play). Made a world of difference for rear visibility. As a bonus it was less than 50 bucks too. No drilling, no nothing. Just simple plug it into the standard socket.
The other easy and inexpensive addition I made was a 15" LED lightbar under the trunk. This was a super easy install and again, no drilling needed. Just mounted between the helmet locks in the existing holes in the helmet locks and less than $1.00 worth of bolts, nuts and lockwashers.
I have a picture on here somewhere... I'll look for it then update my post.
Since you've got a 'new' 2011 RSV, did you also get the iPod and adapter with yours? If not, you should have (or a CD player).
Here it is:
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=493502&postcount=25
Note the bike on the left (Silverdeer) has a 100 LED cluster.
I have not added a 'wing'/spoiler or trunk rack to my bike because I don't really want to put holes in my trunk nor fork out the money for one...
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If I were able to go to the International shindig, I would be happy to meet up with you. I might still end up making the tail end of it, so if I do you might have a riding companion for the return trip - at least part of it.
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This might sound like a dumb question, BUT it is a common mistake. When you set your bike up for storage by using a fuel stabilizer of some sort, did you put it in the tank and ride around a little bit before you shut it down? Or did you just dump it in the tank and turn the bike off (or even just let it run for a few minutes)?
It may be that you did not get a decent stabilizer mixture into the carbs even though you put it in the tank.
Regardless, I agree with he above comments - sounds like a stuck float issue.
Note that an easy way to drain the carbs, for whatever, is to use the carb drain screws on the carbs themselves. They are 5.5mm hex heads (if I remember correctly). Just make sure the petcock is in the OFF position and you have some sort of drain line hooked up to the bottom of the bowls.
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+1 to them. I have ordered a few parts from them from time to time and the couple times that I contacted them with questions about the parts or my order they were quite helpful. On top of that (for a while anyways) their prices were terrific too.
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Now thats just silly. The rider is absolutely not in any way responsible, any more than a car driver would be. It is the responsibility of the following motorist to be able to stop safely.
From a legal standpoint this is absolutely true. From a practical standpoint I sort of agree with straycatt.
I won't go as far as to say that it was 100% avoidable because it did happen awfully quickly and I have no idea what the traffic was like in the other lanes. For me, the absolute first thing I do in ANY braking situation is take a peek in those mirrors - even as I am starting to apply the brakes, it is just as important to watch your backside as well as your other sides too. I have avoided a handful of 'rear endings' by being able to swerve out of the way and then come to a complete stop. Now when I say look behind I mean EVERYWHERE behind, not just directly behind - this gives one the ability and opportunity to determine if they can duck into another lane or not.
That being said, I also make an effort to never drive in the center lane of a 3 lane road, try to avoid being stopped in traffic and make a point of being very close to the lane divider on either side of the lane as to aid in the 'quick escape' as necessary.
All that said, sure this rider could have done a few things differently. Unfortunately, he did not. I think the helmet cam in a situation like that is quite handy. I am impressed at his just walking away at the end there when the lady goes 'are you okay'. Maybe he was taking his helmet off, I don't know. I do know that I would have to walk away for a minute or two - IF I was able to because I know I would be boiling.
Remember folks, at fault or not - WE are the ones that have to deal with whatever injuries come out of the crash. WE are ultimately responsible for our own safety.
Ride safe everyone.
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Last year a friend (still is) hit my right side saddle bag on my 2004 white venture r/s; I bought another one on this site and had it painted. Now this one has spider cracks and one bad crack at the rear. It has not been hit; don't know the problem but need another right side saddle bag. Anyone out there have one at a good price?
'Spider cracks' occur from an impact that flexes the plastic. The flex in the plastic creates the small cracks on the surface which then [eventually] show up in the paint. Depending on where the cracks are and what pattern they are in (I would need to see a picture to know for sure) it could also occur as a result of the bag not being perfectly lined up when the bolts were tightened down thereby causing some strain on the plastic itself.
I believe there is a complete saddlebag set for sale in our classifieds too - someone triked their bike. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3592&title=hard-bags&cat=7 Looks like a new member.
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My only regret about the backrest is that I waited so freaking long to get one!
My back thanks it every time I get on and ride.
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Sorry to hear this Larry. Prayers and thoughts out to you, your family and close friends.
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I am so glad that everyone was ok, NOW you can sleep........
