sargergp
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Posts posted by sargergp
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updated info edited to original post.
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I'm spending a little time tinkering and tuning while I'm recovering from a knee surgery and discovered something really strange. While testing my coils according to the manual you unplug the primary wires and test the primary first and then then test the secondary. My discovery is that unless I reconnect the primary wires before testing the secondary I get an open circuit reading on the secondary. I've never seen this before on any coil. The two windings should be completely separate from each other. When tested with the primary wires connected I get the proper reading on all secondaries. I talked to a technician at the dealership where I bought it and he thinks I'm right but he is going to call their techline in the morning and get back with me on it.
I'm just wondering if anyone on here has experience with these coils and whether I'm right or not. If I'm right I have some bad coils.
OK everyone, here's the latest from the factory rep. The manual doesn't mention that on the Venture the secondary winding of the coil doesn't get it's ground from the coil frame, instead it gets it from the negative terminal which means the primary wires, or at least the negative wire from the harness must be connected to get a proper reading on the secondary winding. I just got the return phone call from the dealership technician. He said he was happy to check on this for me because it would be helpful to him as well.
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I need another helmet. I have a big head but am thinking about one of those flip up full face helmets. I wonder if it is too hot; I live in North Carolina and it gets pretty warm in the summer. Also, price is an issue since I'm retired and still some of money is going to the stimulus package, so I don't have a lot of extra. I ride a 2004 Venture Royal Star.
Looking for advice here. Thanks.
I know what you mean about a big head, I wear a 7 3/4 hat. I live in Texas and wear open face in the summer and full face/modular flip up in the cooler months. Both of mine are Fulmers and I love them. It's the only brand I have been able to find either that were big enough in the 2XL to be comfortable. But you can only purchase them in person at a dealer. They don't sell mail order or on the internet at all. My modular cost me about $150 and the open face cost me $80. You can however view them on the Fulmer web site.
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I have one coming, If I don't screw it up whemn I modify it, it will be all that I need. If I do screw it up, I will be back to ask for another one.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
I'll let you know how it turned out....... ya I know I gotta have pictures. LOL:banana:
Bubber
aka Steve
Hey Steve, I have the black one off my '05 that I replace with the chrome one. It's in perfect condition. If you need another one for any reason, let me know you can have if you'll cover the shipping cost.
Roy
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I have been looking around for a Pillow top seat for my 2005 RSV. I have the corbin seat that was on my bike when I got it but since my hip replacement it just isn't comfortable for long rides anymore.
If anyone one has one and would like to sell it please drop me a line.
Thanks
Steve
Steve, if you haven't found one yet, I just got a notice this evening from my ebay adds list that someone has a front seat and rear seat (pillow top) for sale separately on ebay for $89 each. Good luck
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Before you go spend a bunch at retail try this site http://leatherup.com/ I have 2 or thier jackets and a pr of chaps from there. I love all 3 items a nd they were a lot cheaper than I expected. I saved a lot.
:wow:I second this suggestion. I just bought a pair of lined chaps from leatherup.com a couple of months ago. The fit is true as long as you follow their suggestion to buy one size larger than you normally wear in pants. They are excellent quality and much cheaper than I found anywhere in the stealerships.
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Where do you get the Carbtune Pro. I got one of those Motionpro POS...IT seemed to work fine but then I could not get a reading above idle... IT would try to suck all the fluid out. Ah...yes the Restricters are installed in the hoses.
I looked on the web...seems you order them from overseas somewhere...
Where is the best and cheapest place to get a Carbtune Pro?
I ordered it direct from Morgan in Belfast, Ireland. The transaction was the best I've ever done with anyone. I paid online with credit card and it was in my mailbox nine days later. Ordered it with the case to store everything in and at the current exchange rate with the conversion fee it cost me a total of $95. That's about equal to what it would cost to have the sync done one time at a dealer.
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Well, for those of you who were watching this thread before, heres a new post. The carb sync worked great and with the new tires to get rid of the tar snake/line seam wiggles the wife is finally happy with the ride again. But as some of you have seen in my post in the tech forum, it appears that I still have problems, most likely either floats or coil or both. It just don't purr like a V4 should (and I wear hearing aids) and the mileage seems to be worse than before. Well, I'm too hard headed to give up on it and too tight to take it to the stealer until I know for certain if it's warranty or not. So I'll just keep testing as time allows and I'll keep you guys posted on the progress. Has anyone had good luck using the colortune system? I'm not new to mechanics, but I'm still a little wet behind the ears on motorcycles.
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#1 is rear left, #2 is front left, #3 is right rear and #4 is front right Cylinder
Thanks Squeeze. I had the evens and odds grouped, just got the engine backwards. #2 & #4 were slow with #4 being the slowest. I've just gotta find more time to finish my tests.
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Ok, I went out and started her up and checked the exhaust warm up. I found out that both front cylinders were slower to warm up than the rears and the right front (#3 if memory serves me right) was slowest of all. After about 3 minutes of idling I could also detect a small difference in the rythym of the pipes from one side to the other. I guess from here I will proceed with checking the plugs and testing the coils. If I find a considerable diffence in the coil on #3 they are covered by the warranty aren't they?
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There are two relatively simple things you can do to see if all plugs are firing without any special equipment or technical testing.
First, withing about 30 seconds of starting the engine, briefly touch the header pipe near each exhaust valve (the real pipe, not the heat shield). You will be able to tell instantly if one of them is not heating up like the others.
