jlh3rd
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Posts posted by jlh3rd
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midrsv
there is a writeup in the tech. section here by "goose" who installed mechanical gauges on his bike.....if you look at that , you will see that a mechanical oil pressure gauge requires you to run a small line from the pressure point to the gauge. this line has oil in it....the mechanical water temp gauge requires a metal, flexible sensing tube to be run from the temp sensor to the gauge....all of this would have to be routed to the fairing
i thought i'd be smart and use electrical gauges that would just require an 18 gauge wire to be run from the sensors to the gauges, and avoid ,what i thought , would be rigging problems.
well, guess what....the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge is huge...it would not fit down in the space where you have to tap in to an oil pressure point....and there is no other place to tap into oil pressure ( it's down by your right foot, close to the exhaust pipe)..I even purchased another sender that was smaller, got it to fit, and the gauge didn't work because the sender and gauge have to have the same ohm rating ( money wasted)...soooo...i had to get adapters at advance auto, and a hydraulic hose ( 5/16")
and run that up to my fairing. rig a grounding wire to the sender, and tie wrap that in the fairing......the whole idea was to avoid having an oil source that could leak in the fairing. and now, instead of having a little 1/8" nylon tube, i've got a huge 5/16" rubber hose that i had to route up there.....
the electric water temp. was actually better than running the flexible, mechanical tube, but not that much better
the electrical gauges cost about $80....the mechanical are around $40
you can get white/black face gauges in mechanical...electrical only came in black face....from my searching
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i just did my buckeye also........what voltage are you showing.....i was lucky, didn't have to take my battery out
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the only solution i thought of would be to place the gauges in a triangle arrangement...that would solve the width problem.....but then you gotta make your own faceplate....and you might start running into a height problem....
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the only solution i thought of would be to place the gauges in a triangle arrangement...that would solve the width problem.....but then you gotta make your own faceplate....and you might start running into a height problem....
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i don't think they will..........the width of the opening just allowed the three 11/2" i used........you would have to widen the the opening.....also, when you remove the cassette, you will see that it was mounted to a white box that also has and houses the idiot lights on either side of the cassette.........so, in widening the slot, you'd screw up the placement for these lights......the height is no problem
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i don't think they will..........the width of the opening just allowed the three 11/2" i used........you would have to widen the the opening.....also, when you remove the cassette, you will see that it was mounted to a white box that also has and houses the idiot lights on either side of the cassette.........so, in widening the slot, you'd screw up the placement for these lights......the height is no problem
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i know that egauges is a good place to deal with......i got bushings and adapters there................also checkout discount hydraulic hose for other styles of adapters
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that would work......but they make these little, decorative, snap, button caps that fit over screw/bolt heads......i'm gonna try that....i may not have enough room, and i may have to get my dremel out flatten that slightly raised edge of the face plate.............and i'll have to glue it on.....this is the stuff you learn after the fact.........if i woulda made the hole a little higher, it would be a non issue
if you wanted you could just use an old rca plug and just plug that in.......
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that would work......but they make these little, decorative, snap, button caps that fit over screw/bolt heads......i'm gonna try that....i may not have enough room, and i may have to get my dremel out flatten that slightly raised edge of the face plate.............and i'll have to glue it on.....this is the stuff you learn after the fact.........if i woulda made the hole a little higher, it would be a non issue
if you wanted you could just use an old rca plug and just plug that in.......
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hotrod
i ordered the gauges from autozone as they are electrical and don't stock those....they keep the mechanical ones in stock.....they're also $80 as compared to the mechanical which are around $40.............knowing what i know now, i woulda just used mechanical
about the exposed mp3 jack.........you're right....and i've just thought of a solution.....and if it works, i'll publish another pic.......
believe me, i've already thought of improvements, and doing some things differently
the best ideal change would be for someone to mill a faceplate out of a block of aluminum, round the edges and corners, polish and then seal it with a clear......by using aluminum, you could make the faceplate even thinner than mine, a lot thinner, which would really give the gauges a recessed , stock look.....Tony, who i got my spacer from, could probably do this easily.
i looked at the koso gauges..and they are neat.....and though i didn't see prices, i assumed that they are expensive and i would have to modify the supplied faceplate that came with the other gauges and then hope that the modification worked....i only had one shot.........and the idea was to do this as inexpensive as possible......
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hotrod
i ordered the gauges from autozone as they are electrical and don't stock those....they keep the mechanical ones in stock.....they're also $80 as compared to the mechanical which are around $40.............knowing what i know now, i woulda just used mechanical
about the exposed mp3 jack.........you're right....and i've just thought of a solution.....and if it works, i'll publish another pic.......
believe me, i've already thought of improvements, and doing some things differently
the best ideal change would be for someone to mill a faceplate out of a block of aluminum, round the edges and corners, polish and then seal it with a clear......by using aluminum, you could make the faceplate even thinner than mine, a lot thinner, which would really give the gauges a recessed , stock look.....Tony, who i got my spacer from, could probably do this easily.
i looked at the koso gauges..and they are neat.....and though i didn't see prices, i assumed that they are expensive and i would have to modify the supplied faceplate that came with the other gauges and then hope that the modification worked....i only had one shot.........and the idea was to do this as inexpensive as possible......
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if you do some searches...i believe kurykan (sp?) has a led voltage meter.....a 2 inch gauge and one other 11/2 inch gauge will fit in the opening but you'd probably have to build your own faceplate......those three 11/2 gauges just made it into the width of the opening using the supplied faceplate............