Brian
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I have. It works out alright. On the RSV it was pretty difficult to find a decent place that I didn't have to worry about the 'package' interfering with any of the parts (ie radiator fan) or falling out. I ended up making 4 different smaller packages with a bit of meat, potatoes, and carrots and sticking them on top of the block next to the plug wires in that little 'nest'. I wrapped my stuff with several layers of Aluminum foil to try to keep it from leaking. No leaks for me
I have also tried in front of the motor behind the radiator but that got tricky because of the radiator fan. I was never real happy with how it sat up there and feared it falling into the fan then having a 'roast shower' or worse yet, a problem with my fan. I tried a few other places and I think the alternative that worked okay involved attaching the foil packages to the dog bones. I did loose one that time, but the heat did work out okay.
Best of luck to you and happy eating!
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I will definitely be working... Story of my life for the last couple of mon... er... years.
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+1 to calling the Local PD. Just use the non-emergency number.
I sure hope everything is okay...
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Yep you are right, the trunk wont fit on the Tour deluxe....
so I saw this picture a long time ago (when you had posted that yamaha had it up on the custom site, or something like that) and, at the time, thought to my self - "Okay so that midnight RSV is in front of Miller Park, that is pretty cool"...
I did have a notion that there was something unique about that picture...
Looks good!!
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I keep decent first aid kit in my trunk all the time. When on long rides or trips I make sure that it is easily accessible. The folks that I ride with that know how to use one know where it is. I do not have a sticker to identify that I have one. I guess my biggest concern with that would be someone trying to help themselves to it while my bike is parked somewhere.
As for the CPR mask, I actually keep one attached to my keys. It very similar to this: http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&cat=&style=RO832
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There are three copies of Ride Like a Pro (RLAP) IV or V DVD's that are free for anybody who wants it for FREE so long as they agree to:
1) NOT copy it and 2) Pass it along for FREE to the next person after a short viewing session ie. ~1 week. The sender pays the postage, NOT the recipient, so no money changes hands.
NOTE: By requesting to be added to the list you are agreeing to the above simple rules. If you have a problem with this please do not request to be put on the list.
To request to be added or removed to/from the list: Simply post in this thread that you would like to be added or removed and I will take care of it upon my next visit to the thread.
Please DO NOT PM me your request to be added or removed as you will only be put on the list if you post to this thread - this way there is a clear and unambiguous record of where you ought to go on the list.
If you have requested to be added and you were not: Please forgive my mistake and simply let me know (a PM for this is fine) and I will add you to the list in the order of which the requests were put in with respect to the content in the thread.
One of kitesquid's initial requests were to post something you learned from the video; let's try to keep doing that
Some of Kitesquid's original text:
"... I am not connected with RLAP, I just want my fellow bikers to have a long and healthy life on two wheels and anyway that we all can learn to ride safely is a good thing!!!!!!
By the way, if you are tired of waiting, or would like to purchase your own copy please click HERE to order and be sure to ask for your Venture Rider Forum member discount. IIRC it saves you $5. BTW this DVD is worth every penny!!!!!!!..."
The List:
People who originally, freely gave away their copy of RLAP IV or V (Thanks a lot you guys!!):
KiteSquid, Friesman1, jburrell
:clap2:Info on Location of DVDs:
Copy #1:
Bubber -> Jmorrison -> Burgymon --> ?????
Last known 28/Nov/09: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=411893&postcount=289
SENT to BurgyMon
Copy #2:
This one has the path:
Lilbeaver -> VegasVic -> TimGray --> Kregerdoodle -> Reed --> Indianriverjack --> 1sttenor --> Freebird --> Condor -->
Copy #3 (Thanks to the time and effort put in by 'Semi-Retired')
Spear -> Spankym (Craig M. - Buffalo) [rec. 28/apr/09]; instructed to send to r12guy on 7/May/09; reported as Sent to r12guy 18/May/2009 --> 19/May/09 instructed r12guy to send copy to "Annie in Rockinham, Perth Australia"
No further info. Either "R12guy" or "Annie_In rockingham, Perth Austrailia" has/had this