If that test shows all seem to be firing, but you still suspect some type of intermittent coil that isn't pulling its weight, pull the plugs and read them. None of them should be wet at all, and if they are all the same color, they are all firing the same (and the fuel mixture is the same). If one or two look significantly different, then you can do a bit more research on possible causes.
Goose
Thanks Goose, I don't why I didn't think of that already. Just gotten too used to working with fuel injection and diesels at work on the job I guess. I used to use that method to check older cars all the time. I'll give it a try.
I did find your post about float levels not being equal on these bikes. Is it fairly common to see that problem?
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Hey sargergp, what Bike are you talking about ?
It's a '05 midnight RSV.
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Ok guys,
I've searched and searched threads on this site and have gotten some good ideas (like setting the floats from V7Goose), but one thing I suspect and haven't been able to find any info on is testing procedures for the coils. The problem is after syncing the carbs my gas mileage went down and it still seems like the cylinders aren't all firing evenly. It's got new plugs in it (original NGK#) and all vacuum lines and plugs are good. I also run a can of Sea Foam regularly. Can anyone help with more suggestions?
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I had a pair of those idiots pass me like that a couple of years ago on 360 going north out of Arlington with a Mustang Cobra chasing them. About a mile down the road the Cobra was pulled over by a trooper, but the bikes were long gone.
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Don't know yet about her opinion, she's getting over a strained muscle so it'll be a few days before she tries it out.
So is it alot smoother for your wife? Hope it works out for her. Craig -
Hello everybody. Well I followed your advice about the vibration problem in the passenger seat. I bought the Morgan Carbtune Pro and I used it today. As you can see in the photos below, my #1&2 carbs were way off from each other as well as from #3&4 which were almost even. I also discovered the two vaccum caps were cracked and replaced them.
Goose, I did what you said about working with them at about 1k and up around highway rpms. This carbtune works like a gem. It was well worth the $95 U.S. that it cost me. And that included Air shipment from Ireland which took only 9 days from the day I placed the order.
The bike runs and feels totally different now. It starts easier, idles smoother, which had to be lowered considerably from where it had been, and now my RK pipes sound a lot smoother on deceleration than they did before. Hopefully I will also see some mileage improvement like others have after synchronizing their carbs. This bike had 24k on it when I bought it last August and I doubt it had ever even been checked. It has 28k on it now and I hadn't even thought about it until you good folks on this site put me onto it. I'll be checking it every oil change from now on as it will only take about 20 minutes to do it now that I'm familiar with the location of everything involved.
Thanks again for all your help.
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Doesn't the switch in the fairing do the same thing. I leave mine on all the time but if I want to turn the passing lights off I push the switch in the fairing and the passing lights go off. Why would you need both switches?
What switch in the fairing YamaDuck? I have the Yamaha lights on mine and I haven't found any switches for them accept the one in the left side light housing.
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The chamfering is a very valid fix for brake sqeal in any application. I had serious sqeal problems with my '05 RSVM when I bought it. I learned this trick years ago from an EIS company tech when I ran an automotive machine shop. Just put em in a vise and take a grinder to em, or use a bench grinder, whatever you have. Put a 45 degree taper on the leading edge (or both if you like to rotate your pads periodically) and you shouldn't have any more sqeal. I did it to mine, as I do to all my auto brake pads and I've never had one squeal after the modification.
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Not hard to do real easy with a Car tune.
Just for info the speedo's are out about 7% so at 70 you are only running at about 65 mph. Also I assume it was in 5th. Go ahead and drop it to 4th and see if the vibration is different or disappears.
At that speed in 5th it is not lugging but is close.
Brad
Yeah, I checked the speed with my TomTom and with the cruise set on 70 the TomTom showed I was only doing 63.
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Thanks everyone for the info. I went ahead last night and ordered the carbtune pro kit. I am anxious now to get it and see how much difference it makes. I bought this bike in August with 24k on it and now have about 27k. I doubt from what I know of the previous owner that the carbs have ever been synced so I'm hoping they're way off and that will solve all of my problem since I have already replaced the plugs and just put a new set of Avon Venom tires on.
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Thanks guys,
I may just see what I can get local and make my own.
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The BEST sync tool is a four tube Mercury manometer, but you wont find one for sale as the EPA does not want you to ship Mercury.
I purchased one recently, but the company has pulled them from their website.....
Doesn't the Morgan from the UK have mercury?
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Ok, I'm sold on the idea and convinced that I'm going to buy my own synchronizer. So which one gets the most votes? Morgan or Motion Pro. That's the only four carb units I've found.
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As everyone suggest check out the carbs and make sure you have about 45psi in the rear shock. You can get the pillion pad and back rest pillow top on ebay for less than $200 and your wife will appreciate it. You can then sell you seat set. I replaced all mine at the suffestion of PONCH and he was right it is a lot smoother. As an alternative try sheepskin or padding for her pillion and back rest.but I wholly recommend the pillow tops.
Just my 2c worth.
Thanks J, you don't happen to have specific ebay info for those pieces do you? I haven't had a lot of luck finding venture specific stuff like that on ebay.
:wow:
![:900[1]:](https://www.venturerider.org/forum/uploads/emoticons/1395237540_9001.gif.d4814adf468872d78024cbb6849b4b0f.gif)
Coil questions
in Watering Hole
Posted
Yes, I have the manual and I printed the test pages for the coils. That is where I was referring to regarding the lack of information about reconnecting the primary wires before testing the secondary. It just says to test the secondary from the ignition wire to the frame of the coil. But as my updated post says, the factory rep says this was a change in the coil for the Venture that was left out of the manual. That's why it confused me.