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if you do some searches...i believe kurykan (sp?) has a led voltage meter.....a 2 inch gauge and one other 11/2 inch gauge will fit in the opening but you'd probably have to build your own faceplate......those three 11/2 gauges just made it into the width of the opening using the supplied faceplate............
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there's been some discusssion here on that.........i think it boils down to : an ammeter is a better indicator because it actually shows if a discharge is occuring....but it is a lot harder to wire into a system......a volt meter is just a lot easier to wire and at least will show if your charging system is maintaining the correct voltage..
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there's been some discusssion here on that.........i think it boils down to : an ammeter is a better indicator because it actually shows if a discharge is occuring....but it is a lot harder to wire into a system......a volt meter is just a lot easier to wire and at least will show if your charging system is maintaining the correct voltage..
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kite squid
yeh..you're right....the only way water would get in would be to run behind the black box ( faceplate)....but you'd have to be really forcing it in that direction. i don't feel water is a problem
someone asked about oil pressure.....on my first and only run...the pressure jumped to 60 psi upon starting the bike cold..it stayed at 60 even at idle....once the water temp ( man, it's nice being able to say that ! ) reached the 180 to 190 range the pressure would run about 5 to 8 psi at idle and go to about 50 at speed.....the volt meter ran about 13.8
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kite squid
yeh..you're right....the only way water would get in would be to run behind the black box ( faceplate)....but you'd have to be really forcing it in that direction. i don't feel water is a problem
someone asked about oil pressure.....on my first and only run...the pressure jumped to 60 psi upon starting the bike cold..it stayed at 60 even at idle....once the water temp ( man, it's nice being able to say that ! ) reached the 180 to 190 range the pressure would run about 5 to 8 psi at idle and go to about 50 at speed.....the volt meter ran about 13.8
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az1103
thats grass........
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az1103
thats grass........
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well, they're not marine gauges....just what you'd put in a car...advance ,autozone etc.........but how wet could they get being inside a plastic box inside a fairing, plus , i saw no exposed openings on the gauges, plus my bike doesn't get drenched.
step by step inst. will take a while......finding the time for me to do it
the biggest fabrication i had to do was ....three half circles had to be machined in the plastic lip in the opening......cutting the gauge bracket ( the black box ) in half lengthwise.......and then slightly curving the end of the box to match the curve of the dash........
someone mentioned a tach......actually, i looked at that and a two inch gauge will fit..with one more 11/2 inch gauge..but you would have to build a "box to hold it.....i thought about enlarging one hole one the end but that leads to other problems to fix
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well, they're not marine gauges....just what you'd put in a car...advance ,autozone etc.........but how wet could they get being inside a plastic box inside a fairing, plus , i saw no exposed openings on the gauges, plus my bike doesn't get drenched.
step by step inst. will take a while......finding the time for me to do it
the biggest fabrication i had to do was ....three half circles had to be machined in the plastic lip in the opening......cutting the gauge bracket ( the black box ) in half lengthwise.......and then slightly curving the end of the box to match the curve of the dash........
someone mentioned a tach......actually, i looked at that and a two inch gauge will fit..with one more 11/2 inch gauge..but you would have to build a "box to hold it.....i thought about enlarging one hole one the end but that leads to other problems to fix
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i hate to make a promise and not keep it....but i'll try to do a write up ...sometime.....
a lot of the credit goes to goose as he had a write up for the gauges he installed
you can get these at an auto parts store....i ordered mine because i wanted electrical, not mechanical...and they cost double and only available in these colors and from this co. only.............i'd install mechanical knowing what i know now..........and white gauges would look better, which you can get in white, if they are mechanical...these are the 11/2 " size.... ..........
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i hate to make a promise and not keep it....but i'll try to do a write up ...sometime.....
a lot of the credit goes to goose as he had a write up for the gauges he installed
you can get these at an auto parts store....i ordered mine because i wanted electrical, not mechanical...and they cost double and only available in these colors and from this co. only.............i'd install mechanical knowing what i know now..........and white gauges would look better, which you can get in white, if they are mechanical...these are the 11/2 " size.... ..........
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removed cassette, added gauges......done
in Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical
Posted
midrsv
there is a writeup in the tech. section here by "goose" who installed mechanical gauges on his bike.....if you look at that , you will see that a mechanical oil pressure gauge requires you to run a small line from the pressure point to the gauge. this line has oil in it....the mechanical water temp gauge requires a metal, flexible sensing tube to be run from the temp sensor to the gauge....all of this would have to be routed to the fairing
i thought i'd be smart and use electrical gauges that would just require an 18 gauge wire to be run from the sensors to the gauges, and avoid ,what i thought , would be rigging problems.
well, guess what....the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge is huge...it would not fit down in the space where you have to tap in to an oil pressure point....and there is no other place to tap into oil pressure ( it's down by your right foot, close to the exhaust pipe)..I even purchased another sender that was smaller, got it to fit, and the gauge didn't work because the sender and gauge have to have the same ohm rating ( money wasted)...soooo...i had to get adapters at advance auto, and a hydraulic hose ( 5/16")
and run that up to my fairing. rig a grounding wire to the sender, and tie wrap that in the fairing......the whole idea was to avoid having an oil source that could leak in the fairing. and now, instead of having a little 1/8" nylon tube, i've got a huge 5/16" rubber hose that i had to route up there.....
the electric water temp. was actually better than running the flexible, mechanical tube, but not that much better
the electrical gauges cost about $80....the mechanical are around $40
you can get white/black face gauges in mechanical...electrical only came in black face....from my searching