*** 27/Apr/11: E-mail sent to R12guy, awaiting response.
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Canada
camos – Saanichton, BC
Mover - Stratford, Ontario
Ottawa () - Ottawa, Ontario
Trader - North of Kingston, Ontario
United States
fixit3546 in Mechanicsburg (Bentonia) MS
RandyR in Dahlonega GA
GaThumper in Cleveland GA
Blackjack in Snellville GA
Black Owl in Apple Valley MN
eusa1 in Dixon IL
Larry M – Pullman WA
MidlifeVenture – Twinsburg, OH
67mini67 – Cheney, WA
Hunter_1500 – Ferrisburgh, VT
Little Bob – Steven’s Point, WI
camos – Saanichton, BC
Motorcycle Mike – Lawrenceville, GA
midnite – Mc Kenzie, TN (last visit 24/March/11: Still supporting member)
Donde - Rockport, TX (Last visit 26/Dec/10 - Still supporting member)
nbowersock - North Ft. Worth, TX
Travelin Man (formerly: Crazy_Frog) - McRae, GA
SylWoody - Talladega, AL
Gdlover - Newton, IA
Dave3 - Fayetteville, GA
Slick97spirit (Ken) - Jackson, MO
TopV (Joe) - Fall River, MA
Mover - Stratford, Ontario
Scooter45 (Jim) - Redwood Falls, MN
Nemo (Owen) - Council Bluffs, IA
The Black Pearl (Anthony) - Traverse City, MI
Short-haul (Daniel) - River Oaks, TX
T hole (John) - North Liberty, IA
Ottawa (Ryan) - Ottawa, Ontario
in flagrante () - Rocket City, AL (Trial Member?)
ccpeso (Dennis) - South Lyon, MI
rjalamo/1JoeRanger (Ray) - Destin, FL
Alybyzee (Alby) - Manahawkin, NJ
For the efficient passage of the video how please do the following:
1) Upon receipt of the video, post that you have received it.
2) Initiate communication with the next person on the list (which ought to be included with the video and I will do my best to keep the list updated on here too) **Maybe contact the next 2 or 3 at a time, with the understanding that the list order will be maintained, just in case the first one does not respond
3) Communication with the next person on the list ought to be done via e-mail, PM or telephone call (based on whatever you are comfortable with and what is available in the person's profile).
4) Let us allow 1 week for the person next on the list to respond (which is why initiating the communication immediately would be advised or contacting 2 or 3 at a time would be efficient).
5) If no response, move to the next person on the list.
6) When a response is confirmed, post the results so we know where they are at.
7) After viewing the video, post something you learned from it (as per KiteSquid's request)
8) Post WHEN sent to the next person - also report the screen-name of the individual sent to.
MOST IMPORTANTLY, as always:
9) Ride safe
**** Sample message to next person ****:
Howdy:
I have received a copy of "Ride Like a Pro" and you are the next on the list to receive it. (According to the list on: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24973&page=22 )
Please respond as to whether or not you are still interested in viewing the video.
I will wait one week before I contact the next person on the list. If someone else commits to it before you do (after the 1 week time has expired) then you will not lose your place on the list, but may not get the video from me ~depending on whether I still have it or not. Just post in the thread (linked to above) that you would still like to view it and you can be next in line to get a copy.
If you do want it, send me the address that you would like it sent to and I will send it first class mail after I am finished with it. If you do not want it, please post on the original thread so that you name can be removed from the list.
Thanks a lot,
- YOUR NAME HERE
****END sample message****
Thanks ya'll
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I'm pretty sure it was someone in Texas but could be wrong there.
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That seems like a perfectly reasonable guess...
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Hmmmm. I guess I fit into this quite nicely considering that my research is basically asking "Y" things do what they do and how they do it...
Although my addition is the ONLY one of those that really apply to me.
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I've volunteered to work the big Triathlon this weekend at Buffalo Springs Lake....( http://www.buffalospringslaketriathlon.com/home.php )
..but a friend of mine was in a motorcycle wreck and I may want to visit her instead....things are iffy at this point.
Sorry to hear about your friend. I hope that all is okay.
If you do end up down here in Lubbock and want to meet up, you've got my number.
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I'm with flb....except you waited till I paid to have mine done!
If you arrange something in the borger/amarillo zone, we could make that trip to the biker havens I have mentioned and do that the same weekend as the valvejob.
Mine is now click-free....but I could still learn a thing or two watching it get done and maybe holding a beer....
Yeah, I should have mentioned something a long time ago (sorry about that); although I don't know for sure when I knew you were going to pay to get yours done... Not to mention, I didn't know (until last week) when I would [actually] have some time around home long enough to plan it out and actually git-r-done.
Actually having an extra set of hands available to pseudo-photo-document the process (provided you can take pictures and hold your beer at the same time - which *ahem* I have reason to believe that you can) may be helpful as well. At least I think I would like some pictures for my own 'records' regarding the process as it goes.
As for boogieing on out afterwords, that sounds good too. Let's stay tuned and see if anyone else is interested then we can firm up the location as well.
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Rick,
If nothing else happens to accomodate you, I can loan you the tool and shim kit. Depending on when you plan it, I may be able to help. We're tied up for the next few weeks.
