Tysons87venture
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Posts posted by Tysons87venture
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Bike looks great, be really careful with the plastics they will be really fragile when removing.
For compression test I bought a gauge that screws into where the spark plug comes out of, make sure you have oil in engine while doing which you can see from sight glass
Manual says remove all plugs and hold throttle open while trying to start the motor until the gauge in what ever cylinder/spark plug hole you choose reading hits its highest point, write down your max readings of every cylinder and compare
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4 hours ago, sgarrett said:
Hello, my name is Steve and I am the second owner of a 2007 RSTD. I also ride a V Strom 650.
Nice bike!!
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I agree, see if you can get it to fire without taking carbs off right away, in my case I needed to remove as I couldnt get it to fire even with a new battery and spraying seafoam up through the drain and top of carb. it was a pain to remove but learned some tricks along the way. I used starter fluid and it definitely tried to start. If I did it over again i would have done compression test first as saddlebum had said
There is some great tech articles that will really help you.
Also could pull seat off, 2 bolts above rear saddle covers and there is a fuel sender unit which you can carefully remove and see what he fuel looks like and if there is any rust. I used a hand fuel pump and pumped out the old fuel. I also changed my fuel filter which i believe you have to remove rear saddle bag
Hope you have fun with your project and love the bike as much as I do, theres lots of great help here and surely you will be up out enjoying the road one day
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Only thing I noticed when I pulled apart is the cheap rubber parts that I got with the cheap rebuilt set I bought. I did real poor job at bench syncing and couldnt even get 1 cylinder to show up on gauge, I played for about 40 minutes and got it all dialed in.
Thanks to another discussion that someone else had brought up in the threads on this site, so thankful for this site and everyone associated with it. I've learned so much and finally should be able to ride the bike safely. Hoping this season is nice and will look into valves and valve covers this winter, hopefully the cleaners and soak was enough to help increase compression for now
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Thanks for all the knowledge you guys have shared!! I am much closer then I was and you guys have helped me so much, I forgot to do another compression check so I will be doing that soon
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Soaked over night and ran today for 20 minutes, replaced oil and filter, should I have waited longer? Bike seems to be running good aside from the carbs being out of whack, I dialed in the ir fuel screws to lean it out, I think the 2-1/2 turns I did originally might have been 5 turns out depending whether we could 180 degrees as 1 turn or 360
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Ok so I cant get a reading on cylinder 1 for carb sync. I still have abit of splatter out of my exhaust pipes but not nearly as bad as I closed my air fuel mix screws on the 3 of 4 cars that I can adjust.
Does anyone know what would cause me not to be able to get a reading on the 1 cylinder?
I have verified it is not the carbtune
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What a great trick patch!! Lots of vacuum damn near sucked my hand in lol
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Thanks for that Rick, very helpful. I believe my issues might be related to the poor quality re build set I bought, the rubber gasket around the jet block seems very soft, in the pictures I could see that the gasket looks alot stiffer and a better fit than what I'm dealing with, the float heights look good, the needle valve does seem loose in the seat though and I'm not sure that's normal but that's the only way I can get it set to correct height
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I wonder if you could clean yours up and get it working right again, is the valve stuck?
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I just tore apart 1200 and yes it had a metal rounded end vs the rubber that the 1300 has
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Slightly different I believe, I know the bodies are not the same but the internal parts could be the same, I will go through my parts and let you know if someone doesnt give you answer sooner
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Just now, saddlebum said:
In my case I managed to get a burr on the outer brass seat that the needle seat goes into and it caused the needle to stick
Ok the theory is kind of making sense abit more to me now, I can see now that I'd have much less fuel before the valve closes, it was fitting loosely in seat so I'm guessing is was just allowing extra fuel through, now it's just a matter if its enough fuel to keep her running, thanks again for your help!
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Is this what you were talking about saddlebum? The valve seat that you had leaking causing the flooding? I'm hoping to build up a tester tomorrow to see if I have the correct fuel level now
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That might have it thanks alot saddlebum, feels like its sitting tighter in housing now with tab bent more, valve seems to still be working
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I think that could be my issue then, if I bend the fang this should help hold it up I'm thinking?
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When starting carb upright the valves fall down about 1-2 mm
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Got carbs apart and dont really know what I'm looking for
Only thing I can see is the float needle valve
Is it suppose to move? Like the whole unit not just the spot that blocks off the fuel? Is there a certain way this needs to be installed?
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Yes northern ontario Is beautiful, I hope to someday get to do that ride on a bike, I've driven 4 times now in car. The carbs are now pulled so the learning begins, hoping to get this right this time and get some better mileage
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Thank you, in your experience would a float that is set to high cause fuel to come out at the carb holders where the plugs are? And would it cause fuel to spit out exhaust pipe? I really dont have a good understanding of how these carbs work and I think that's half my problem when working on them
I think I am going to do as per manual and hook up a plastic hose to drain and see where level is at and then pull carb off again, not looking forward to it.
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I am in ontario, miss alberta riding, would love to do a cross country tour out there If I could get bike running good enough, I did my electrical apprenticeship through sait and really enjoyed my years out there, my bro still lives there so I try to visit a few weeks a year but covid has really changed those plans
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Good to know, they were pretty wet and was definitely fuel, so looks like I need to pull carbs again and hopefully do it right this time
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Brilliant, I will have to see if I can build something like this
87 venture royale clutch safety switch?
in Watering Hole
Posted
Hey guys was wondering if this bike a clutch safety switch, I'm guessing not? Or mine is not working?
Stalled at stop from running to lean during tuning and had to put in neutral to get going vs just being able to pull clutch in and go, does this seem right?