Ponch
hi jerrygood to see you posting. if rick want's to host this at you place i'll come. but then i'll come anyway, would pefere it to be cooler myself
reguards
don c.
I would be interested ! Iam at about 25k on mine and would be glad to help and learn somethings.Depending on the date, I would also like to attend.Sounds good.
RockHound, were you up for checking yours at the same time or were you more interested in seeing how mine goes first?
At any rate, I say we start discussing what date(s) work and then firm up a time to git-r-done.
My preference is to get this done within the next couple of weeks. I would like to make it happen before 11/July. I realize that is pretty soon and with the July 4th shenanigans stuck in the middle there, but my schedule is pretty flexible at this point (for once).
How about you two - anything that definitely works or does not work?
I will not be available from 12-25/July as I will be out of town. I was hoping to try to get this done before 11/July as to be able to try to catch the tail end of the International shindig up in Cody which will then be followed by a very scenic route home.
By the way Forrest, nothing says you can't still come. Nevermind that whole being a few states away thing...
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Of course you wait until I move away...
Thoughtful, eh?
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So the new regulator that I bought did not fix the problem. Its 2:29 still holding at the same voltage as before.
So I did some probing around and found the following, perhaps someone can give me some feedback.
I unplugged the regulator and checked the leads coming from the stator while the bike was running...
White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~32 VAC
White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~32 VAC
White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~2.1 VAC (this looks suspicious to me)
I agree, that last one is somewhat suspect.
While the bike was off...
White wire 1 to white wire 2 = 0.3 ohms
White wire 1 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms
White wire 2 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms
(seems to be in spec)
Agreed, within spec. provided your meter is sensitive enough to give a true reading in that range.
As mentioned above, I'd check the resistance with respect to ground and look for any variation.
While bike was off and battery removed...
Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Black lead from battery = inf. Ohms (no connection): This is fine
Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Red lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open): This is fine - provided that by 'open' you mean no measured resistance.
Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to Black lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open) This is fine - Provided that by 'open' you mean no measured resistance
Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 1 = 0.3 ohms This seems fine
Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 2 = 0.3 ohms This seems fine
Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 3 = 0.3 ohms This seems fine
(Is negative suppose to be connected to the stator? The wiring diagram does not elude to this.) The wiring diagram indicates that it ought to be grounded. One way to do that is to run to the negative terminal of the battery which then goes to the screw behind the horn/near the clutch cover.
Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to a Screw on clutch plate cover = 0 Ohms
(Is the negative of the battery suppost to be connected to ground? Hence the screw on the clutch plate cover) Absolutely.
So I'm not sure if this all looks normal, but it seems that the stator is connected to ground which is connected to negative. Could this explain why there is a fluctuating AC voltage running across my battery terminals when running? Do you think that the stator might be shot due to the low AC reading across wires 2 and 3? I'm thinking that my regulator and regulator wiring is fine right now, but maybe there is a stator problem?
A stator problem does seem to be a reasonable conclusion, however I need to think a little more about why the AC voltage would read the way you have measured it but the resistance in the coils were all the same. Outside of an internal short to ground, I am not reasonably convinced of anything else that could cause that behavior.
If I get some time later and someone else doesn't chime in, I'll go fire my bike up and repeat the measurement to see what I end up with.
I'm open to suggestions...
My further responses are in Red
:clap2:
2000 rsv
in Watering Hole
Posted
You are correct in that the main radio amp is responsible for all of the audio on the bike and it is quite unlikely (but still possible) that the radio and CB would work abut the intercom does not. A few additional (simple) things to check would be if you got audio out of the headset from the radio. If you do not get audio through the headsets from the radio then there is an issue with the cable between the radio amp and the headset (possibly just disconnected in the fairing or under the passenger seat) or a problem with the radio amp itself.
Easy checks are done as follows:
with the radio or CB ON press the middle (select) button a few times until you see either SP or HS come up on the display. When you see SP (provided the audio is coming out of the fairing speakers) press the UP or DOWN arrows to select HC as this will route the audio to the headsets. Now check to see if you can hear the radio through the headset
Another check would be for the intercom system itself. The intercom system has its own and INDEPENDENT volume control. Using the middle 'select' button again, cycle through the menu until you see the 'IC' prompt. It should be 'IC' followed by a number (based on your current description, I suspect that number is '0'. Using the scroll wheel OR the UP arrow turn the 'IC' up to say 10 or 15 and try the intercom again.
I sure hope it is something simple like this!
If not and the bike is in good shape otherwise, maybe you can still work it out; keep in mind that the radio amps used go for ~300 USD and new for ~1200 USD.